Looking for a Locksmith (DFW area)

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B3A5T

B3A5T

10 Year
Joined
Oct 21, 2011
Threads
36
Messages
303
Location
PlanoTX
So my 01 LC100!is not starting. I clearly need a new key bc the one I have has a cracked housing. So fr jis has happened 3 times. First time it finally fired after 30 minutes and the car was driven for weeks with no issues, second was today and it took 15 minutes to finally start. Currently it will not fire, just turn. I have the red immobilizer car light flashing and its not regnizing the key.
Not sure if I have a master or not. It's a black housing 3 bottons. No letters or codes on the key.

I am looking for a recommendation to a Locksmith that can cut a master for me or make me reliable key. Maybe someone here is from Dallas and went thru this.
I don't want to use the stealership for Obvious reasons, plus I heard they don't cut keys if the master is missing. They will want replace the whole ignition etc = $$$$
that's not even needed.

Any help or advice highly welcomed and appreciated.
Cheers
 
Michael Hanson said:
I use John at Toyota of Dallas in parts. Mike
Click to expand...

Really? I heard that dealerships don't "do" this sort of thing. Have you had any keys cut there?
Im pretty sure this is what's going on, I really worry that they will do the typical let me scan the car and replace things that are not the actual issue. I had some "experience" with Toyota of Plano.

Anyway thanks for the info.
 
Michael Hanson said:
Yes had good luck on several cruisers, had poor results else where. Mike
Click to expand...

Cool, first I hope I get her to start. She is sitting outside a restaurant. I bet with our weather ALL tow trucks are booked for weeks.

I'm assuming I have to bring cruiser w me. The key and proof of ownership is not enough I suppose? Would you happen to know if they have to plug into the ecu to program the key?
Really thanks for the help, I'll be calling them early tomorrow.
 
I think you have a interesting issue.

If the key turns in the ignition the metal part is fine. I had no battery in my key (OEM) for 3 years and never had an issue. The internals were broken (internal button had fallen off), and had mold growing in it (I left it in my pocket, and washed it). The ID on the chip doesn't require any battery power, as mine started fine for 3 years. I think you have something else going on. Do you have a valet key, or just the one key? I would try the other keys if possible. I also have a spare key that I keep in my wallet (metal only) and a transponder that is also broken with no battery hidden in the truck just incase I lose my master, that starts the truck fine, when I hold the transponder (again, broken with no battery) next to the ignition cylinder.

The master key will shut off the immobilizer light as soon as it is inserted, all other keys will not. Do the buttons work? I ended up purchasing a new key off eBay for $50 and programmed it myself. The dealer will cut the key at no cost if you provide them with your VIN number.
 
there is a ton of info on keys in the FAQ.

Anyway, that it's just cracked should not have a bearing on starting it up, I believe. You could take the chip out and stick it next to the keyhole and it should start normally when turning the metal key prong. So there may be something else going on.
 
I did some searching and I came to the conclusion it was the key. I only have 1 key, and one plastic key. I do have a key with no fob on it. Haven't used that since there is no way to hold it or pull it once inserted.
I did notice that the cylinder allows me to pull the key out even when the key is turned to on. I only have 160k miles and can't believe the ignition is all used up.
So here's the deal, I'm pretty sure that when the truck starts the flashing red car disappears. Tonite was the first time I've noticed it flashing. Pretty sure it wasnt staying on before, I would have noticed that.
To answer some questions, all buttons work. Car lock and unlocks nd hen the key is inserted I cn turn and crank the engine but it will not fire. I'm counting on the past two experiences that if I just let it be it will start.
What really sucks is that the first time it happened the issue went away for weeks, today it has happened twice. Other than that -once on- she runs perfect.
 
Michael Hanson said:
IF you tell John I sent you in that should get you through the security issues. We had this happen on our 2004. Mike
Click to expand...

Great! Thanks!!! I will.
It really puts my mind at rest knowing that this is the issue (hopefully).
This is the kind of stuff the stresses me out. It stays in my mind until its fixed and it sucks when I can't do anything for it.
 
