LINE-X for the Tub. Is the price right? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter centerlineseal
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Are you doing it in black, or are you going color? The standard black is pretty cheap, but the XTRA stuff (color options) can add bump the price up something fierce.
My local guy is doing my 80 Series fender flares for $275, not a bad price, but add the color, and you add on an extra $200-300 for the color option of the XTRA on a small job like the flares.
My local guy is doing my 80 Series fender flares for $275, not a bad price, but add the color, and you add on an extra $200-300 for the color option of the XTRA on a small job like the flares.
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My pictures have armacoat sprayed in corando biege which is the fj40 original color. and yes it did add $505 to the cost.
Hey Chris if you ever wanna haelp with a 350 install or come see one or need help with yours, I'm in Uptown. Coincidentally I need to line my tub and I want to do it myself.
was quoted 700 here in Las Vegas a few days ago. am installing my cage next week and think it would be best to have the Line-X done previous to...suggestions?
I do not exactly have the $ to do this right now, but do HAVE to get this cage in!
advice needed!!!
I do not exactly have the $ to do this right now, but do HAVE to get this cage in!
advice needed!!!
by the way, thats for just the inside.
IPOR
IronPigOffroad.com
Have any of you had problems with the Line-X tape pulling up paint when they pull the tape off? We've had a lot of problems with that lately. We typically let the paint (which is baked in the booth) cure for about 4 weeks before bringing it to line-x. The inside of the tub is shot only in primer but the bed rails are done in base/clear so the line-x can be rolled over the paint edge. The interior is completely stripped (just a body bolted to the frame, nothing else) when we deliver to Line-x.
5 years ago we used to pay only $450 to shoot the inside of a 40 body tub. Now we pay almost $1000. Oddly enough we never had paint lifting problems when we paid $450, but it happens on almost every truck these days.
If you've done line-x and had no paint lifting at the tape line please let us know any special precautions you took.
I'm taking a truck to be line-x'd in about an hour...
Lance
5 years ago we used to pay only $450 to shoot the inside of a 40 body tub. Now we pay almost $1000. Oddly enough we never had paint lifting problems when we paid $450, but it happens on almost every truck these days.
If you've done line-x and had no paint lifting at the tape line please let us know any special precautions you took.
I'm taking a truck to be line-x'd in about an hour...
Lance
Can't comment on the price, but had my truck and trailer bed Linex'ed 3 yrs ago. It's tougher than nails. Have hauled rocks, pipes, and had pallets of blocks pushed over the top with no damage. I had to have a panel of the truck bed replaced. the shop had a lot of trouble getting the linex from the seam to weld in the new panel. Took the truck back to linex to have the area resprayed. $100 and I can't see that it was ever damaged.
I think I paid CAD$700, and that was in the fall of '04.
I had the tub interiour, underside & firewall done. The owner of the Rhinolining shop recommended putting bolts into threaded holes, as they remove really easily with a wrench when you're done.
Lance;
I had my tub painted two weeks previous to the rhino lining. I only had a 3x3mm paint chip lift, I think that may have partly been my poor prep in one little area. The Rhino-guys used a tape for masking the edge of the bedliner that had a wire in it. Soon after the liner was sprayed, you pulled the wire to 'cut' the liner into a nice clean edge, and the thick overspray on the masking paper was free to peel away.
I'm really happy with how mine turned out.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
I had the tub interiour, underside & firewall done. The owner of the Rhinolining shop recommended putting bolts into threaded holes, as they remove really easily with a wrench when you're done.
Lance;
I had my tub painted two weeks previous to the rhino lining. I only had a 3x3mm paint chip lift, I think that may have partly been my poor prep in one little area. The Rhino-guys used a tape for masking the edge of the bedliner that had a wire in it. Soon after the liner was sprayed, you pulled the wire to 'cut' the liner into a nice clean edge, and the thick overspray on the masking paper was free to peel away.
I'm really happy with how mine turned out.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
Lance, green paint will always have a chance at lifting. Only suggestion I have is to use the 3m tape, or even their painters tape. When it is pulled pull it towardsthe front on the tape line, not away from the truck. Does that make sense? Basically as you pull, the tape should fold over itself in the direction you are pulling. All force is applied laterally, not actually pulling on the paint. We always had customers sign waivers stating about paint lifting on green paint. Never really had a problem with it, though. Good luck. TIm
**edit** Not the color green. Green as in fresh.
IPOR
IronPigOffroad.com
So we went to line-x and paid them a lot of money to do their job for them.
We taped all of the cut lines and dash with 3M tape instead of letting them use their "line-x brand" tape. The line-x brand tape is really cheap stuff - very aggressive adhesive, tears and separates like dollar store tape. After they sprayed and pulled the wire tape we pulled the rest. No paint lifting at all. (and some pieces were painted as recently as the night before.
I asked them to run the wire tape which is approx 1/4" wide, half on the 3M tape. They didn't. Instead they ran it right along the edge of the 3M tape, so we actually had some spots where they were entirely on the 3M tape and line-x'd right over the tape. This left some spots where I had line-x pinning the tape down. That was the only problem we had and it could have been avoided if the guy doing the taping had more than a 3rd grade education. (we spent 10 minutes talking about where to tape the rear doors at in order to ensure there would be no problems with misalignment due to line-x adding thickness to the panels, and he calls me 3 hours after I left asking, "do you want me to shoot the rear doors?") Sorry, I'm normally more understanding of this sort of thing but we do a lot of business with this line-x shop and I'm really worn out over all of the problems like this that could be easily avoided.
