LSPV Delete? Or part replacement? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Threads
4
Messages
39
Location
Macon, GA
My LSPV on my 1994 FJ80 is leaking and needs replacing. The part is real pricey from Toyota. My question is 2-part:

1) Is a delete or bypass safe?

2) This is the OEM part:

Is this cheaper part similar enough?


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Interesting.

P/N 47910-60090 is showing prices at the following:
Partsouq: $111.02
McGeorge Toyota: $178.85
Olathe Toyota: $204.70
Norwalk Toyota: $272.93
 
Liability forces me to say to replace it. I deleted mine as well as the ABS in my 1997. YMMV.
 
^What he said^
 
@BILT4ME has a good list.

I recently paid $110 ish for 47910-60090 and went the replacement route. Brakes feel great after a lot of other work (all new hoses, calipers, master cylinder, pads, rotors, lots of fluid flushes) and I'm glad to have the stock setup in place which should be good for another 20+ years or longer if I flush the fluid every year or two.

My logic on delete vs replace was that the two options seem roughly break even in terms of costs/time. You'll spend a bit more $ for the lspv hardware and a bit more time on the delete short term (assuming the delete involves a bit of line bending and parts sourcing) but it's not enough of a difference either way to matter in my opinion. In the long run not having an lspv to fail is a benefit but given how long the 1st one lasted with poor maintenance and the slow leak failure mode I'm not that worried about it for my use. In any case, I prefer to go stock/original unless there is a really compelling reason not to as I'm not an engineer and stock is better if I ever sell. If I had larger than stock tires/lift and/or braking problems the delete may start to win out for my purposes. At this point I can lock up the tires (front) on dry pavement and I get decent rear brake pad wear so I've stopped chasing brake problems and have no issue with my new lspv.
 
I am not stirring the pot, I am not poking a bear, I am not inciting a riot, I just want to be helpful.

That being said, my understanding is all four wheels should lock up at full brake without ABS engaged (not just the front). The LSPV is supposed to help lock all four wheels at the same time by balancing the pressure to the cylinders based on load in the rear. 70/30 split for braking (average I pulled out of my head) should be managed by the LSPV so no matter how much stuff is crammed in the rear you still get even braking? I believe that's why a lot of brake deletes use a proportioning valve. @jpoole , Have you verified the adjustment on your lspv for proper operation?
 
Ditch the LSPV and enjoy consistent, well-balanced, strong braking.*

*mandatory busload of nuns disclaimer :flipoff2:
 
@Comet

No problem, I totally get where you are coming from. In a nutshell, I've done what I felt comfortable with to ensure that my brakes are safe for me and my family. I glossed over a lot of what I've done to dial in the brakes on my rig though it's been an approach focused on replacing/restoring the system vs. altering it from factory besides lspv adjustments. Testing brakes is valuable in my opinion including straight braking on dry surfaces to braking while turning on mixed surfaces etc. I've been restoring autos/brake systems for decades and I've driven vehicles with too heavy front or rear bias to the point where it was obvious which helps as I evaluate/test.

The bar that I've worked towards with my 80 is that it's safe for others to hop in and drive. That means it needs to be as consistent with the handling of a modern sedan as possible since my wife may get in and drive it harder than I would, in spite of my warnings whenever she drives it. Brakes are important but so are shocks, tire size, ride height/lift, suspension bushings, steering component wear, bearing slack, etc. My 80 was not safe to drive without close attention when I got it and the brakes were far from the most dangerous issue.

Now that my brakes are baselined and good/close I do plan to use pressure gauges to verify pressures and dial in lspv adjustment per the FSM. I think the gauge pressure testing will be a great step but I personally prefer actual road/brake testing with various loads on various surfaces since pressure alone doesn't compensate for other variables/issues that may be present in the system. It can get complicated if you think about all of the variables and if you have a mix of parts in and out of specification.

All of that said I totally get where others are coming from with their modded, non-lspv systems and I'm sure that they can brake as good or better than ones with the lspv still in place for their rigs, etc.

My main contributions on this topic are probably that time/costs don't seem like a good basis for this decision and that good braking is possible with the lspv in place.
 

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