Based on what I've been seeing it sounds like I need to change the pump and accumulator, but error code 41 had me curious because that has to do with low/no voltage. Could this be a relay issue maybe? Looking for any thoughts, thanks!
Lost brakes and got ABS codes 41, 52, and 56
- Thread starter RkDubs
- Start date
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2001LC
SILVER Star
It would be best to post the whole DTC (code), not just last two digits, which vehicle and miles..
A low voltage condition, can set off brake/ABS DTC.
A low voltage condition, can set off brake/ABS DTC.
- Thread starter
- #3
I pulled the codes jumping the diagnostic pins so I was under the impression that it was only the two digit codes based on the ABS light flashing. It's a 1998 LC with 177k miles. I tested the alternator and that tested out good.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Very likely booster motor failure. Brought on by corrosion on control wire leads.
Reading this thread, may help you to better understand brake master.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Posting pictures of control wire leads in boot under ABS unit (black box on side of brake master), and reservoir. Will be helpful!
To check if booster motor works/runs. Pump brake pedal 40 times, with IG key off. Then turn IG key on. You should then hear booster motor run. If motor does not run and battery has about 12 volts. It's a 97% chance booster motor has failed.
You can also jump motor with 12 volts, to test if runs. Warring positive and negative must not be reversed.
Based on age, new booster w/ brake master (the whole brake master assemble) will be best. Toyota parts has a sale on now. In the Southeast region of USA.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you so much for the great reply. That's a very comprehensive thread I read through and appreciate the insight. So mine failed while driving. I was about 2 miles from my destination and the brake and abs light came on and I had the constant warning. Drove fine all the way to where I went, brakes were good. When I came back out and started it up, I still had a good pedal, but you had to stand on it to get very little brakes…. Which makes sense that it would be the motor.Very likely booster motor failure. Brought on by corrosion on control wire leads.
Reading this thread, may help you to better understand brake master.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
Posting pictures of control wire leads in boot under ABS unit (black box on side of brake master), and reservoir. Will be helpful!
To check if booster motor works/runs. Pump brake pedal 40 times, with IG key off. Then turn IG key on. You should then hear booster motor run. If motor does not run and battery has about 12 volts. It's a 97% chance booster motor has failed.
You can also jump motor with 12 volts, to test if runs. Warring positive and negative must not be reversed.
Based on age, new booster w/ brake master (the whole brake master assemble) will be best. Toyota parts has a sale on now. In the Southeast region of USA.
I was looking at replacing only the pump and accumulator, but you’re thinking do the master as well? That’s seemingly been good. I replaced all the brake lines last year and my pedal has been great and consistent so I was considering not doing it. Granted, 26 years old and 177k it might be getting tired.
