Lower Ball Joints (1 Viewer)

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Toy did both up and low arms under ext warr due to loose joints. Were they? Who knows. They gave me a lot of stuff free under that warr.
 
I've never heard of a bad ball joint on a LC, but anything can happen. Guy in my club just had his Taco's lower joint fail and the tire came off, ended up causing quite a bit of damage and totalling the truck. Another friend just had his replaced by the dealersup on the Tundra campaign. I know the front suspension on the Tundra and LC is totally different, but it makes you wonder.


We have replaced at least 3 sets on different trucks due to excessive play and load noises.
 
Oh, excellent!

They say they are a bit loose. I believe it. My arms have about 70K a hard miles on them.

They also say my 2-yr old and 15K mile 3rd steering rack is the culprit of the popping noise. We are working on a FREE replacement. 15K is unacceptable at any age. Friggin' shxx!

Aha, but that can't be. 100's are so much better than 80's :D
 
Sorry...for now the LC seems to be OK, nothing catastrophic so I'm concentrating on getting my Jeep J20 fixed up for sale so that I can work on my Jeep Grand Wagoneer with unimog axles on the trails.

Greg
 
I am about to attempt this job.

Anyone have any ideas how I can get that C-clip off the original lower ball joint. I am thinking of using a HUGE open end wrench and try pushing it out (with a big hammer). If I use a brass drift, it will just spin. Is there a special tool out there to get a C-clip off?

Ideas? :confused:

I am also hoping that I don't have to get it pressed in to install it back up. As it is it looks like I have to take the whole thing apart (brakes - hub - bearings - spindle - I can move the CV out of the way) I am also hoping that I don't have to undo the torsion bars. I have limiting straps on the lower a-arm so its not going anywhere but I will also put a jackstand underneath the a-arm as a safety precaution.

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? ....
 
as for DIY removal & installation:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices


I am about to attempt this job.

I am also hoping that I don't have to get it pressed in to install it back up. As it is it looks like I have to take the whole thing apart (brakes - hub - bearings - spindle - I can move the CV out of the way) I am also hoping that I don't have to undo the torsion bars. I have limiting straps on the lower a-arm so its not going anywhere but I will also put a jackstand underneath the a-arm as a safety precaution.

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? ....
 
I decided to buy the new arms. Reasons:

1. It's assembled so there's no guess work
2. All factory done adds value
3. Fresh arm, so IF there's weakness in the welds from wheeling we get new strong stuff again
4. They will last for years like before which adds value
5. No worries
 
ShottsUZJ100 I decided to buy the new arms. Reasons:

0. I don't know how to work on my truck
1. It's assembled so there's no guess work
2. All factory done adds value
3. Fresh arm, so IF there's weakness in the welds from wheeling we get new strong stuff again
4. They will last for years like before which adds value
5. No worries

I fixed it for you John. :D
 
ShottsUZJ100 I decided to buy the new arms. Reasons:

0. I don't know how to work on my truck
1. It's assembled so there's no guess work
2. All factory done adds value
3. Fresh arm, so IF there's weakness in the welds from wheeling we get new strong stuff again
4. They will last for years like before which adds value
5. No worries

I fixed it for you John. :D

Jealous are ya. ;)
 
Spicer ball joints

We are doing this next week. Let you know how things went. Worst case is that we'll just order new A-arms and return the ball joints. Doing all new shocks, hydrolic flush, boots, etc on it at the same time. 97K and counting on this 2002 LX.

George
 
We are doing this next week. Let you know how things went. Worst case is that we'll just order new A-arms and return the ball joints. Doing all new shocks, hydrolic flush, boots, etc on it at the same time. 97K and counting on this 2002 LX.

George

George! Hope all is well up in Greer!
 
You wont need to pull the cv, the ball joint shaft will angle over on the hole as you remove it enough to come out past the cv as you remove the lower arm.

We pull 4-8 sets of arms out of 100s a month, easy process, as we weld them internally and weld strengtheners on the outside where they break to prevent this happening, as part of our suspension package.

We have done several sets of new arms recently with excessive movement in the ball joints. Here they are $850 ish each side.

I would be interested to cut up the aftermarket ball joint, to ensure they are the same carry/load cap as the factory toyota ones, because if it fails, the whole wheel comes off. :whoops:
 
Hi there.....long time. Been busy with the Porsche project. Front cover of European Auto a few months ago. Almost done.....or never done. Wicked beast with 540WHP using pump 100 octane.

The front differential went out last weekend in Greer. My 99 LX went through three, and this newer, stronger unit lasted almost 100K of fairly hard abuse when offroad. Had to haul it home on a trailer. While in there we decided to just replace everything. The ball joints shouldn't be a big deal. I've got a talented tech helping.....actually I'm not much help time wise.

He and his friend that will be opening up a shop soon here in Tucson. He is a Senior at the U of A Mechanical Engineering school. His friend Jake is a Toyota off road specialist and great welder. Thought this would be a good project for Mike to get his feet wet with the Toyota stuff. He has worked on my Porsche and was a big help with tuning my TEC stand alone management system.

Hope all is well with you and yours.

Leaving for Greer tomorrow for some skiing. Snow is awesome, but VERY DEEP.....stay on the plowed roads....trust me. Deep snow is as hard to winch out of as mud, maybe harder. Especially with a differential clunking. Sad end to an otherwise great day.

George
 
Hi there.....long time. Been busy with the Porsche project. Front cover of European Auto a few months ago. Almost done.....or never done. Wicked beast with 540WHP using pump 100 octane.

The front differential went out last weekend in Greer. My 99 LX went through three, and this newer, stronger unit lasted almost 100K of fairly hard abuse when offroad. Had to haul it home on a trailer. While in there we decided to just replace everything. The ball joints shouldn't be a big deal. I've got a talented tech helping.....actually I'm not much help time wise.

He and his friend that will be opening up a shop soon here in Tucson. He is a Senior at the U of A Mechanical Engineering school. His friend Jake is a Toyota off road specialist and great welder. Thought this would be a good project for Mike to get his feet wet with the Toyota stuff. He has worked on my Porsche and was a big help with tuning my TEC stand alone management system.

Hope all is well with you and yours.

Leaving for Greer tomorrow for some skiing. Snow is awesome, but VERY DEEP.....stay on the plowed roads....trust me. Deep snow is as hard to winch out of as mud, maybe harder. Especially with a differential clunking. Sad end to an otherwise great day.

George

Interesting stuff! Enjoy the slopes.
 

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