Hello Guys, I did some cooling service on my truck this weekend. Sorry no pics.
I performed.
1. Coolant System Flush with Prestone Super Flush and Fill with Prestone long life coolant and de-ionized water $35.
2. Heater Hose replacement, I got 4 ft of 5/8" - 16 MM Heater hose from CDN Tire abot a $1.20 a foot and changed all the larger sized rubber hoses. Some were showing signs on leakage and balooning. Used a little bit of vaseline to get the rubber on.
3. Changed to a 180'F Thermostat for a 1986 2L Toyota diesel pickup truck. the part # is 90916-03099 (new). i got it from napa for 20 bucks. Donot forget to get the rubber gasket that goes around. I found all the related parts by using the new search feature on NAPA canada website. it is very good and usually gives a lot of information about the product like sizing etc.
4. New drain cock for a 1988 FJ6x is a suitable replacement. around $6. part # 16417-24200.
5. New radiator cap for the above vehicle works fine, 1640154750, $13 at NAPA. for a 0.9 BAR CAP.
6. Cleaned coolant resevoir with CLR, degraser to get rid of some scum inside. FLushed all little pipes.
The Procedure.
1. Set heater lever to hot. Drain old coolant by first opening the rad drain cock and then the engine block drain. The engine block drain is located below the fuel injector lines as they exit the injection pump. The bolt is 14 MM socket and BRASS in color. I for close to 8.5 litres out.
2. fill system with tap water and flushing product. start vehicle , check for leaks and fill some more. took truck for a small drive. after reaching normal operating temp, i.e. thermo has fully opened and coolant is circulatting completely. drive like this for 12 mins. park the vehicle and wait for it to cool off.
3. While is vehicle is coolinh, take reservoir bottle off and set it for cleaning. take the new thermostart inside house and test it by heating water in a pot, i used a digital BBQ probe for temperature reference.
4, by now vehicle has cooled enough, open rad cap and drain system at rad and engine block. My system was reasonable clean and no gunk etc came out. ( when i repaired the head 3 years ago, the rad was checked,cleaned by a rad shop and they said that it was really clean and no issues)
5. Remove all old hoses, and clean pipe ends. remove top rad hose. Remove the 3 12MM bolts holding water outlet. remove old thermostart and check body for any materials stuck inside the springs etc. Loosed and detach lower rad hose from radiator.
6. Back/Flush heater core, radiator and engine block with garden hose. mine were clear in a little while. push some compressed air to get more water out.
7. Put some de-ionized water through the system to get old tap water out. used 1/2 a jug for this.
8. put back the drain plugs, tighen all hoses. Put the new Thermostat with rubber seal, WITH THE JIGGLE VALVE AT THE 12'O CLOCK POSITION. It is really important as this hole bleeds the air out and helps to avoid an air pocket in the system. put water outlet back on with three bolts. Put top rad hose back on and clamp.
8. Start filling with coolant and de-ionized water, This will take cloe to 8 litres, so you can empty 1 jug of each. check for leaks again by looking under the truck, my lower hose was leaking little bit and repositioned and retightened the clamp. start the vehicle and check that temp lever is in FULL hot position, start filling little by little 3-4 times. Filled coolant reservoir bottle 1 inch above the FULL mark (when engine cools it sucks water back in). Shut down the engine, there was some burping action and the coolant level went down, filled some more at the rad cap. Put new rad cap on.
9. check for leaks again and the feel the heater hoses for warm water.
10. take vehicle for a drive and check temperature and functionaing of heater, and the lower rad hose should be hot indicating that the new thermostat has opened and coolant is circulating.
Some Observations,
the new 180'F thermostart water hole is not on-center like the 190'F one, it still fits perfectly fine. the opening travel of the new thermostat is less than the old one. i.e. less fluid flow maybe?
I have an extra temp guage installed and the temp at idling is at 180'F, while normal driving to goes till 190'F. More when pushing,
So the needle moves aroung alot more than the older thermostat.
I have not had the chance to gives the new system a workout, but we will soon see how the temp behaves when going at QE2 at 120 K and 3000 RPM.
Thanks for reading, IF there is anything missing, please ask (apart from pics as camera is broken atm).
