Looking for advise (1 Viewer)

[cerial0411]

This is going to come off as a noob question but that's what it is.

I am building what can best be described as a buggy off a 69 cj-5 frame that will roughly resemble a cj-5. This has gone from a mildly built cj-5 project to a all out dual purpose rig. The 225 v6 was dropped for a 383 Chevy for availability. It is a propane powered torque built monster that will put out around 400 pounds of torque. I am running that to a t-18 (low ratio) 4 speed and then I was going to use a dana 18.

I have a set of 87 fj62 ps drop axles that are stock and planned on installing longfields and a disks on the rears and call them good.

The concern lies in the transfer case. The dana 18 seems like it would be the weak link and I'm being told will not hold up to the abuse of what I am looking to do. The other option of a Orion kit is very tight for my application requiring trimming with the cost making other transfer cases a smarter choice.

I am looking at going with the atlas 4 speed making my ps drop 62 axles useless. I have set my sights on the 8" (1985)cause it comes close to the fj62's width and has the support.

I chose the fj62 axles because they were the beefiest axle I could find with a width of 60 inches. They also had the ps drop and at the time that worked out giving me a overdrive option.

I highly respect Toyota axles and there capabilities.

I am looking for a axle that I can run 35" tires with with gear ratios around 4.11's.

I would like to spend less then $3k for these axles weather building them myself or buying them complete.

I want the axle under 60 inches in width. I also like the 3rd member option and am open to ford. The rear will need to be a center drop. These will have a elocker(not a Toyota factory one) installed in them at a later time. I am looking for recommendations on what to look at.in the 8 inch or other type of axle.

Thank you

 

[4WheelUnderground]

My recommendation to you would be to run something wider. 60"s isn't wide at all. But why is it that going with an Atlas will make your passenger drop FJ62 axles usless?? I dont understand that one.

 

[jeepcrasher]

I agree on 2 notes. 60" is still narrow and an Atlas can be ordered in either side drop.

 

[cerial0411]

The atlas is available with a ps REAR drop? I have never seen/heard of one.
If is available that would let me toss the fj62's back in the build plan. I can still use the front 62 but I think I need a center rear diff to work with the atlas.

I want a 60" axle width because I want to be able to park it around town easily. It will end up being roughly 70" wide once the tires are on.

 

[cerial0411]

No ps read drop offered via AA. Who can I look at for a beefed 8" center diff or would I be better off Making my own hybrid?

 

[RAYJON]

if you have time and are cheep like most cruiser heads... you can flop the fj62 front axle and do a cut and turn for a spring over at the same time, basicly involves cutting the bells off the outer and turning them 180. and welding them back in place and turning the diff over and grinding a little on the center section...

as for the rear the early toy pickup rears were centered and have the same size axles as the cruiser. there is a thread in the tech section on how to center a fj40 axle.. using the land cruiser center and the mini axles and axle tubes....

that should get you where you want.... or you could narrow a dana 60 front and use a cab and chassis 14 bolt in the rear they are 63" wide....

good luck...

 

[bustanutley]

I think you should run the 62 front and get a 98ish unlocked taco rear end. 60” wide, 8.4” diff (trussed 8”) The 62 front end is actually 58ish” but if you wanted to put better brakes on it you can use frontrange offroads adapters to run the larger taco or early tundra brakes and larger rotors with ifs hubs and that will widen the front end about 2” This is the same setup I have in my cruiser, it has been reliable for me on 40s.
Or, you could build a hybrid rear if you want to use the cruiser diff and taco shafts/brakes. I don’t see a reason for this trouble in your application unless you want to keep the diff the same throughout the truck.

 

[4rnr]

First, I wouldn't trade a cruiser 9.5'' for a mini 8".

If I were you I would run the fj62 front, it has just as much aftermarket support as the 8", but has a stronger 3rd, is wider, and has a much stronger housing!

For the rear... center up the 62 axle, its super easy. The OD of the mini-truck axle tubes, matches the ID of the fj62 axle tubes. Just slide them together and set it at whatever width you want. Though I would suggest picking a width that will allow you to put in an OE mini axle shaft. Pre 85 shafts will give you 55", 86-95 will give you 58", later 4runner and taco's will give you 60.75" and the t-100's will give you 66.75".

There is no reason to look at an 8" over the axles you have.

 

[cerial0411]

Yea I would prefer to use using the 3rd member I like the 4.11 ratio and have not heard of to many people that have broke a r/p on one running 35's. I think that if I keep the option open I can find some stock back ups also in case I do break a ring.

I have drooled over the diamond housings a bit and don't hear anything bad about them.

For the money and the upgrades they install would giving diamond a call and having them set there housing for my stock 62 non e lock 9.5 3rd be the way to go? I believe I could probably do it for half the price if I did it myself but I might end up having the housing slightly off which would require constant bearing and seal replacement.

I would use my current front and rear housings to set up the tri link and find the pinion angle. Then give diamond a call for the rear and cruiser or diamond(depending on the price difference) a call for the front.

 

[4rnr]

Yea I would prefer to use using the 3rd member I like the 4.11 ratio and have not heard of to many people that have broke a r/p on one running 35's. I think that if I keep the option open I can find some stock back ups also in case I do break a ring.

I have drooled over the diamond housings a bit and don't hear anything bad about them.

For the money and the upgrades they install would giving diamond a call and having them set there housing for my stock 62 non e lock 9.5 3rd be the way to go? I believe I could probably do it for half the price if I did it myself but I might end up having the housing slightly off which would require constant bearing and seal replacement.

I would use my current front and rear housings to set up the tri link and find the pinion angle. Then give diamond a call for the rear and cruiser or diamond(depending on the price difference) a call for the front.

I probably read that 3 times to figure out what you are asking....

You're not confident in your abilities to center up a 62 rear axle??.....then yes you can go with the aftermarket. Ruffstuff specialties also now offers a centered 9.5, and Dan is the shiz!!! I think his is around $600.

 

[cerial0411]

Ruff stuff's Heims are the best around. The housing hey have is impressive and still in development.

"You will have the option of Trussed or not but we are not showing the truss til release because it is unique and much stronger than I have seen in the Rocks or the Desert..... "ruffstuffspecialties.com.

"We will be making end flanges and hub/spindle combos but we are not yet decided on final hub specs. Presently there are many companies making good options for the ends so we can wait and make one better as we concentrate on them. "ruffstuffspecialties.com.

I called them about a month ago concerning the actual load I can put on the heims. I have a 2 link design based on rubicon express's tri link design where the actual suspension/weight is placed on the link's near the belly not on the axle. This puts a lot of stress on the upper heims(on the frame) but allows for wicked suspension travel and the ability to change the wheel base and suspension height by simply switching to longer or shorter links(the longer the links the more stress is applied to the upper heims).

During the call I also brought up the housing. Considering the amount of fab work someone would need to do to a stock housing to get to that level $600 seems like a steal. I was more interested in the front housing then the rear at that point though and the conversation ran back to the heims.

I really need to tack up the suspension using the current axles so I can consider the best bracing(the front tie rod is massive) and mounting location before giving anyone a call but a aftermarket housing is in the plans.

Thanks for all the help

 

[cody c]

80 series rear axles are closer to centered, and should be a 9.5" diff. Lots around too.