Hi guys/gals, this one has be and my mech stumped. Well, stumped without as yet having taken the box out.
I can drive the car pretty normally forwards. However attempting to enter reverse - there is clashing of the gears i.e. all the symptoms of the clutch not having been depressed sufficiently.
And this does appear to be fact - in the sense that if one pushes past the initial clutch "stop" - i.e. where the clutch appears to have bottomed out - and makes around 4 times the effort, the clutch pedal can be depressed even further, and there is no problem to engage reverse.
(PS - no floor mats or similar play a part)
In effect, the clutch appears to be two-stage, an initial, light, normal stage which due to the fact that the vehicle is in motion when forward gears are selected and possibly due to better synchro on first than on reverse - this first stage is fine, let's say the clutch disengages but is possibly still rubbing with very light pressure.
Then the second stage, past a very distinct stop in the first stage, whereby the clutch is FULLY disengaged and hence all gears (reverse particularly, but ever so slightly noticeable in first gear too) all engage perfectly, no gear clashing at all.
Now I took this prob to my mech and he says there is nothing on the inside that could be causing this?
I tend to disbelieve, because what else could be causing this 2-stage effect?
This is not appearing to be a pedal position adjustment issue (why would it be) because adjusting this only results in the first stage 'stop' moving accordingly. If I adjust so I don't get a second stage (pedal down) then I simply can't smoothly engage reverse - the second stiff stage is essential for further disengagement. Similarly I can adjust so the second stage starts half way up the pedal travel.
But am reluctant to order the box out and it turns out that this was not necessary. The clutch is otherwise fine, no slip. Also because I am familiar with other vehicles' clutches I really can't understand where this two-stage thing and related extra stiffness is coming from.
So, what is it about? Are 3L clutches different? (Mech says no?) Is there any possible damage (pressure plate, etc) that could be causing this? Ideas?
(Futher reading - How it all started? Well it was probably there most of the time but got worse. I took the car in for a service and also with a note to check out the clutch, it was disengaging right at the bottom of the pedal stroke resulting in problems engaging all gears. The system was bled and after that the m/cyl was replaced also (pointlessly it would seem) and the slave checked too, no leaks.)
Thanks in advance!!!
I can drive the car pretty normally forwards. However attempting to enter reverse - there is clashing of the gears i.e. all the symptoms of the clutch not having been depressed sufficiently.
And this does appear to be fact - in the sense that if one pushes past the initial clutch "stop" - i.e. where the clutch appears to have bottomed out - and makes around 4 times the effort, the clutch pedal can be depressed even further, and there is no problem to engage reverse.
(PS - no floor mats or similar play a part)
In effect, the clutch appears to be two-stage, an initial, light, normal stage which due to the fact that the vehicle is in motion when forward gears are selected and possibly due to better synchro on first than on reverse - this first stage is fine, let's say the clutch disengages but is possibly still rubbing with very light pressure.
Then the second stage, past a very distinct stop in the first stage, whereby the clutch is FULLY disengaged and hence all gears (reverse particularly, but ever so slightly noticeable in first gear too) all engage perfectly, no gear clashing at all.
Now I took this prob to my mech and he says there is nothing on the inside that could be causing this?
I tend to disbelieve, because what else could be causing this 2-stage effect?
This is not appearing to be a pedal position adjustment issue (why would it be) because adjusting this only results in the first stage 'stop' moving accordingly. If I adjust so I don't get a second stage (pedal down) then I simply can't smoothly engage reverse - the second stiff stage is essential for further disengagement. Similarly I can adjust so the second stage starts half way up the pedal travel.
But am reluctant to order the box out and it turns out that this was not necessary. The clutch is otherwise fine, no slip. Also because I am familiar with other vehicles' clutches I really can't understand where this two-stage thing and related extra stiffness is coming from.
So, what is it about? Are 3L clutches different? (Mech says no?) Is there any possible damage (pressure plate, etc) that could be causing this? Ideas?
(Futher reading - How it all started? Well it was probably there most of the time but got worse. I took the car in for a service and also with a note to check out the clutch, it was disengaging right at the bottom of the pedal stroke resulting in problems engaging all gears. The system was bled and after that the m/cyl was replaced also (pointlessly it would seem) and the slave checked too, no leaks.)
Thanks in advance!!!