Ali.
I performed.
1. Coolant System Flush with Prestone Super Flush and Fill with Prestone long life coolant and de-ionized water $35.
2. Heater Hose replacement, I got 4 ft of 5/8" - 16 MM Heater hose from CDN Tire abot a $1.20 a foot and changed all the larger sized rubber hoses. Some were showing signs on leakage and balooning. Used a little bit of vaseline to get the rubber on.
3. Changed to a 180'F Thermostat for a 1986 2L Toyota diesel pickup truck. the part # is 90916-03099 (new). i got it from napa for 20 bucks. Donot forget to get the rubber gasket that goes around. I found all the related parts by using the new search feature on NAPA canada website. it is very good and usually gives a lot of information about the product like sizing etc.
4. New drain cock for a 1988 FJ6x is a suitable replacement. around $6. part # 16417-24200.
5. New radiator cap for the above vehicle works fine, 1640154750, $13 at NAPA. for a 0.9 BAR CAP.
6. Cleaned coolant resevoir with CLR, degraser to get rid of some scum inside. FLushed all little pipes.
The Procedure.
1. Set heater lever to hot. Drain old coolant by first opening the rad drain cock and then the engine block drain. The engine block drain is located below the fuel injector lines as they exit the injection pump. The bolt is 14 MM socket and BRASS in color. I for close to 8.5 litres out.
2. fill system with tap water and flushing product. start vehicle , check for leaks and fill some more. took truck for a small drive. after reaching normal operating temp, i.e. thermo has fully opened and coolant is circulatting completely. drive like this for 12 mins. park the vehicle and wait for it to cool off.
3. While is vehicle is coolinh, take reservoir bottle off and set it for cleaning. take the new thermostart inside house and test it by heating water in a pot, i used a digital BBQ probe for temperature reference.
4, by now vehicle has cooled enough, open rad cap and drain system at rad and engine block. My system was reasonable clean and no gunk etc came out. ( when i repaired the head 3 years ago, the rad was checked,cleaned by a rad shop and they said that it was really clean and no issues)
5. Remove all old hoses, and clean pipe ends. remove top rad hose. Remove the 3 12MM bolts holding water outlet. remove old thermostart and check body for any materials stuck inside the springs etc. Loosed and detach lower rad hose from radiator.
6. Back/Flush heater core, radiator and engine block with garden hose. mine were clear in a little while. push some compressed air to get more water out.
7. Put some de-ionized water through the system to get old tap water out. used 1/2 a jug for this.
8. put back the drain plugs, tighen all hoses. Put the new Thermostat with rubber seal, WITH THE JIGGLE VALVE AT THE 12'O CLOCK POSITION. It is really important as this hole bleeds the air out and helps to avoid an air pocket in the system. put water outlet back on with three bolts. Put top rad hose back on and clamp.
8. Start filling with coolant and de-ionized water, This will take cloe to 8 litres, so you can empty 1 jug of each. check for leaks again by looking under the truck, my lower hose was leaking little bit and repositioned and retightened the clamp. start the vehicle and check that temp lever is in FULL hot position, start filling little by little 3-4 times. Filled coolant reservoir bottle 1 inch above the FULL mark (when engine cools it sucks water back in). Shut down the engine, there was some burping action and the coolant level went down, filled some more at the rad cap. Put new rad cap on.
9. check for leaks again and the feel the heater hoses for warm water.
10. take vehicle for a drive and check temperature and functionaing of heater, and the lower rad hose should be hot indicating that the new thermostat has opened and coolant is circulating.
Some Observations,
the new 180'F thermostart water hole is not on-center like the 190'F one, it still fits perfectly fine. the opening travel of the new thermostat is less than the old one. i.e. less fluid flow maybe?
I have an extra temp guage installed and the temp at idling is at 180'F, while normal driving to goes till 190'F. More when pushing,
So the needle moves aroung alot more than the older thermostat.
I have not had the chance to gives the new system a workout, but we will soon see how the temp behaves when going at QE2 at 120 K and 3000 RPM.
Thanks for reading, IF there is anything missing, please ask (apart from pics as camera is broken atm).
Ali.
