locker actuator 9 volt test???

[acflyguy18]

In the past I read about how to test the actuator/motor of the lockers using a 9V battery. Can't seem to find that thread. If anyone can give me a quick run down on how to do it I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Beowulf]

Dave,
I have not done this test but I think I can point you in the right direction. At the diff lock mechanism on the axle, the wiring harness has a ground and a wire for each direction; lock or unlock. You will use the 9v battery to supply the power to get the motor to turn in the lock direction being careful not to overrun (the factory wiring would prevent this.)

Use the other +12v wire to turn the motor in the unlock direction. The EWD pages for this have been posted several times. Let me know if you are having trouble finding the posts and I will try to help you with the SEARCH.

-B-

 

[acflyguy18]

B, thanks for the input. After pulling the 6 way cannon plug again and trying to test for power from the selector switch on the dash, I put it back and started hearing what I think to be the motor running for the locker. Haven't heard this sound before so I am hopeful. I believe that like most people mine are probably stuck from the previous owner not using them for the past 12 years.

If I do try the 9V test do you know which of the 6 connectors I would put the contact into. I understand that #3 is the hot lead, I think.

X23
456

By the way I am referring to the front.

Haven't worked the rear out yet.

Thanks Again,
Dave

 

[JPHockerAZ]

The 2 wires you need are the solid green and the green/blue wire.

By the way, do not hold the battery on the wires for to long or you will burn out the motor

 

[Beowulf]

Here are some threads from a while back. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/36342-need-locker-help.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/143139-e-locker.html#post1951231
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/17701-rear-locking-dif-assembly-help.html#post907882

Raven also posted a link to the EWD page but the link is broken. I will look for another and post back in a few minutes.

Here are the CDL pages. Still looking for Front and Rear.

This is a picture of the rear but it will give you insight on how the locking mechanisms work.

Photoman's image below:

-B-

 

[RedTacoma]

Is that what you looking for?

 

[acflyguy18]

Thanks to all who replied. -B-, I already have FSM of the wiring for the front and rear from another member, but what you supplied seems more coherant and complete. Thanks a lot to everyone. I will work on it this week.

Dave

 

[JuliosLX450]

fantastic info!!

 

[Mario12345]

my truck doesn't need to be on for this right ???

 

[Fast Eddy]

my truck doesn't need to be on for this right ???

No. The locker could be on the garage floor for this test.

You will use the 9v battery to supply the power to get the motor to turn in the lock direction being careful not to overrun (the factory wiring would prevent this.

Old comment, but... I don't think you can damage anything with 9v.

 

[Mario12345]

No. The locker could be on the garage floor for this test.



Old comment, but... I don't think you can damage anything with 9v.

so I did the test and it made a noise in the motor but it kinda sounded like it died .... its a brand new battery but it made a noise for like 2 second then died out is what it sounded like

 

[Fast Eddy]

That's it getting to the end of it's travel. Now flip the wires and see if it goes back the other way.

You can measure resistance between 4 and 5/6 to see that the traces are ok to limit travel. You should get a No Connect (N/C) on 5 or 6 for each end of the motor travel. Both should have connection when it's not at (or near) the limit.

If it's in the truck, you can jack it up so both wheels are off the ground and figure out if it's actually locking. If it locks, you can then measure resistance on the sensor pins to see if it's working.

 

[Mario12345]

I did and it did but tthen why isn't it working with the switch check out my other post about this on my page .... ........