Looking for used 460. Locker questions

[Hydro556]

Surprisingly didn't find a ton about rear lockers being added to 460s when searching.

I've been looking for the right 460 for few months now.

Wanting to mildly modify it but use it as daily driver to replace the FJ I bought new in 08.

Likely will take the 460 to Moab like we did the FJ and want it to be competent for most trails.

Planning very simple build. Small lift, 33 ATs, and a rear locker. Not a whole lot more.

What are most guys using for a rear locker? ARB? A name I trust, but have never used one.

I guess an upside is you'd then have on board air.

Just curious if this is the type most go with? Or are there better options?

If it matters, I'll likely be buying a 14 or newer and am really trying to find a nice one owner with Driver Support Package.

Thanks

 

[r2m]

I have ARB's on both front and rear. But there are some old ARB's out there probably still on the shelves that are bad.
If you're going to go ARB, you HAVE TO read my post about my experience with ARB: Builds - R2M 2013 GX460 Overland Build
Start on post #99

 

[Hydro556]

Will do thank you for heads up

 

[Ol Yeller]

Ours has the center diff lock, it’s amazing where it will go if you give the traction “brain” time to figure it out.

 

[Hydro556]

Ours has the center diff lock, it’s amazing where it will go if you give the traction “brain” time to figure it out.

They need at least a rear locker. The center locker only splits power 50/50 front to rear.

I assume these trucks have A Trac. That'll help offset the lack of a front locker but I definitely want a rear locker.

 

[Tex68w]

Everything available is listed above. Electric and air both have their benefits but there are some distinct drawbacks to both, available gearing comes into play as well. Eventually I am going to lock both the front and rear when I regear but I have yet to decide on which way I'll go.

 

[Jetboy]

FWIW - it might be worth giving atrac a try before you decide if you need the rear locker.

The current ATRAC is pretty darn good. It's not as good as a locker at the limit, but it's pretty good for most situations.




Also another option for rear locker is to swap a rear 4Runner e-locker axle in if you want an OEM type locker is to do an axle swap. They should be a bolt in swap over axle wise, but you'll have to re-gear at the same time. The 4R rear is 3.73 and the GX is 3.93. I don't remember if the 3.93 can swap over to the 3.73 rear diff. If you're going 4.56 then it doesn't matter because it's easy to find gears. I don't know much about the wiring in the GX and whether any of the loom necessary is in place or not.

After two front ARBs in and out in mine, I ended up reselling warranty replacement 3 and went back to an open front diff in my 15 4Runner. The issue wsa gear noise. They were very noisy on the highway so they didn't work well in my daily driver. I don't think that they used to be this way before they changed how the spider gears are manufactured in around 2017, but I don't know. Maybe I'm just expecting OEM driveline smoothness and that's not realistic? This noise at highway speed was not so enjoyable for me. ARB said that the unit was perfectly normal. ARB customer service was very good about willingness to replace them and discuss my issues. I bought a completely new differential for the second try to make sure it wasn't some issue with my diff or my build and had their shop build the second one. Same results. If it was an adventure truck only - I'd probably have accepted the noise and kept it. So I'm not bashing ARB here - but at least I was under the impression that the ARB would be just like OEM when the diff was open and that's not really the case.

 

[Hydro556]

FWIW - it might be worth giving atrac a try before you decide if you need the rear locker.

The current ATRAC is pretty darn good. It's not as good as a locker at the limit, but it's pretty good for most situations.




Also another option for rear locker is to swap a rear 4Runner e-locker axle in if you want an OEM type locker is to do an axle swap. They should be a bolt in swap over axle wise, but you'll have to re-gear at the same time. The 4R rear is 3.73 and the GX is 3.93. I don't remember if the 3.93 can swap over to the 3.73 rear diff. If you're going 4.56 then it doesn't matter because it's easy to find gears. I don't know much about the wiring in the GX and whether any of the loom necessary is in place or not.

After two front ARBs in and out in mine, I ended up reselling warranty replacement 3 and went back to an open front diff in my 15 4Runner. The issue wsa gear noise. They were very noisy on the highway so they didn't work well in my daily driver. I don't think that they used to be this way before they changed how the spider gears are manufactured in around 2017, but I don't know. Maybe I'm just expecting OEM driveline smoothness and that's not realistic? This noise at highway speed was not so enjoyable for me. ARB said that the unit was perfectly normal. ARB customer service was very good about willingness to replace them and discuss my issues. I bought a completely new differential for the second try to make sure it wasn't some issue with my diff or my build and had their shop build the second one. Same results. If it was an adventure truck only - I'd probably have accepted the noise and kept it. So I'm not bashing ARB here - but at least I was under the impression that the ARB would be just like OEM when the diff was open and that's not really the case.

I agree on the A Trac. I've had it in my 08 FJ since new and have been all over Moab with it. It's a good system.

 

[Tex68w]

FWIW - it might be worth giving atrac a try before you decide if you need the rear locker.

The current ATRAC is pretty darn good. It's not as good as a locker at the limit, but it's pretty good for most situations.




Also another option for rear locker is to swap a rear 4Runner e-locker axle in if you want an OEM type locker is to do an axle swap. They should be a bolt in swap over axle wise, but you'll have to re-gear at the same time. The 4R rear is 3.73 and the GX is 3.93. I don't remember if the 3.93 can swap over to the 3.73 rear diff. If you're going 4.56 then it doesn't matter because it's easy to find gears. I don't know much about the wiring in the GX and whether any of the loom necessary is in place or not.

After two front ARBs in and out in mine, I ended up reselling warranty replacement 3 and went back to an open front diff in my 15 4Runner. The issue wsa gear noise. They were very noisy on the highway so they didn't work well in my daily driver. I don't think that they used to be this way before they changed how the spider gears are manufactured in around 2017, but I don't know. Maybe I'm just expecting OEM driveline smoothness and that's not realistic? This noise at highway speed was not so enjoyable for me. ARB said that the unit was perfectly normal. ARB customer service was very good about willingness to replace them and discuss my issues. I bought a completely new differential for the second try to make sure it wasn't some issue with my diff or my build and had their shop build the second one. Same results. If it was an adventure truck only - I'd probably have accepted the noise and kept it. So I'm not bashing ARB here - but at least I was under the impression that the ARB would be just like OEM when the diff was open and that's not really the case.

That's a bummer. I might consider the electric options more heavily if this is the norm for the ARB units in the 150 series.

 

[Jetboy]

The issue depends on model I think. As I'm thinking about it it probably doesn't effect the GX because all GX models are AWD. The side gear spins full speed in part time 4x4 model front diffs when the passenger side shaft is disconnected and the transfer case is disconnected. So it's probably not an issue in the GX, but would be in the 4Runner, the part time non-USA models of the 150, and the tacoma/tundras/hilux models. It also wouldn't make noise in a rear diff very often for the same reason - in diffs that are being driven, the spider gears would rotate in the carrier together, so the spider gears wouldn't normally be spinning against each other. In a disconnected front diff like the part time models all use now, this is going to be a problem.

I don't know enough about the internals to know if you could just use a die grinder and polish the gear teeth and smooth it out or if it has to do with the cut of the gears. It might be something you could DIY fix. Not sure. If it wasn't such a PITA to pull the diff out and each time I probably would have been more inclined to try more ideas before just going back to an open diff.