I also struggled with this problem for some time. Turned out to be the EFI fuse. Next time it will not start swap out the EFI fuse under the hood with another 20 amp fuse. Change it even if the fuse looks (and tests) good. My problem ended up getting progressively worse and I had to replace the fuse/relay box. You can search "EFI fuse" for more information.
 
B3A5T said:
Really? I heard that dealerships don't "do" this sort of thing. Have you had any keys cut there?
Im pretty sure this is what's going on, I really worry that they will do the typical let me scan the car and replace things that are not the actual issue. I had some "experience" with Toyota of Plano.

Anyway thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Most dealers have the equipment to cut keys (maybe not all, like some of the newer "inverted keys"). They might charge you a fee to cut a key if you bring one in and they will not guarantee that it will work, if its not a part purchased over their counter.
 
rhino8005 said:
I also struggled with this problem for some time. Turned out to be the EFI fuse. Next time it will not start swap out the EFI fuse under the hood with another 20 amp fuse. Change it even if the fuse looks (and tests) good. My problem ended up getting progressively worse and I had to replace the fuse/relay box. You can search "EFI fuse" for more information.
Click to expand...

x2 on this. OP, please try this first before going to any dealer or anything else. Replace; not remove, inspect, and reinstall; but replace the EFI fuse under the hood. It may look fine and test fine, but replace it. Your symptoms are exactly what happened to me a couple weeks ago and I replaced the EFI fuse and started right up as normal.
 
Elijah said:
x2 on this. OP, please try this first before going to any dealer or anything else. Replace; not remove, inspect, and reinstall; but replace the EFI fuse under the hood. It may look fine and test fine, but replace it. Your symptoms are exactly what happened to me a couple weeks ago and I replaced the EFI fuse and started right up as normal.
Click to expand...

I'll definitively give it a try. Were you also getting the red car flashing on the dash by the clock? I read that (another thread) the efi fuse and or relay can cause confusion with the immobilizer. I just want to make sure this is consistent with the issue. Car is still outside the restaurant were it "died" ill give the fuse a try before calling the tow truck.
Thanks!
 
Update

I went back this morning with fuses (yes I know, I'm a dumbass for not having a kit in the car !lesson learned!) Anyway, tried the car and nothing. Went straight for the 20amp EFI fuse, trying to pull it out I wiggled the EFI relay (next to the fuse). There was some clicking and suddenly the car alarm went off. Pressed the key button to stop the alarm, jumped in and turned the key: it fired, first try and not even a hiccup.:cheers:

Drove home and tried turning it one more time, it started. Therefore I will have "it" replaced plus ill carry an extra. I'm thinking asking a garage to clean the connectors in the fuse box. Not sure tho since my engine is clean, but who knows. I will also replace the 20 amp fuse.

Conclusion so far, the EFI (is it a relay?) was sticking and going.

For those having the same symptom and wondering what/where I'm talking about: pop the hood, driver side aft of wheel you will see your fuse box. Inscribed on top of the box is the diagram. EFI fuse (20amp) and just by its side towards the rear of the car is the EFI or ECD ?relay? Replace both.

I'm still getting a new key cut jic. It's just dumb on my side to have the ONE.

Thanks all of you for the prompt help, specially for pushing for the replacement of the fuse and the hook-up to where cut a new key.

:cheers:

Further update:
Drove to Toyota of Plano to buy the relay but bc of the ice storm the computers were down. They suggested ParkPlace Lexus, so I drove there. The part #85915-30050 was $97.48 with taxes and its a Delco/Toyota part. I swapped both the fuse and relay and it starts. It immediately recognizes the key and no more blinking red car and no issues. I wanted to keep one as spare in the toolkit jic but they only had one plus its $100. I know I'll sleep better knowing I carry an extra but I'm finding hard to pop another $100 for a spare.
As far as an extra key, Toyota of Plano quoted me $230 for the key plus 1 hr to program. I'm looking elsewhere.
Hope this helps the mechanically challenged -like me- if you find yourself in this predicament.
 
Last edited:
I love it when a plan comes together!

Seriously, that is the way this forum works. Enthusiasts helping enthusiasts. I am going to put in a plug for Woody. I am on my iPhone so I can't tell if you are already a Silver Star member but if you are not, take a few minutes and spend $20 for a forum membership. If you are already a SS member then disregard my next paragraph.

