lockrite/aussie locker install issue, help!

[BattleWagon]

HELP! still unresolved


got it all back together, put it in drive, no movement, just a loud ratcheting/clicking. happens in R and D, driveshaft turning and when on jacks I can turn the wheels and they kind of turn in sync but will break free and "click/ratchet." It's definately the 3rd thats making the noise.

all the C-clips are on and axles are tight, everything looked good, any ideas????

basically the locker gears are breaking free and ratcheting under any load.

 

[RockDoc]

Crack it open and look at it.... Any parts left over? Clearances checked out good?

 

[klinetime574]

Are you sure you got the right locker? If its powering the ring gear but not getting power to the wheels it could be the wrong spline count/ pattern and it could be grinding on your axle shafts.

 

[BattleWagon]

Powertrax 1630-LR - Powertrax Lock-Right Lockers - Application - SummitRacing.com

1630-LR for a 1990 FJ62 in the box, but... I bought it from a guy used, looked brand new all the pieces were there, that would be a real s***ter.

are there casting numbers on Lockrights?

I jacked up the rear, both wheels spin freely, shifted it into 4wd, drove straight, no "clicking" then back into 2wd and the clicking returned and zero power to wheels.

 

[John Smith]

Powertrax 1630-LR - Powertrax Lock-Right Lockers - Application - SummitRacing.com

1630-LR for a 1990 FJ62 in the box, but... I bought it from a guy used, looked brand new all the pieces were there, that would be a real s***ter.

are there casting numbers on Lockrights?

I jacked up the rear, both wheels spin freely, shifted it into 4wd, drove straight, no "clicking" then back into 2wd and the clicking returned and zero power to wheels.

Did you perform the thrust washer test? The gap between the pinion shaft and the spacers must be between .005 and .020 inches. Either way, you are pulling the rear cover to see what's going on. If memory serves me correctly my LR did have some code stamped on it.

 

[BattleWagon]

85029 is stamped on the inner gear, I pulled the cover, I'll check the pinion shaft and spacers.

thanks.


edit: which gap exactly?

where is this gap

 

[nuclearlemon]

were all the springs in good condition

 

[BattleWagon]

They seem to be.

 

[BattleWagon]

it's definately the "driver" and the "coupler" that are ratcheting.

 

[Mace]

where is this gap

Between the inner halves (the two drivers). You have quite a bit of room there. Most likely you need thicker thrust washers between the carrier and the couplers.. (you did get the old thrust washers off of the side gears and use them right?)

 

[Mace]

BTW, it should not sound as much like a "click-click-click" As a "Bang-bang-bang" sound if there is too much clearance between the driver gears.

If you look at how the center pin goes through the LR you will see that the LR has an oval hole in it. That design allows the center pin to actually jam the drivers into the couplers and locks up the rear end.

If the clearance is too great, you do not have enough pressure from the drivers to hold on to the couplers.

The tolerance limits are between .145-inch (3,68 mm) and .170 inch (4.32-mm)

 

[BattleWagon]

that is a stock pic I used off of here.

FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction

here is a vid I shot of the rearend, I'm just turning the wheel, but the driveshaft makes the same result. When I wedge a flat head screwdriver in beteen the inner gears it locks up just fine. so I'm assuming I need stronger springs or to install (another? spacer?)

 

[Mace]

Ratcheting like that is normal.

You need to power the ring gear (and engage the center pin to the inner LR halves) to get the locker functioning properly.

All the springs do is allow the locker to ratchet and return to the "locked" position easily. They are not what makes the locker actually lock up. The center pin does that.

 

[Mace]

And, if you need thicker thrust washers, you have to replace both of them on the sides. Not a huge deal, Toyota made multiple thicknesses for thrust washers. I think they are about 6 bucks each or so.

By measuring the space between the inner drivers (with the teeth engaged) you can figure out how much thicker the thrust washers need to be to get into spec.

 

[John Smith]

This is the test you must perform; that Mace and I are talking about.

 

[BattleWagon]

BTW, it should not sound as much like a "click-click-click" As a "Bang-bang-bang" sound if there is too much clearance between the driver gears.

If you look at how the center pin goes through the LR you will see that the LR has an oval hole in it. That design allows the center pin to actually jam the drivers into the couplers and locks up the rear end.

If the clearance is too great, you do not have enough pressure from the drivers to hold on to the couplers.

The tolerance limits are between .145-inch (3,68 mm) and .170 inch (4.32-mm)

the gap was about 3.5mm, could it be too little?

 

[BattleWagon]

oh and these are my only leftover parts...

 

[BattleWagon]

here's a vid, it's on jackstands idling, then at second 7 I shift it into drive and it ratchets. the clearances all look, I can't measure the pinion shaft and spacer gap until I pull the inners, which it looks like I'll have to do unless someone chimes in with a heroicaly easy solution.

 

[klinetime574]

Is your e-brake stuck on?

 

[BattleWagon]

no, it's disconnected, I can spin either wheel freely.