LJ70 2l-T ignition clicks when turned to start then all electrical power is lost in car (1 Viewer)

[richmason]

Hi all,

Thought I had it all figured out with starter rebuild a few months ago. Got in a couple of road trips and now she is dead again. I realize that I had this problem before but it has become so bad that car is immobilized. Here is what happens. I turn the key to on and everything is good - glow plug light, gauges register, radio comes on, headlights work, etc. I turn to start, there is a loud click, and then all electrical power is lost - gauges dead, radio dead, headlights off, and obviously no ignition. If I turn it off and then back on power does not return at all. If I disconnect battery and then reconnect it, I get the original cycle of power and then click and then dead. If I connect with jumper cables to another running car, it doesn't click and go dead but there isn't enough power to start it. I have an IBS dual battery setup that masked it for a while - it would happen on starter battery but I could link them and it would start without 'clicking out'. Basically car would work if it received more amperage by having two batteries pushing out power. My voltage regulator is overcharging the batteries and I thought the issue was bad cells from batteries getting fried but I bought a new starter battery (it was 1.5 years old) yesterday and have same problem. After car goes dead, I can still confirm full voltage coming in to ignition switch in the black with red stripe wire with ignition iin off position. When I turn it to on, voltage in black with red stripe (main power to switch) drops to less than a volt and the same less than a volt is passed through to black with yellow stripe wire and blue with red stripe wire (not sure what each does but they are at close to full voltage when everything is working correctly. Seems like there is a circuit breaker or relay somewhere that is clicking out but I wasn't aware that such a relay existed. Is this a symptom of a bad ignition switch?

Thanks for any help y'all can provide.
Best,
Rich

 

[coldtaco]

voltage doesn't start a car, amps do. load check your batteries as starter. then go from there. there is a starter relay, or at least there should be one. make sure your fuseable links are all good, grounds are all good (both wire and surface).

 

[richmason]

voltage doesn't start a car, amps do. load check your batteries as starter. then go from there. there is a starter relay, or at least there should be one. make sure your fuseable links are all good, grounds are all good (both wire and surface).

I think I figured it out. We disconnected wires and relays until it stopped clicking off. Looks like it is the starter. Once I have it checked I will post final results.

Thanks!
Rich

 

[Dprio34]

@richmason , double check the ground on the starter. The starter ground is nearly impossible to see / inspect while the starter is bolted up. I'd bet this is your problem. Also, for peace of mind, inspect the main ground from battery to frame.

 

[richmason]

Ok I took the starter out again. There are three wires in total. One is power from the battery. One is ground I guess (white with black stripe) from the starter relay. The other is a wire that connects the solenoid to the starter body. The last wire stays together when you take the starter off. All of these are in good shape. There is one puzzle though: there is a threaded stud (see picture) on the black painted section that to the best of my knowledge has never had a wire on it while I've had the truck. Is this for a ground directly to the chassis or engine?

 

[Dprio34]

@richmason , I just went out to check my starter. It doesn't have that additional stud on the starter body. Looks like it could be an additional ground, but I couldn't say for sure.

When I had my issue with my starter, it was the ground wire that corresponds to the frayed sleeved wire with opaque plug on your starter.