Anyway, I'm happy to have developed a process to protect the paint from lifting - but disappointed in the quality of work this particular line-x shop did on this job. This underscores the need to pre-qualify your local line-x dealer and make sure they're good before they spray your truck.
Hope this helps those of you looking to do this down the road.
We taped all of the cut lines and dash with 3M tape instead of letting them use their "line-x brand" tape. The line-x brand tape is really cheap stuff - very aggressive adhesive, tears and separates like dollar store tape. After they sprayed and pulled the wire tape we pulled the rest. No paint lifting at all. (and some pieces were painted as recently as the night before.
I asked them to run the wire tape which is approx 1/4" wide, half on the 3M tape. They didn't. Instead they ran it right along the edge of the 3M tape, so we actually had some spots where they were entirely on the 3M tape and line-x'd right over the tape. This left some spots where I had line-x pinning the tape down. That was the only problem we had and it could have been avoided if the guy doing the taping had more than a 3rd grade education. (we spent 10 minutes talking about where to tape the rear doors at in order to ensure there would be no problems with misalignment due to line-x adding thickness to the panels, and he calls me 3 hours after I left asking, "do you want me to shoot the rear doors?") Sorry, I'm normally more understanding of this sort of thing but we do a lot of business with this line-x shop and I'm really worn out over all of the problems like this that could be easily avoided.
Anyway, I'm happy to have developed a process to protect the paint from lifting - but disappointed in the quality of work this particular line-x shop did on this job. This underscores the need to pre-qualify your local line-x dealer and make sure they're good before they spray your truck.
Hope this helps those of you looking to do this down the road.
- Thread starter
- #32
Well, after starting this thread and feeling a lot like the previous poster, I ended doing my own using Herculiner. I've only done under the tub, using the experience to figure it out a bit. Did it all by hand and with a roller and we are very happy with the results. At least, if it doesn't hold the rust at bay, its my own fault. Under the tranny hump and the front fenders is next.
Probably have 12 to 15 manhours in prep work and about the same in applying two coats.
Next step is to install the tub on the chassis, then do the rear of the inside, over wheel wells and the like, which eventually will be plated over (to created lockable storage between the wheelwells) and hidden from sight.
If we are satisfied with our product, then we will do the visible cab portion ourselves. If not, then we'll have just that part done professionally.
Probably have 12 to 15 manhours in prep work and about the same in applying two coats.
Next step is to install the tub on the chassis, then do the rear of the inside, over wheel wells and the like, which eventually will be plated over (to created lockable storage between the wheelwells) and hidden from sight.
If we are satisfied with our product, then we will do the visible cab portion ourselves. If not, then we'll have just that part done professionally.
I drove my 40 to the LineX guy this afternoon and was told the price for inside the tub only, started at $650. Add $100 for gray if I wanted that. This was with me stripping everything out of the inside, but not doing the actual prep. In fact, he said they wouldn't even take the job if the truck had been painted on the inside with anything other than factory paint or a very expensive paint job ($2k and up). No MAACO. I thought that was pretty steep myself. I was expecting about $450.
Lance, that looks like "your" truck....Is that the stretched 40 on an 80 series tub with the plate steel flares?
With as much work as you do, maybe you guys should get your own franchise to control your quality.
Barry
With as much work as you do, maybe you guys should get your own franchise to control your quality.
Barry
i was quoted 700 for mine with minimal prep...laaame
If you plan on running a top be sure not to linex the rails between the top and where it connects to the tub. I made the mistake of doing this and now the doors don't seal right because the top sits higher now.
Sounds like you also sell "quikliner". How about a pic of that on your 40 for us to see?
I have an extra bedliner spray machine for sale or trade if anyone is interested. I'm gonna post as soon as I can get the site to work. It won't let me post a new ad. Keeps throwing up different pages telling me my account is not activated or something like that. Anyone know how to fix it?
You guys need to remember that the labor involved in the prep work and the masking is the most costly part of a liner. If it's not prepped perfectly, it will not last. If it's not masked perfectly, it will look terrible and cause a major pain to repair the places that were not to be lined. Then you've got bolt holes and misc parts that need to be covered before the liner goes in. Then add a steady hand, the proper mixture, the right pressure, and someone with a good eye and attention to detail for proper coverage and a quality product. Then after all that, it gets unmasked, all the holes uncorked, and everything put back together. And that's just a clean tub or bed! If it's a dirty tub, or has rust, or glue from carpet....all that stuff plays a major role in the prep work and add alot of labor. Sometimes it's cheaper to have someone sodablast the tub to bare metal, then shoot it in primer or paint than it is to have someone spend a few days prepping the dirty tub so that the liner will stick.
If you decide to go DIY, you should check out:
Al's Liner::Ultimate Automotive Coatings
and
https://www.grizzlygrip.com/index.asp
I am in the middle of a restomod and I will be using one of the above mentioned products for the inside and underside of my tub. I have no personal experience with either of them but they both seem light years ahead of Herculiner. If anyone has used them, I would love some feedback.
Al's Liner::Ultimate Automotive Coatings
and
https://www.grizzlygrip.com/index.asp
I am in the middle of a restomod and I will be using one of the above mentioned products for the inside and underside of my tub. I have no personal experience with either of them but they both seem light years ahead of Herculiner. If anyone has used them, I would love some feedback.
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