LJ 78 problem

Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
163
Location
Pakistan
Website
www.pakwheels.com
Hello everyone this is my first thread as i have seen so many websites regarding 4x4 guru,s and found ih8mud to be the right place for me.
i have LJ78 1993 model with a 2LT-E engine well i bought it 6 years. 165K on the odo meter and i have overhauled its engine last year(overhauled it due to engine heat problem and less power,the engine head is also been replaced)now as summers arrived now again it is giving the same problem.so i am thinking to replace its engine.here are the choices and you guys can also guide me to the right engine for it.plus it is eating too much.in city 5 to 6 km and on highways it is giving me 6.5 to 7km\litre maximum.
1)1pz
2)2jz
3)2rz
any other choices guys and i also want the fuel averages for the engines.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2002
Messages
8,033
Location
Kamloops, BC Canada
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www.raddcruisers.ca
Your engine is consuming way too much fuel and that is likely what is causing the overheating issues.

Have your injectors tested for crack pressure and spray pattern, and if they are good, you should have a look at things like the MAP sensor, turbo boost pressure under load (aim for 10 - 12 PSI), and the valve setting. Also test the EGR function, or just disable it properly.

The valves must be set on a totally cold engine. The engine should be resting - not started, not even for a few seconds - for at least 18 to 24 hours depending on ambient temperature.

If ALL of those things check out okay, then you should probably investigate replacing the injection pump.


~John
 
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
163
Location
Pakistan
Website
www.pakwheels.com
Your engine is consuming way too much fuel and that is likely what is causing the overheating issues.

Have your injectors tested for crack pressure and spray pattern, and if they are good, you should have a look at things like the MAP sensor, turbo boost pressure under load (aim for 10 - 12 PSI), and the valve setting. Also test the EGR function, or just disable it properly.

The valves must be set on a totally cold engine. The engine should be resting - not started, not even for a few seconds - for at least 18 to 24 hours depending on ambient temperature.

If ALL of those things check out okay, then you should probably investigate replacing the injection pump.


~John
i have checked the fuel injectors 5 months back aand they were fine+spray pattern.
now the MAP,EGRand the turboboost presssure will be checked.
by the way thanks for the info:cool:
appericate that:bounce:
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
76
Location
Canada
2LT-E

I just got back from a short camping trip traveling from the Okanagan to Nakusp (600KM's round trip). I tracked the mileage and my LJ78 w/ 2LT-E ran an average 23 MPG. This includes idling to reduce turbo wear, 4 Wheeling up logging roads, and averaging between 90 and 115kph. I imagine I would have pulled in about 25MPG if I kept under 90kph and reduced idling. I think 22-27 MPG for this truck is the best you can ask for. I had a little too much fun on the wet logging roads; the wife started complaining a bit of motion sickness.

Before the trip I changed the oil and fuel filter in the truck. Since changing the fuel filter, sometimes I have to pump on the primer or the truck won't start. I can imagine some air got into the system during the filter change, but it's starting symptoms haven't cleared up entirely. Does anyone have a tip for me to get all the air out of the system? Prior to changing the fuel filter, I would start first attempt. Now it's every second or third attempt.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
788
Location
Auckland, New Zealand
Does anyone have a tip for me to get all the air out of the system? Prior to changing the fuel filter, I would start first attempt. Now it's every second or third attempt.

Unless you have disturbed anything else during the fuel filter change it can only be something with that.
It should self bleed once you have pumped it after filter change and feel resistance.
You may have not sealed the filter fully when spinning it on.
Also check the plastic drain bung bit that is on the bottom is fully home.
New seals can be tight... I usually lube them with a little grease to help them seat.

Oh and check the drain valve is fully closed....
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
76
Location
Canada
I unscrewed the fuel filter from the housing.
Drained the fuel from the filter into an empty glass jar.
Checked components for cracking. I couldn't see any cracks.
I cleaned up the orings.
I spun the drain cock oring around 90 degrees. (old trick to get an old o-ring to fit tight again).
I put everything back together, refilled the fuel filter with the fuel and screwed it back on.
Then I pumped it about 20 times. Turned the key on to warm up the glow plugs.
Pumped it another 10 times. Started up second try.
Went for a drive up to the corner store. Picked up some mail.
Sat outside the store for a few minutes. Started up first try.
Drove home. Parked it. Let it sit for an hour. Started up first try.
Let it sit in drive way for 4 hours. Started up first try, sputtered (puff of white smoke) sputtered again (puff of white smoke), one more sputter and then settled with no more smoke.

From what I understand, this is tolerable for an old vehicle like this.
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2004
Messages
22,180
Location
Tara Ontario
that bloody "E" system can cause irratic issues, it shouldn't but it does.:meh:
sounds fine from your description. :hmm:

here's to no more issues for you.:beer:
 

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