Looking for advice on where to source parts, RRC

[1leglance]

It is time to update everyone on Project Rover's progress and then ask for some advice.
We are getting ready to head out Ghost Town exploring with a few disabled folks, this will be a test run to check out an area for a future event and document the places for other handicapped folks to know terrain, hazards, and things to see.
Then we will be presenting to a group of Special Needs kids & parents so they can see that backcountry adventure is for everyone.
After that it will be a display at the Az Game & Fish Outdoor Expo. The Ben Avery Range is hosting the event and has a wheelchair setup skeet range, very nice!
In addition there are a few companies that have jumped in to help us out and keep us from having to work so much overtime at our day jobs!
Sierra Expeditions was first in line to offer a dual battery setup and of course they will help with all kinds of expedition kit we need.
Rover Tracks came through in a big way with their Steering Damper Relocation Kit and some other great parts.
Safari Gard is bouncing into the game with a set of their progressive 2” lift springs.
Land Rover Lifestyle Magazine will be tracking us on their blog and we hope to see the Project appear in their pages when we do our wounded military persons event so another outing the Rover will make.
With this need to get the disabled out into the backcountry it was important to get the rig checked out by someone we could trust. And who we could send other disabled guys to and know they will be well treated. Rover Techs in Scottsdale looked over the truck and gave us a list of things to work on. The best thing about these guys is that they told us what to pickup used and what would be better new! Looking to save the customer money, that is a rare thing these days.
Here is the list for all of you to look over and please let me know of any source for these parts at a good price. And if you know of anyone with quality used versions of these bits that would really help us keep the budget down.
Water Pump (I am thinking we should go with new here? Yes?)
Radiator (has cold spots, how well do these handle being dipped/flushed?)
Power Steering Pump & Hoses
Motor Mounts
Seal kits for both sides of the front axle
Heater Core (we won’t actually replace this until we are ready to do the dual battery & wiring)
Center console window switch
Seat switches (may have a local wrecked rig for these w/ seats)
So chime in with any thoughts on where to get the parts we need, what is ok used and what is better new, or anything else you are thinking about.

 

[JohnnyC]

these guys have alot:
Rovers North - Land Rover Parts at the Best Prices

and :
http://www.roverparts.com/

the times i dealt with them they were both quite helpful

water pump:
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/

power steering pump:
http://www.autozone.com/

 

[1leglance]

I have had a real hit & miss time with autozone parts....something like a water pump I wonder if it wouldn't be better to get a quality parts...
Anyone use & been fine with the autozone stuff?

 

[alia176]

I used to shop quite a bit at XKs Unlimited - Jaguar Parts & Restoration Not sure if they're into LRs anymore but might be worth a check.

I've had no issues with the auto parts store parts like autozone, checkers, etc as long as they have a decent warranty.

Good luck.

 

[knightofni]

I used to have a '93 RRC - they're great trucks if you can work on them yourself. I wouldn't want a post '95 - you can run into all kinds of issues with the BECM (Body Electrical Control Module) primarily with the immobilizer built into the alarm. Air suspension is really nice when it works, but most of the people I know with Rovers have gone to an OME spring/shock system, and bypassed the air.
As for parts, I found really good prices at British Pacific in Valencia, CA - really good for general maintenance parts. They don't seem to carry as much in terms of accesories as Atlantic British or Rovers North, but better prices on OEM replacement parts. Good guys, too.
--
Kevin
Livermore, CA
2004 Land Cruiser 100

 

[95Rover]

I have had good experiences with www.britishpacific.com for my '95 LWB. I have also found www.roverconnection.com useful. These are in addition to one's mentioned by JohnnyC

 

[codeseven]

Atlantic British

 

[rrovervm]

