- Thread starter
- #21
In those pictures did you do anything with the front, or just the rear spacers? I really like it.
Lift or stay?
- Thread starter corleykj
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- Thread starter
- #24
Ok, you used low mileage Torsion Bars that were original equpment, and 866's in teh rear with spacers and have 2.25" in the front and 2.8" in the rear. Again, sorry to be a bother, but can you send me pics please or post some?
Thanks.
What problems are caused with lifting besides CV leakage? What parts are "required"? I'm confused as I'm running 100% stock suspension (minus shocks) and my truck sees
more abuse on the street than 99% of the rigs do offroad in the 100 section
Alignment issues. Many have reported this. What you consider acceptable might not be considered the same by others. Also, you need a cv boot solution. As you go up in height, many purchase UCAs, bump stops, diff drops, sway bar extenders, panhard rod extenders, 4.88 gears, spacers, fender trimming and on and on. What I am saying is that every mod to raise height comes with it's pluses and minuses. Granted, you havent done a lot to your suspension but I can assure you as you start you start adding things, you would best be served by adding other things to correct the things you added in the first place.
- Thread starter
- #26
To lift a little more, or leave?
Anyone else out there want to give me some input? Does it look stupid the way it is? Should I lift it a little more with 285/75r16's that are on it?
Maybe just some rear springs, and hope it doesn't give it too much dragster look?
Again, the front has been leveled as much as they can without the torsion bars being reindexed.
Thanks for all the input so far.
Anyone else out there want to give me some input? Does it look stupid the way it is? Should I lift it a little more with 285/75r16's that are on it?
Maybe just some rear springs, and hope it doesn't give it too much dragster look?
Again, the front has been leveled as much as they can without the torsion bars being reindexed.
Thanks for all the input so far.
corleykj said:
I have 3.2" of lift in the rear and 2.8" in the front. My suspension is maxed out. Your rig looks fine, you need to dictate ride height and spring rates depending on vehicle load and terrain. I wheel very hard and on rocks so having maximum clearance is vital. If I did not wheel I would not have this much lift.
pfran42 said:
60K on a 1.5" lift. 15K on a 2.5"+ with no diff drop and I run a strong negative camber for better handling on road. I have beat the living snot out of the front end with all stock components and jumped it countless times. I'd say that long list of things you mentioned is "optional". Yes, its important upgrades that vastly improve the front end but by no means "needed". To each his own really. I'll never run a diff drop.
I think it looks fine the way it is and sounds like that is all the lift you need. I agree with Pfran and 2000UZJ both in a way, there are and can be side effects to lifting depending on how much. Again this comes down to what you want to do with the truck. Any time you change the configuration you run the risk of issues , small or big. But sometimes its not the truck its the people who then work on said modified truck like having your land cruiser aliment tuned like a 4 runner. (ask 2000UZJ) or having some service department say "must be your suspension set up".
If I were in your shoes, I would leave the front EXACTLY where it is, then I would add some Firestone Air Bags to the rear coils as helpers.
When you install the bags, you simply use a hand saw to cut about 3 of the "pucks" off the conical bumpstops located inside the coil springs. Flatten out the bags, attach a piece of hose to the bag, then insert everything into the coil spring. You can lift one side of the truck at a time to flex out that side's spring to make it easier too.
Once both bags are in place, run the hoses to the rear tow hitch area and find a location to mount the schraeder valves.
Air up each bag to about 5PSIG and you'll get about 1/2" lift. Air up to about 15PSIG and you can get 1" lift. More air pressure increases your ride stiffness and also increases your load capacity.
You can spend $100 for the bags with the manual valves, or you can go all out and add the complete system that has the mini-compressor, in-cab gauge, and in-cab controls for under $400.
Works like a charm.
When you install the bags, you simply use a hand saw to cut about 3 of the "pucks" off the conical bumpstops located inside the coil springs. Flatten out the bags, attach a piece of hose to the bag, then insert everything into the coil spring. You can lift one side of the truck at a time to flex out that side's spring to make it easier too.
Once both bags are in place, run the hoses to the rear tow hitch area and find a location to mount the schraeder valves.
Air up each bag to about 5PSIG and you'll get about 1/2" lift. Air up to about 15PSIG and you can get 1" lift. More air pressure increases your ride stiffness and also increases your load capacity.
You can spend $100 for the bags with the manual valves, or you can go all out and add the complete system that has the mini-compressor, in-cab gauge, and in-cab controls for under $400.
Works like a charm.
I love the appearance and off road clearance my 2.5'' lift gives, but i have to admit the lift defiantly changes the feel of the front....loose is a good description, but it's subtle . And from what I can tell, I'm straight eating up some tires atm.
Recently added a bumper and then crank the tbars to compensate for the extra weight. Before cranking, I was at an inch lower on the front, now I'm at a half inch lower which has resulted in a nasty binding at full turn. Gotta get under there this weekend and see what's up.
Recently added a bumper and then crank the tbars to compensate for the extra weight. Before cranking, I was at an inch lower on the front, now I'm at a half inch lower which has resulted in a nasty binding at full turn. Gotta get under there this weekend and see what's up.
- Thread starter
- #32
I thought about the air bags, I had them on an old Ford f250. I never hauled too much weight, so it didn't matter much. The only compaint I have heard about airbags was the old range rover air bags. I worked at a carshop and we were always replacing those with traditional springs because the air bags they had sucked. The airbags would a way to have a good ride unloaded, and add air when I am going to haul a load.
I would crank your factory tbars, install new shocks and buy some OME 865 coils. This will give you a nice 2" lift with a very close to factory ride. With this setup you don't need a diff drop and you don't open up the can of worms Pfran refers to once you go bigger.
If you lift 2 inches you will likely need a diff drop because of cv angles and driveline vibrations. I had lots of grease at the boots and vibrations over 60 mph until I installed the diff drop. Now I only have mild vibration between 65-67 mph and no more grease at the boots.
)
That's what I did. Although I can't less than 1.5" of rake without haven't less than 2.5" of suspension droop. When I had 2.25" of droop, the ride was terrible on the highway.
Anyone else have this problem? I'm at 20.25" Top of center cap to fender in the rear and 18.75" in the front. Sometimes it looks normal sometimes it looks major stink bug, might depend on the road angle.
Here's my '03 Land Cruiser with 1.5" of lift (rear coil spring spacer and front torsion bars cranked to match) with 275/70-18 BFG AT's. 21" from center of hub to fender lip. Anything greater than that and I get torque steer and the shocks top out. I plan on adding Air Lift bags in the rear before a few family trips this Summer to help the stock springs keep things level.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/91953-mud-100-series-photos-thread-129.html#post6052800
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/91953-mud-100-series-photos-thread-129.html#post6052800
Yours looks absolutely perfect. If I had another 100, I would set it up just like yours.
Here is 4Peanut's truck for reference:
How is everyone running 2 or 2.5 inches of lift, keeping everything appearing close to level, and still maintaining enough droop (without aftermarket UCA's)? I've got a 1.5 inch spacer in the rear and my front sits at 21" from hub center to fender lip (2.5 inches of droop). About a .5 inch rake. Anything greater than 21" up front and I don't have enough droop and the truck does not handle well (I've put up with torque steer and my shocks topping out for a while, but after a torn CV boot I installed a Slee Diff Drop and started backing off the torsion bar a full turn at a time until I got to 21"). If I added another .5 or 1 inches of lift in the rear, and kept the front where it needs/wants to be, I'd have 1 to 1.5 inches of rake. I don't like that much rake.