$20 will remove a lot of the banner advertising that you get if you are not a supporting member. That alone is worth my $20 every year. Because of this forum, you probably just saved yourself $150 wrecker bill and at least a couple hundred dollar garage bill. By giving the $20 it helps support the community so that it is here the next time you are in a bind. Let's face it, once you drive a LC, then usually you are addicted for life. I now have 3.

Ok. I'm now off the soap box. Very glad you got your truck fixed because I learned from your experience as well!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Copenhagen1 said:
I love it when a plan comes together!

Seriously, that is the way this forum works. Enthusiasts helping enthusiasts. I am going to put in a plug for Woody. I am on my iPhone so I can't tell if you are already a Silver Star member but if you are not, take a few minutes and spend $20 for a forum membership. If you are already a SS member then disregard my next paragraph.

$20 will remove a lot of the banner advertising that you get if you are not a supporting member. That alone is worth my $20 every year. Because of this forum, you probably just saved yourself $150 wrecker bill and at least a couple hundred dollar garage bill. By giving the $20 it helps support the community so that it is here the next time you are in a bind. Let's face it, once you drive a LC, then usually you are addicted for life. I now have 3.

Ok. I'm now off the soap box. Very glad you got your truck fixed because I learned from your experience as well!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Click to expand...

Send me the link pls. I def support the forum. Like I stated before: it gives me peace of mind. Plus LCs are cool.:cheers:
 
B3A5T said:
Send me the link pls. I def support the forum. Like I stated before: it gives me peace of mind. Plus LCs are cool.:cheers:
Click to expand...
If you are on the IH8MUD app then it is the first thread in the 100 series forum. If you are on the regular computer, it is in the "stickies" that stay on the top of the page in the 100 series forum. Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

Edit.... Here you go.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/announcement.php?f=26&a=2
 
B3A5T said:
Update

I went back this morning with fuses (yes I know, I'm a dumbass for not having a kit in the car !lesson learned!) Anyway, tried the car and nothing. Went straight for the 20amp EFI fuse, trying to pull it out I wiggled the EFI relay (next to the fuse). There was some clicking and suddenly the car alarm went off. Pressed the key button to stop the alarm, jumped in and turned the key: it fired, first try and not even a hiccup.:cheers:

Drove home and tried turning it one more time, it started. Therefore I will have "it" replaced plus ill carry an extra. I'm thinking asking a garage to clean the connectors in the fuse box. Not sure tho since my engine is clean, but who knows. I will also replace the 20 amp fuse.

Conclusion so far, the EFI (is it a relay?) was sticking and going.

For those having the same symptom and wondering what/where I'm talking about: pop the hood, driver side aft of wheel you will see your fuse box. Inscribed on top of the box is the diagram. EFI fuse (20amp) and just by its side towards the rear of the car is the EFI or ECD ?relay? Replace both.
Click to expand...
Over the last year or so, I've been having the same issue/symptoms with my 2002 LC where it sometimes just doesn't start despite running fine just earlier that day. The no-start condition usually happens after it rains, but not always. It was so intermittent and inconsistent that even my mechanic AND a Toyota dealership had no answers after not being able to replicate the condition. The problem hadn't reared its ugly head in almost 6 months, but it happened again this weekend after a night of light rain. After trying to start it a few times over the weekend with no success, it finally fired up right before I was going check the EFI fuse and relay as pointed out in this thread. Overall, the car sat for about 3 days.

My question to the OP and/or anyone with feedback is whether the EFI fuse or relay looked burned out, corroded or had any sign of damage. I checked mine after the car started and it looks perfectly fine and clean in the fuse box. No signs of water, moisture, smoke, burning, anything. I know it doesn't have to have obvious signs of damage to be broken, but I'm just curious.
 
No damage whatsoever. The part looks practically new. I kept the part jic.
The thing you have to realize is that this is a switch. Sometimes old switches "stick" in the off position. One thing to mention is that I had issues with it while it was snowing, and you do with rain. Who knows?!? But my fuse box is perfectly clean, the seal is good (not sure if water tight) but everything looks "new".
Hope this helps.
 
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