lockers (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2005
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Location
Indiana
I don't think my front and rear lockers are working.When I turn the switch I don't hear any thing and don't notice any change.also I have have read something about a center diff.lock and would like to know if I can add it to my 97.I just got this cruiser last Nov.and I am trying to learn thing about it.Can any help me about this. would appreciate any help.
 
your center diff will be automatically engaged when you shift from hi to low (the "diff lock" light on your dash will come on). you should then be able to engage the rear, then front lockers (with their respective lights first blinking, then going solid when they engage).
 
You can also here a little click or tick sound when they engage, or at least thats true with your CDL.
 
cruiser larry said:
I don't think my front and rear lockers are working.When I turn the switch I don't hear any thing and don't notice any change.also I have have read something about a center diff.lock and would like to know if I can add it to my 97.I just got this cruiser last Nov.and I am trying to learn thing about it.Can any help me about this. would appreciate any help.

Larry, read this first:

http://www.lcool.org/technical/diffs/diffs.html

Then do a search here at IH8MUD for "DIFF LOCK SWITCH", "CENTER DIFF LOCK", "CENTER DIFFERENTIAL" AND "LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL". Read through those posts. Then get out your owner's manual and follow the instructions on how to operate the locking differential system. If it still does not work or you do not get solid red indicators below the speedometer, come back here and report that.

Jim
 
You can install a center diff lock switch that will allow you to engage the center diff lock in 4H manually, as well as the 4L position that engages automatically. This is a 15 minute install. You should also know that there is a pin-7 mod that you can do that will give you even greater flexibility (do a search on this).

Front and rear lockers are known to get "stiff" after long periods of non-use. Before getting frantic over it, just try to cycle them a number of times and see if they don't loosen up. If not, I'm sure others here with experience in the "fix" will tell you what to do.

Enjoy your cruiser :D and ... :flipoff2:
 
The center MUST be locked before the diffs will lock. If you are tyring to lock the diffs with the center unlocked, you will be there 'til the cows come home.
 
cruiserdan said:
you will be there 'til the cows come home.


I've always wondered :confused: when are those darn cows coming home. ;p
 
reffug said:
I've always wondered :confused: when are those darn cows coming home. ;p

Cows come home when they WANT to come home...(and not a minute sooner).
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info.I didn't know it had to be in low to work.And I will check the web.site listed.
 
Jim mentioned it above but I'll repeat it. The owners manual is a good thing even with the web for additonal support. I refer to mine fairly often for things like torque setting for wheels, rotation pattern and the amounts of oil required for changes.

I'd read it even if makes you feel like a smuck, there's some good info in there.

Oh and welcome Larry.
 
I am going to get an owners manual.Is puting a center locking switch in a good thing to do.I had heard about them.ut didn't know.
 
I think Downey may sell a kit to eliminate the OEM locking mechanims with a cable actuated mechanism. I think it would be beneficial since to me the only negative if the OEM lockers in my FZJ is that they don't always come on when I want them to.
 
CDL switch Is it a good thing?

Well that depends on what you like. It provides full control of the CDL so that you can lock it when in High range or unlock it in low range (assuming you also perform the pin 7). Why would you want to do the above?

High range locked - could be used if for some reason you pull the front drive shaft and need to drive the truck on the highway. Useful if you break something.

Low range unlocked - useful when needing low range on a hard surface like moving a boat or trailer around.

Personally I'd get familar with your truck some more before doing that mod. Search around the site a bit as well. Also read up on the pin 7 mod. I have one but as of yet I haven't really needed it yet. Maybe a couple of times in 2 years it has helped.

Regarding the owners manual - you mean to tell me that it's not in the glove box? We aren't talking about the FSM, we're talking about the little owners manual. I can't imagine why people are selling trucks without it. What did they do with it, burn it starting a camp fire?
 
Riley on it wasn't in the glove box there was one part of it but both.I am new to this and have some things to learn and I will in time.thanks for info.
 
No problem, I was just clarifying that we were refering to the owners manual not the FSM. I've heard of others not getting the manual and it seems weird to me. I guess a pet peeve, like how does someone lose it (considering that nobody reads it).
 
I'm amazed at that too. What good is the owner's manual to a seller to keep? I've seen sloppy dealers sell used cars without the manual because they take everything that's not nailed down out of a used car to prevent theft. Then, poor dealers forget to get things back in when they're delivered - wheel locks, tool kits, owner's manuals, spare keys, etc.

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
I'm amazed at that too.DougM

I agree. Its like these eBayers (sorry if any of you have ever done this) who sell 3rd row seats out of a Cruiser they once owned. Auction says "I took these out of my truck when it was new and they have been in the basement. I sold the truck so...." Hello??

Prior posts bring up a good point; unlike some manufacturers, there actually is some good info in Toyota Owner's Manuals.
 

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