LSPV nightmare solved, kustom mount w/pics

[Tenzig Norgay]

As some of you may recall, I was having trouble moving my LSPV down to adjust for my lift. Instead, I fabricated a new mount for the valves armature at the rear end. I wanted it beefy to limit flex, so its made from 1/4"x1" wide steel, the 3/8" holes are spaced exactly 1" apart.

From measurements taken before and after the lift, I gained exactly 3 inches with the OME 863s in the rear. Therefore, I made the second set of holes exactly 3 inches higher than the first. Its bolted up with stainless hardware(takes twice as long to rust), and has two coats of primer and two of rust guard black, I went all out.

Didn't think I would see a difference in an unloaded vehicle but hold on to your iced mocha ladies, she stops like a porsch, kinda. Braking is definitly improved, there is less nose dive, way more control while laying on the binders, the back end stays in the back and doesn't feel like it wants to come around front.

This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but it feels like the truck rolls easier. The first time I engaged reverse to pull out of the garage I rolled backwards, which I've never done before. The truck accelerates faster, and i'm watching the milage to see if it improves. Is it possible that the front brakes were so biased they were ever so slightly dragging? Sounds crazy I know, but it feels different, I bet my track times will improve.

 

[Chaldaean]

Huh, that's pretty cool (and a timely possible solution for my LSPV issues).

So, you just raise the LSVP by the exact amount that the lift gained you? That makes sense.

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

This fix could be adapted to accompany any lift, there is no flex when I grab the mount and pull, and I imagine it would be as stiff if it were longer for a taller lift. I thought this solution was easier and stronger than choping off the threaded adjusting rod and welding on a longer one in order to return the armature to its stock location. I can still use the threaded adjustment rod to move the armature upward a little more to adjust for the stiffer OME springs.

I soaked the mounting bolts for about a week before i removed them, and they came right off. I always use an impact wrench when removing bolts like these, and since they are short they came right out without snaping. I broke one of the bolts when trying to move the LSPV body, and even after that i still couldn't get the valve to move. This fix was easy, and took only about an hour to fab the mount and paint, and about 15 minutes to install the next day when the fast drying paint was cured.

I notice while mounting the armature, that when i lifted it an extra inch from its new location I could really feel the piston in the valve body work. When I load the truck, it will sink a little, raising the arm and actuating the piston likes its supposed to do. I highly recommend this fix for anyone who couldn't move their LSPV after doing a lift. The increase in braking performance is well worth the time.

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

Good job! Looks like I'll be stealing your design.

TK

 

[Lugboot]

Ingeniously simple. I like it. my LSPV body is rusted fast--this might be a good solution for me.

 

[Atoyot1031]

Good on ya!

See it wasn't that bad after all, and you got off cheap!

 

[jonheld]

I may be old and crusty with a failing memory here...

IIRC when you raise the linkage on the rear end it will make contact with the left upper trailing arm under extreme articulation. I had done this exact mod many years ago and after a wheeling trip there was a significant bend in the linkage and a scuff mark on the trailing arm.

I may be remebering this wrong, but have a look anyway.

 

[toyman317]

Determining what happens under extreme articulation would be real helpful. I have the same problem, heavy OME and broke a bolt on the body trying to move it. I was able to raise the adjuster up at the axel about .5 inches. Helped a little bit but still don't have very good brakes. I need to do this too if it holds up offroad. I wheel mine a fair amount. Thanks for the thread.

 

[Lugboot]

How would this be any different (interference-wise) than using Landtank's method of extending the adjuster bolt with a threaded sleeve?

Is it a question of how far you can extend it (braket or bolt) before the interference happens?

 

[alkaline747trio]

Wait till you get the nuts to chop out the lspv system, then you'll know how good your brakes can be.

 

[Atoyot1031]

Wait till you get the nuts to chop out the lspv system, then you'll know how good your brakes can be.

Did you go with a manual proportioning valve? I put one on my minitruck, it was AWESOME, but you can't use it with ABS, can you?

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Just put 400 lbs. in the back and stuffed the tire as far as I could with what was available, the front yard. I did this to both rear tires and from different angles, and still had 3 or 4 inches from the top of the adjuster nut to the frame crossmember. It looks like if you were to stuff the rear end up higher, the armature would clear the frame crossmember to the front anyways, and if not I'm sure you could bend/angle/adjust the armature forward enough to clear it.

Did this test both loaded and unloaded, and had better results when I did it loaded. The closest I could get the adjustment rod to the frame crossmember was when I had weight in the back and it sat on level ground, even then with some serious highway bounce it looks like everything will clear. Just to be on the safe side for all you hardcore wheelers, you could angle the mounting slightly forward.

I hear a lot of people with the larger lifts just nix their LSPV because it doesn't work as well. Maybe this fix, with some quick release dohicky fashioned into it for wheeling time would be the next killer LSPV upgrade

 

[alkaline747trio]

With my rear drums I deemed a valve of any sort useless. I also removed the return line to the front brakes to completely delete the valve from the system. Keeping my brakes separate has also proved itself useful as I didn't lose much fluid when I ripped a braided SS off the front while wheeling. Rear brakes kept full fluid and no air got in them.

 

[joedm]

I installed a 2" lift myself and the place I order the kit from sent me a bracket that looks almost exactly like this, and is fitted exactly the same way.

I didn't get any instructions, but after looking at the setup underneath for 5 mins i figured it out.

You are right in that it rolls better, corners better, stops better.

 

[Beowulf]

I may be old and crusty with a failing memory here...

No, your memory is fine.

I bought the MAF LSPV extender and it does exactly the same thing for a 4" increase in lift. After I did the Slee 4" springs I installed the MAF extender and the rod was hitting the left rear upper control arm on moderate stuff. I pulled it off and deemed the MAF extender as a poorly thought out solution.

I would like the OP to post pics of the rod as it goes between the extender and the LSPV showing the clearance to the UCA. I don't see how I could possibly have installed the thing incorrectly and it was obvious that the rod and arm would hit.

-B-

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

AAAAAHHHHH. Your completely right. I've been so focused on the clearance of the threaded rod/adjustment nut portion attached to the rear end that I overlooked the rod that goes from the LSPV to said assembly. Whoever came up with this fix was a moron

I have a few ideas on how to fix it, its almost hitting just sitting there. Thinking I could do some bending/moving of parts with a little whoopty curve in the rod right below the upper contol arm. This seems like the easiest solution for now. The braking is so much better, whatever I do I'm going to make sure the LSPV rod angle remains the same, and the fix is capable of being wheeled.

I probably fixed it yesterday when checking it out on the hill in the front yard, guess I'll have to take it for a ride, check out braking, then repeat the yard test to see when/where/and how much I hit. This isn't over with yet, I'll take pix of the fix.

 

[Beowulf]

Thinking I could do some bending/moving of parts with a little whoopty curve in the rod right below the upper contol arm. This seems like the easiest solution for now.

How do you bend that rod and still keep the same distance? I thought about that but soon realized there was no way to keep everything in the same relative positions. If you figure it out then please post pictures and detailed instructions.

-B-

 

[SoCal_80]

There is always this from Man-a-fre:

$8.39 ....

MAF 4+Plus 80 Series Suspension Drop Bracket

 

[Beowulf]

There is always this from Man-a-fre

Did you read post #15? The LSPV rod will hit the left rear UCA with that MAF bracket and a 4" lift.

-B-

 

[SoCal_80]

Hummm...Worked for me w/o issues and the same rear setup.