If you're going to raise 2" you also need to change the shock absorbers to get longer travel and not bottom on them. You also need to change the front radius arms for ones which put back the castor angle to the correct value otherwise the car will wander all over the road - this is the problem that a lot of people have even when they have not raised it 2". The rubber silentblocs go soft and the castor angles change all the time. I recommend using Polybush to replace all rubber mountings on the vehicule. It is also preferable to replace the rear trailing links with special ones which are cranked to make the forces on the bushes horizontal in normal on-road conditions and put the rear axle back in the right place after being lifted. You should also in theory change the Panhard rod for a longer (adjustable) one otherwise the front axle will no longer be in line with the rear axle. Not many peole do this because it is only a couple of millimetres difference.
And don't forget the flexible brake hoses need to be longer - I've used avaiation quality.
I have done all the above (and more) to my Range Rover TD which I have now owned for 17 years. I also changed all the suspension bushes on my Range Rover Vogue Sei and improved the roadholding and ride comfort because it reduced the body roll by more than half.
I hope the above doesn't put you off doing the raise - it is worth it if you are going to go off-road a lot.
Rob

 

[agomez]

atlanticbritish ask for oem...

 

[nmt3320]

Land Rover Suspension Lift Kits
Lucky8 LLC

Both are great!!!

 

[TS888]

Another vote for British Pacific for replacement parts. Great to work with, best prices in the US, fast shipping.

 

[TS888]

If you're going to raise 2" you also need to change the shock absorbers to get longer travel and not bottom on them. You also need to change the front radius arms for ones which put back the castor angle to the correct value otherwise the car will wander all over the road - this is the problem that a lot of people have even when they have not raised it 2". The rubber silentblocs go soft and the castor angles change all the time. I recommend using Polybush to replace all rubber mountings on the vehicule. It is also preferable to replace the rear trailing links with special ones which are cranked to make the forces on the bushes horizontal in normal on-road conditions and put the rear axle back in the right place after being lifted. You should also in theory change the Panhard rod for a longer (adjustable) one otherwise the front axle will no longer be in line with the rear axle. Not many peole do this because it is only a couple of millimetres difference.
And don't forget the flexible brake hoses need to be longer - I've used avaiation quality.
I have done all the above (and more) to my Range Rover TD which I have now owned for 17 years. I also changed all the suspension bushes on my Range Rover Vogue Sei and improved the roadholding and ride comfort because it reduced the body roll by more than half.
I hope the above doesn't put you off doing the raise - it is worth it if you are going to go off-road a lot.
Rob

My $0.02 worth -- For a 2" lift, yes on extended brake hoses. Longer shocks? Maybe, but standard shocks will be fine if you're not constantly articulating to the limits of axle travel. Bottoming is not the risk, it's overextending. If you still have the anti-roll bars on the axles, you'll never reach the limit of shock extension. I second the vote for urethane bushes. You give up a small amount of flex, but for 99% of your driving they are a benefit.

Caster correction? Adjustable panhard? Cranked rear arms? None of these are needed at 2" of lift. I had an RRC raised 2+", and my 110 is raised 3", and neither required any of those mods. The 110 does have +2" shocks, as it has no anti-roll bars. The difference in axle alignment on the 110 is literally not measurable at rest. Both trucks drove/drive straight, smooth and without any problems.

Above 3", I'd say these mods are worth it. But then above 3", you're probably planning for 33" or larger tires, and you need to be thinking about upgrading axle half shafts and differentials. You should look at drive shaft length as well, and consider double cardan shafts.

 

[TS888]

Water Pump (I am thinking we should go with new here? Yes?)

Yes, new, and OEM if at all possible. Call British Pacific, and tell them no Britpart parts/

Radiator (has cold spots, how well do these handle being dipped/flushed?)

Even better, have it re-cored and add a core layer. Shouldn't cost much more than $200, and it will assure you are not dealing with overheating.

Power Steering Pump & Hoses

For the pump, Meridian in California sells very good reman parts. For the hoses, go OEM.

Motor Mounts

OEM...

Seal kits for both sides of the front axle

Assume this is referring to swivel seals. IIRC, there's also an oil seal inside the axle tube, it should be replaced while the hubs are apart to do the swivels. Cheap "while you're in there" job. And be sure the swivel pre-load gets set up right on re-assembly, getting them too loose will subject you to "death wobble".

Heater Core (we won’t actually replace this until we are ready to do the dual battery & wiring)

You will absolutely want to replace the heater fan while doing this job. Why? Because the RRC is built around the heater box... You only want to go there once.

 

[TS888]

And one other thought -- replace the engine oil cooler lines. They get baked by the passenger side exhaust manifold, and if they fail, fire is the common result. It's worth spending a bit of extra money to have braided steel lines made.