Lift Kits, the good kind (1 Viewer)

[Mudder]

So a lot of people out there want lifted trucks. This thread is to help you figure out everything you need to do it right. Lift wise, all the components. OME has a good start with their complete lifts (no you don't have to use OME, they're list is just good for reference) along with this list I'd add u-joints and obviously gearing. If anyone else has any input feel free to post it.
2 - CS008FA Emu Dakar Front Leaf Springs
2 - N84 Front OME Nitrocharger Shock Absorber
2 - CS009R Emu Dakar Rear Leaf Springs
2 - N85/89/94/95 Rear Nitrocharger Shock Absorber (N85/89 gives firmer ride & positive feel)
4 - SB5/SB6 OME Poly Spring Bushing Kits
1 - OMEGS4 OME Greasable Front Shackle Kit
1 - OMEGS3 OME Greasable Rear Shackle Kit
2 - OME GP3 OME Greasable Pin Kit
1- OME FK09/13 Anti Inversion Kit
1 - OMESD21 OME Steering Stabilizer
8 - OMEU52/53 OME U-Bolts & Nuts

 

[KLF]

When I bought my OME stuff way back in '99, the front springs were R/L specific, is this still the case?

The "anti-inversion kit" is just a couple of chunks of steel that you would on the rear spring hanger, I never put them on, no issues.

Where is the best place to buy now?

 

[Mudder]

Best place I'm finding is cruiser outfitters and I believe they still are R/L

 

[SFROMAN]

I just ordered my OME 2.5 kit from the guys from Cruiseroutfitters. I went with the light springs not the heavys. I drive 4 door hilux toyotas all over the world and we have the heavy springs on them. Yes, the trucks can carry some weight but when they are not loaded down the suspension is a little rough for my taste.

My truck will be more of a daily driver and light trail truck so that is another reason I did not go with the heavys.

Del

 

[Mudder]

I was thinking of going with the lights but my flatbed will weight 400-600 pounds then my front will be 185iah with my 8274 on it. Otherwise I would've gone with the lights.

 

[KLF]

I really need the heavies up front with a winch and heavy bumper. I have Bilstein 5100s now, but I might think about the Nitro shocks.

 

[Toast]

CS0008 FA is driver side which is slightly over factory spec ( Has a + sign) and CS0008 FB is passenger side which slightly under factory spec ( Has a - sign). This is to correct the lean a Toyota has due to the driver side spring perch being up higher than the passenger. My truck still barely leans..... Would recommend adding a trim packer.

 

[Toast]

A few other things to consider when runner the OME kit.....

Your gonna need longer shocks

Your gonna need extended brake lines ( even though your thinking you don't.... Ask me how I know )

You don't necessarily need to run the anti inversion shackles but don't run anything longer than a 4" or 5" shackle... Your rig will be higher up in the rear.

Take note of the +, -, and O signs on the springs they indicate stiffer, softer or factory spec. When I ordered my set I got 1 + rear spring and 1 O rear spring... I don't know why but inquire when you order.

 

[Mudder]

I honestly won't run the anti, not with running 31's on a DD and hunting rig, as for brake lines do them. It's easier to get the parts and return then find out after all the auto parts places have closed you need longer brake lines.

 

[Toast]

I'd imagine the ride on 4runners would be softer but on my empty bed it's rough... Take note that your shackle angle will be kinda straight up and down..... I'm probably going to go Chevy rears soon

Oh and make sure you weld the plates in between your spring perches on your front axle and make sure you run the special u bolts for the front driver side axle.

Be sure to run your front track bar.... You will get bump steer if you don't

 

[KLF]

Oh and make sure you weld the plates in between your spring perches on your front axle...

Not sure what you mean by this...

and make sure you run the special u bolts for the front driver side axle.

Be sure to run your front track bar.... You will get bump steer if you don't

This is only true if you're still running the factory push-pull steering, on a solid axle truck. If you've swapped to Hi-steer or done a SAS on an IFS truck, they are not needed.

 

[Toast]

Not sure what you mean by this...



This is only true if you're still running the factory push-pull steering, on a solid axle truck. If you've swapped to Hi-steer or done a SAS on an IFS truck, they are not needed.

Ok so if you look at your front spring perches head on theres the top where the spring rides and the bottom where the u bolt plate sits. The spring perch over time gets distorted and tends to bend down. These plates get welded in between the spring perch and the u bolt perch to keep the spring perch ridged. Hope that helps.

Also yes cross over steering you won't get bump steer when you remove the trac bar

 

[MatS]

I'll chime in...

Diesel is using heavy springs Dakar front and medium springs Dakar rear
Truck is RHD so I did order specific left and right springs for my application through 4 wheel auto wholesale in Edmonton
No anti inversion stuff on my truck and never wrapped.
Did not use OME shackle, found cadmium plated greasable shackles with poly bushings from another supplier
Nitro shocks are great in my opinion, firm ride but that's expected for the truck
Really need to order the steering stabilizer, wheel wants to tear out of my hands offroad
I switched to stainless extended brake lines when leafs were installed, custom order

 

[muddpigg]

Don't no these brands but typically more arch without longer springs means rougher ride without custom springs. Set up depends on what you want to do with rig. Longer springs give more flex, but require more work for installation. If your not a SFA truck then the work is not much more for longer springs on SAS.