Locker actuators reconditioning needed?

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Graham County, Arizona
My E-lockers are so slow it would be faster to remove them and engage them manually. That said it time to do some reconditioning. In reading the FSM it talks about FIPG aka three bond 1281 to seal the O-ring. What is this stuff and do I need it? What else is needed in terms of parts in the disassembly of the actuator itself? Should I replace the O-ring? I cannot find info in the FSM on the disassembly and rebuilding of the actuator. Is there anything else that could cause this slowness besides the actuator itself? The CDL locks within a few seconds (have switch). Cycling the E-lockers has resulted in no improvement. Just a lot of time watching the lights blink. They are slow to disengage also.

At this point I HATE E-lockers… after running ARBs for years where only a push of a button and you are locked with no lights to blink.

Phil
 
Phil,

I just excercised my factory e-lockers yesterday in prep for the coming desert season (OK, so it's only September first, but a guy can dream, can't he......). So these e-lockers have been idle for at least 6 months. They exhibited just what you said yours did until I thought of this little "erercise".
This seems to work every time: 1) get to a dirt or gravel lot or road 2) Select your CDL switch (if so modified) otherwise select Low range, 3) select both rear & front to "Lock". 4) Drive slowly forward turning front wheels one way or the other - the ft locker should now engage. 5) continuing driving in an arc (either Right or Left, doesn't matter), the rears should lock.
The purpose in turning the front wheels is to have the ouside wheel travel farther than the inside wheel, thus nudging the locker in to engagement. Ditto driving in an arc for the back wheels and the respective locker.
Hope that helps - I was thinking the same thing about having to rebuild the actuators before I did this excercise.

Al B.

P.S. Slight hijack now in progress; What's the deal with the e-lockers coming out of lock *automatically* when the CDL is removed ???? After adding the CDL switch and the Pin 7 mod I thought I "had the power" only to find another interlock on my lock !
 
Al B. Thanks but been there and done that. No improvement.

Actually if my lockers work right I like the disengaging of the axles when the CDL is unlocked. Normally I don’t go around just 1/2 or part locked its all or nothing. One touch service...that way one would not need to look to see whats in and what isn’t.

Phil still waiting
 
The FIFG stuff as best I can tell is just good Form-A-Gasket, or better yet the stuff called 'The Right Stuff', made by Permatex, in a cheese-wiz type pressurized can, very good stuff, also resistant to ATF, which almost nothing is. This stuff is what I'm told is actually called out in the Land Rover manual by name, and if anyone knows about fixing gaskets and leaks, it's LR people.. :flipoff2:

As for the reliability, you must have had ARB lockers correctly installed, I've seen many more problems with them than e-lockers, but probably none I have seen have ever been installed by anyone who knows what they are doing.

I have never had to deal with my actuators, but I don't think it's overly complicated, I know others who have rebuilt the whole things.

Good Luck, if they engage this slow, better lock them in now to be prepared for winter.. :)
 
Phil,

They're surprisingly easy to remove, clean and replace according to several posts on this I've read over the years. Most find some corrosion in the connections/motor that is easily cleaned and it seemed like most of these were rust belt rigs or heavily wheeled in water. FIPG = Form In Place Gasket and there are several available. I have no knowledge of the "best" one, but I believe Toyota has their own brand and personally that's what I'd obtain.

Funny yours won't speed up. Mine react to this "exercise" properly, but when my CDL began engaging slowly I didn't realize it and thought it was the F/R diffs. With your switch this SHOULD not be the case. Have you listened to the F/R actuators from outside the vehicle while someone hit the switch?

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Phil,

Funny yours won't speed up. Mine react to this "exercise" properly, but when my CDL began engaging slowly I didn't realize it and thought it was the F/R diffs. With your switch this SHOULD not be the case. Have you listened to the F/R actuators from outside the vehicle while someone hit the switch?

DougM

What should I hear or listen for while hitting the switch?

Phil
 
Phil,

Sean's found the post I was thinking of - excellent. I'll be curious what you find.

DougM
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
What should I hear or listen for while hitting the switch?

Phil

You would hear a definite metallic 'Clunk' while listening from the outside... My rear locker is exhibiting the same slowness you describe, so I'll be tearing into that soon.. Write up what you find and take pics as well..
 

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