LSPV nightmare solved, kustom mount w/pics
- Thread starter Tenzig Norgay
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
This is my solution. I made mine adjustable to give more braking to the rear. The fronts still lock up first. This is an old trick from the now defunct AOR, or Advanced Off Road in Grand Junction. It always worked well for them, especially when you are descending down rock drops and such, to give more brake distribution front to rear in those conditions:
I like.
Yer basically turning a load sensing proportioning valve into a manual valve without affecting anything else.
Yer basically turning a load sensing proportioning valve into a manual valve without affecting anything else.
I tried the MAF bracket with the same result. It's hits the left rear UCA.
Did anyone ever come up with a bracket that raises the LSPV rod without interferring with other suspension items?
See post #23, there are two nuts on the LSPV. I just loosened those and moved the body of the LSPV down some. It seems to help.
I tried that but one of the bolts broke and I wasn't able to move the unit. Was hoping to adjust on the other end. My truck is lifted a little over 3 inches.
On my old '85 4Runner, I just cut off the rod and zip-tied the lever where I wanted it. (Sorry, no pics... That Runner is long gone.) I'm planning on doing the same thing with my 80, but I've been too lazy.
- Thread starter
- #30
Finally took some more pics
1st... Vehicle unloaded. The rod is about 1/16-1/8 inch away from the UCA. With spare tire, and 300 lbs(my springs are rated for the extra weight), the rod moves further away, but not a whole lot.
2nd pic.... DS wheel stuffed. The rod moves further away from the UCA
3rd pic...DS wheel at droop, with as much articulation as my driveway could provide. The rod contacts the UCA
I have noticed that the rod pivots down when it contacts the UCA, relieving the strain. I've wheeled it a few times, and it hasn't broken yet. I think I'll just keep driving it as is till it breaks, if ever, the braking/handleing improvement is worth it. I may try to modify it in the future so there will be no contact at droop, and I can still always remove my mount if I go on any longer real wheeling trips. Its an imperfect solution, but i have bigger fish to fry
1st... Vehicle unloaded. The rod is about 1/16-1/8 inch away from the UCA. With spare tire, and 300 lbs(my springs are rated for the extra weight), the rod moves further away, but not a whole lot.
2nd pic.... DS wheel stuffed. The rod moves further away from the UCA
3rd pic...DS wheel at droop, with as much articulation as my driveway could provide. The rod contacts the UCA
I have noticed that the rod pivots down when it contacts the UCA, relieving the strain. I've wheeled it a few times, and it hasn't broken yet. I think I'll just keep driving it as is till it breaks, if ever, the braking/handleing improvement is worth it. I may try to modify it in the future so there will be no contact at droop, and I can still always remove my mount if I go on any longer real wheeling trips. Its an imperfect solution, but i have bigger fish to fry
guys,i have a question for stock rigs. mine isn't lifted with a lifting kit. i think i got lift from slightly bigger-than-stock tires. do i need to adjust the height on the lspv even if the height gain is a minimal 1-2"? for this kind of height gain, do i adjust the height from the lspv itself or the actuator mounted on the differential? is it correct that for a lift, we should either adjust down the lspv itself or adjust up the actuator on the differential housing?
yes, i think that sounds logical. the height gain on my 80 was from the tires alone. the distance between the axle and chassis didn't change. i was just wondering why brakes are not quite firm especially when going downhill. makes me think that load shift fools the lspv into thinking that rig is running light. thanks 96r50 and guys
jvazquez53
El Tractor
- Joined
- May 6, 2007
- Threads
- 352
- Messages
- 3,413
- Location
- San Juan Puerto Rico
- Website
- www.facebook.com
What will happen if the valve gets removed? Older Cruisers didn't have one?
What will happen if the valve gets removed? Older Cruisers didn't have one?
If you have rear disk brakes, the rear brakes could overpower the front and introduce over-steer.
If you have rear drums, it's very difficult for the drums to overpower disk, meaning it's not necessary to have an LSPV. That's not true with disks all around.
jvazquez53
El Tractor
- Joined
- May 6, 2007
- Threads
- 352
- Messages
- 3,413
- Location
- San Juan Puerto Rico
- Website
- www.facebook.com
Since I have rear drums, I might consider getting rid of the valve, I like simplicity!
Since I have rear drums, I might consider getting rid of the valve, I like simplicity!
It shouldn't be a problem, but I'd get a manual pressure valve. They make some that have the right number of lines in and out designed specifically to replace the sort of setup that comes OEM.
That way, you can dial in the pressure to the rear exactly. You probably will have it wide open or nearly so, but at least then you'd have the capability of dialing it down should you find that you need to do so.
After you change it, I would take it to a large gravel parking lot, and see what happens in a panic stop (both straight and when turning). Since gravel will let you slide quite easily, you'll see what happens in a worse case scenario, and if there is any over steer introduced.
Your description saves me time... I just need to find the 1/4x1" sheet metal and make my separator. THANK YOU
