LJ 78 Engine change (1 Viewer)

[Peter Shaw]

Hi Everyone.

I have a 1993 LJ78 (Auto) and am in Botswana Africa. Unfortunately the head has cracked the same as many other so I am looking at the options to get going again. Looking at other's experience, the normal fix seems to be to fit a 3 Litre head. I assume this is from a 1 KZ-T. As the 2.4 TE with auto is pretty gutless I'd like to know what other Totota diesel engines will fit my LJ 78. Will the 1 KZ-T go straight in as I believe this was fitted to later models of the 78.
Looking forward to some good news

Peter

 

[brownbear]

The 3L head that has been fitted is not a 3 Litre engine. It is a 2.8 Litre engine. the 2L engine is a 2.4 litre and the 3.0 litres is called the 5L.

2rivers on here put a 3L head on his 2L-TE

 

[light_duty]

Yes, 1KZ-T head will not fit your 2L-TE. The 1KZ is a 3 Litre engine. As BB said, the 3L is 2.8 and the 3L head will fit your 2L-TE, though it was never designed for a turbo-charged engine. But plenty of folks have done that swap with no problems.

The cheapest and easiest route would be to replace the head with a new 2L-TE head or 3L head and up the boost, which should give you a little more pick-up. Make sure to add a pyrometer and boost gauge if you start messing with the boost.

 

[Peter Shaw]

2 LTE & 3L head

Thanks BB & LJ for the info which is a great help. There is a Jap import supplier here that advertises "brand new" heads for Toyota 2.4/2.8 so I will check out the cost. If the 3L head wasn't designed for a turbo then what is the difference between it and a 2.4 head? Do you know if there needs to be some modification done to the 3L head or does it go straight on.

There are a couple of reasons I am thinking of a bigger engine. As it's an auto, taking off is painfully slow untill the revs get up and the turbo kicks in. If I increase the boost I don't think this would help the takeoff performance? The other reason is the engine overheated when it ran out of water and I am concerned may have damaged the rings. I don't want to go to the trouble of fitting a new head and then find I will have to pull down to put new rings in. I thought I could fix both problems if there is a bigger engine that would go straight in. The local parts supplier also advertises 2nd hand 1KZTE, 3L and 5L engines so is why I asked if any of these would fit in

Regards

Peter

 

[brownbear]

Send 2rivers on here a private msg.

the difference with the head is one is indirect injected(3L). and the other is a direct injected engine.

Mosty turbo engines are direct injected. Why I dunno.

If you bought a 3L engine and standard tranny, you could afterwards put on the turbo off your old engine.

I have no idea if you can find 3L engines with the right bellhousing/shaft requirements. I don't know much about them.

Ideally fitting the 3L head sounds like the fastest fix. Try 2rivers for some info.. Search his name for threads. Maybe he did a thread on it.

 

[Peter Shaw]

Thanks Brownbear, I'll follow up the available parts from the supplier when they open tomorrow after new years holidays. As the new heads advertised are for 2.4/2.8 I'll have to find out if are two different heads or they have one for both engines.

Regards
Peter

 

[crushers]

the 3L head wil fit the 2.8/2.4LTE engines.
Dan sells the heads for $850-$950
Toyota can get the heads for $850
use this for a comparrison

 

[denis]

the difference with the head is one is indirect injected(3L). and the other is a direct injected engine.

None of the L or KZ series are direct injected. The lated KD series are direct but no sooner than 2000-ish and with electronic common-rail injection.

 

[Peter Shaw]

2LTE Oil & sludge in Turbo intake system

As I pulled my engine down to remove cracked head I discovered quite a bit of oil in the turbo and intake pipes and oily sludge in the intake manifold. Has anyone else had this and what was the problem? I have two ideas on it- The rings are broken/worn out and excessive blowby is pushing oil into the intake, or seal in the turbo has failed. As for the head, it has cracks between the intake and exhaust valves on 3 cylinders. I can buy brand new 2L or 3L heads and from what everyone says The 3L would be the safest???

Also I can't buy a manual here and need to rebuild the engine asap so I need the necessary specs, eg torque settings for head, big ends, valve clearances (I assume) Can someone give these to me or tell me where I can get them online?

Thanks

Peter

 

[crushers]

the blow through could be:
excessive idle time (japan or you). the seals do not get a chance to seal since they work off of pressure. the older turbos did not even have seals...drive the truck and don't excessive idle it for a while and see if the oil residue changes...
why can't you get a manual?

 

[light_duty]

If you or someone you know can read French, these will help you.

Chassis Manual for 7x Cruisers:
http://repairmanual.free.fr/manuel_chassis_serie7_1990.pdf

Torque and other specs for 2L-T:
http://membres.lycos.fr/stp30/MAP_2LT.pdf

The engine manual for the L-2L-2LT is available online in several pdfs on this page. Even if you can't read the French, you should still be able to ascertain the torque specs. I rebuilt the top end of my 2L-TE using this manual.
http://perso.orange.fr/adherence.4x...teur%20L%202L%202LT%201984%20(en%20fran%E7ais)

 

[light_duty]

Or try this one:

http://repairmanual.free.fr/manuel_moteur_2L_2LT_3L_5L_1997.pdf

 

[Peter Shaw]

2LTE big end & head tensioning

The cylinder head and big end/con rod bolt specs have Newton metres and then degrees specified. I haven't seen this procedure before but assume the degrees are how far around you turn the bar. I this correct? I have been able to work out some of the specs from the french manuals but still haven't found the valve clearances. can someone help?

Thanks

Peter

 

[denis]

that's it first you apply the recommended torque then you turn the additionnal angle.
Valve clearance with engine cold is 0.2-0.3mm for intake and 0.4-0.5mm for exhaust.

 

[Peter Shaw]

Thermo fan problem

I have now completely rebuilt my engine, new liners and pistons, new water pump, thermostat, red cap and new 3L head and it still is overheating. I am wondering if its the thermo fan? I assume they are supposed to freewheel when cold and engage when temp rises???? Can someone tell me if this is the case and if they have also had problems. Also How do you test it ?