Looking for input on tow rig search (1 Viewer)

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I'll have to check the ricer isles at CT and Walmart to see if I can find some chrome in a can to fill in the gaps.

First functional question from a diesel newb: Should I be running a fuel conditioner / additive as a habit? Suggestions on what to use?
 
I put it in my dura max every once in a while but no noticible difference. More difference from keeping my fuel and air filter fresh.
 
Thanks Mike.

I think I'll be taking it to your cousin to safety after I have a good chance to look over it myself and address anything I know will be an issue. Truck is still waiting for me to pick up, yesterday winds between here and Yorkton were 60 gusting to 90, several stretches of highway were closed. Today looks some better, aiming for tomorrow.
 
That was a short-lived honeymoon. It just spit out an idler pulley. That might explain the short bit of rattling I heard bringing it home :lol:
Luckily it happened right in front of the house.
 
That pulley is common and so is the waterpump. Doing more work blows but in long run should keep the grief to a minimum.
 
Wasn't too bad to fix. Figuring out the belt routing was longest part. Water pump is supposed to be fairly new, so I hope not to have that joy soon.
:)
 
meridian said:
The handy belt routing sticker is probably missing.
Click to expand...


PO covered it with tape and wrote down oil change mileage on it. Had a hell of a time trying to scrape it off with my thumbnail at -25. Gave up and searched on my phone after two wrong guesses at routing.


Just filled up from about half a tank. I get 13.3l/100km (22mpg imp I believe) with a fair bit of 4wd driving. That's much better than what my cruiser would get in similar conditions.

Next up, give it a good washing, then start at freeing up the non-op parking brake (which I knew about when I bought it) and trouble shooting the reverse light circuit (which I didn't). Oh yah, and making a super sexy temporary tailgate out of a 2x8 :hillbilly:
 
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You should great summer mileage . You must have some warm up idling in there as well?
 
Chromeo is in getting a new windshield today. Have done little else so far as I don't have the balls to work on it in this weather. ;) Once breakup comes and it's warmer I'll start going over it more.

Anybody have a car hauler they are looking to off-load? :clap:

Suggestion on axle rating? I'm thinking 2x3500lb is too low, 2x7000lb is overkill and would come with the penalty of a heavier light weight. I would think 2x~5000lb is Goldilocks. Looks like rated tow capacity of the truck is ~13 000lb.
 
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My 16' trailer is a 10k. 5200lb axles. It also has 5" main C-channels. As you know I towed my 6500lb truck on it and it was perfect (prob had another 500lbs of s***e on the trailer). It's payload is actually 8200lb I think.


Next trailer will be 18 or 20' with 6000 or 7000lb axles. There have been a few times when I could have used a little heavier trailer (6" channels would be better). The extra 1000lb diff between a 10k trailer and a 14k trailer really isn't that big of a deal to me.


If it's only ever going to tow your truck (or one like it), then get a 10k.


If you look for a PJ trailer with the full width deck, that would be the shiznit.


Oh, and you DO NOT want a 2x3500lb trailer.
 
I would go with a heavier trailer. 2x 6000lbs but more likely 7000. If you think all you will use your trailer for is your truck you are sorely mistaken. Heavier will pull better, you can add on to it( winch, tool box extra c channel, rough timber when your crappy floor boards go, extra tie down points.

Your truck will have no problems with either. I would look for used and spend quality time underneath it looking for cracks, how the wiring was run, and the quality of the a-frame design. After that you can repair and modify anything on the trailer. We have had great like with Trailtech trailers. Distributed out of sask through Flaman . Tee use them 8 hours a day and load them heavy. When the factory deck is shot we replace with 2" rough timber , rewire and add approx 3 new c-channel for better weight distribution.

You won't notice the difference between 6000 and 7000 lbs when unloaded.
 
One thing I once heard was 3500lb and 5000lb axles use the same running hear but the 5000s have bigger brakes. So bearings are the same bit tires could be better. I have chosen to believe this without further research as it makes me feel good.

My little trailer is 3500lb axles. Assuming the trailer is 2k and I have a tongue load of 800 that gets me about 5800 payload by my estimation. Lately I've yanked it all over hell with the hj47 being the heaviest. It handled it wonderfully save for some bearing issues that were likely maintenance not load related. The bigger advantage of bigger trailers for me is tires. Big tough tires


I'd get an 18' 14k trailer. Town anything you want anytime and have a good time knowing your trailer is skukem.
 
Thanks for your thoughts guys. Opinions of those who've been there certainly trump my weakly-based speculation.

I've seen H&H, PJ, Big Tex,.... advertised around here. I'll have to keep an eye out and see if Trailtech is around here to.

When you say full width deck, are you referring to a deck-over? Or a wider "deck-between"?
 
With wheels they should be between 78-80". I run 15.5 " tsl/sx on the 74 and it fit between our 79". 3.5" backspace with 1.5" spacers. I have some pics of trucks on our trailer I 'll try to find. Show you how they fit.
 
20' trailer but I could use the space in front of the vehicle

image-2990541029.jpg


image-865797588.jpg
 
Deck over is exactly that... the whole deck is over the wheels, sits higher, convenient for hauling anything, inconvenient for loading, and is more sensitive to load distribution (higher COG)


The PJ trailers have trailers that are a full width deck, still have wheel fenders (that you can drive on) and the deck in front and behind the wheels is as wide as the fenders.


My trailer is actually a Rainbow.... from your neck of the woods Curtis.


I'd say X2 on Bambino's post, there will be times when you will load the crap out of the trailer. Might as well buy one that can handle it. And you won't notice much difference..... well, the heavier one might pull better (not sure about that).


B
 
And then you never know situation

image-304348315.jpg
 
I have had great luck with Load Trail. My 20' steel deck tilt trailer was amazing and regret selling it. Next trailer will be similar with the 7K axles.

Another decision is the type of ramp you want.

Folding ramps are ok if you use them a lot in the day but they add over 12" hanging off back of trailer. Also they are brutally loud banging down the highway.

Slide in ramps are ok too but can become bent if abused or no support jacks are used on deck of trailer.

I would sacrifice a few things to get a good deal but a "big foot" style 12K jack with the side handle is a must, adjustable hitch, and torsion axles.

That being said a good deal is a good deal and I haven't owned my own trailer for 4 years and have borrowed everyone else's and did just find. Also appreciated the use of the them but makes ya miss a few of the small things

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