Lexus LX470 Speaker Upgrade/Install w/ Pics (1 Viewer)

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I was going to upgrade my speakers using the following link (which was a huge help)

speaker install writeup

Except the LX470 is bit different than the LC. To start, each speaker has its own ported enclosure (speakers and enclosure were Pioneer brand). Also, this enclosure takes up a bunch of space in the door, so you have to get creative on where to put crossovers.

I had to trim the inside of each enclosure (front and rear speakers have similar enclosures) to make each speaker bed and seal properly (use the gasket new speakers come with). Drill new holes into the enclosure and mount new speakers. Pretty simple. The crossovers would not fit at the bottom of the doors as with the LC models - but they do fit just above each enclosure just fine. Used tape for automotive molding to install the crossovers and the tweeters.

Make sure you buy low profile speakers, otherwise they will not fit in the enclosure. I had about 2 1/8.
New sound is much better - what you would expect when replacing 20 year old speakers w/ new ones.

Enclosure w/ original Pioneer speakers.

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Enclosure is deep, but includes porting in the back, so clearance is not as deep as it appears.

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I trimmed out the inside of the enclosure to fit the new speaker basket. Note, this picture shows the just the top of the enclosure, as I took it apart to trim it out.


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New speaker installed. Used existing wiring.


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New speaker installed and in door. Crossover mounted w/ double sided tape. Barely fits.


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Look nice. Did you manage to fit tweeters in the stock location?
 
NICE! The tweeters for my Focal separates would not fit there.
 
NICE! The tweeters for my Focal separates would not fit there.
I trimmed out the inside of the factory tweeter cover a bit to make the fit a bit less snug. There is a lot of material you can take off the inside of the factory cover to get more space. Not sure if you tried that.
 
Same speakers front and rear?

What stereo option did you have?

Did you give any thought to NOT running the new crossover? Isnt the amp already working as the crossover only sending mids to the drivers and his to the tweeters?
 
I had it done and didn't do myself, when I replace the focals I will do it myself and check it out, thanks!
 
Same speakers front and rear?

What stereo option did you have?

Did you give any thought to NOT running the new crossover? Isnt the amp already working as the crossover only sending mids to the drivers and his to the tweeters?

I have the standard factory head unit - not the optional upgraded version (not sure if it was even available in 1998).

Rears are same brand but are coax w/ tweeter over the woofer. Those are plug and play w/ no re-wiring. The factory amp does not have a crossover, as the factory tweeter has its own capacitor mounted on it, cutting off the mid/low frequencies. There are two sets of wires in the door - both running the same full range frequencies. I picked the set running to the woofer and ran it to the crossover instead. From there I ran to the tweeter and woofer. Worked perfectly.
 
I have the standard factory head unit - not the optional upgraded version (not sure if it was even available in 1998).

Rears are same brand but are coax w/ tweeter over the woofer. Those are plug and play w/ no re-wiring. The factory amp does not have a crossover, as the factory tweeter has its own capacitor mounted on it, cutting off the mid/low frequencies. There are two sets of wires in the door - both running the same full range frequencies. I picked the set running to the woofer and ran it to the crossover instead. From there I ran to the tweeter and woofer. Worked perfectly.


Thanks for the response. very helpfull
 
Nice install. Id love to make something like this happen on my '06. What year is your truck? I take it this was pre Mark Levingston system.....
 
i just realized that you put 6.5s in the space that was originally intended for 5.25. Do you have any weird characteristics slightly covering that port? How where you able to get a good seal around the bottom of the speakers when it is now resting on an uneven surface?

I am currently spec'ing out my stereo overhaul and am hung up whether to go with the original 5.25 size up front since that is what the pod was designed for or to go 6.5 to try to move more air.
 
My stock speakers were more like 6" than 5 1/4. All I had to do was make room for the Polks slightly larger metal basket. The speakers were close in size but the Polks basket (frame and magnet) were slightly larger. They barely covered the port, and because the size of the enclosure is fairly large with internal dampening material, the new speakers sounded great. Sealing was no problem. Used gaskets from new speakers to help seal between speaker and enclosure. The bass from new speakers is better. Not boomy, just fuller.
 
My stock speakers were more like 6" than 5 1/4. All I had to do was make room for the Polks slightly larger metal basket. The speakers were close in size but the Polks basket (frame and magnet) were slightly larger. They barely covered the port, and because the size of the enclosure is fairly large with internal dampening material, the new speakers sounded great. Sealing was no problem. Used gaskets from new speakers to help seal between speaker and enclosure. The bass from new speakers is better. Not boomy, just fuller.

I am not a car stereo expert. More of a hobby. But doing it for 25 years, so I get what "good" sound should be. The 6 1/2 worked great in front and back. They are also more efficient than stock. Plan on replacing the stock amp, head unit, and sub next.
 
I am planning on doing it all at once now. first plan was door speakers and the audiopipe sub. on the way home from work the ither day pushing the volume i must have overheated the amp becuase i lost 4 of the 5 channels. after shutting down and letting it rest its been fine since. factoring in replacing the amp now changes the speakers and sub choices.
 
I am planning on doing it all at once now. first plan was door speakers and the audiopipe sub. on the way home from work the ither day pushing the volume i must have overheated the amp becuase i lost 4 of the 5 channels. after shutting down and letting it rest its been fine since. factoring in replacing the amp now changes the speakers and sub choices.
Good luck! I already have a sound stream Picasso 5 channel. Will use a kicker 6 3/4 low profile sub.
 
I have the standard factory head unit - not the optional upgraded version (not sure if it was even available in 1998).

Rears are same brand but are coax w/ tweeter over the woofer. Those are plug and play w/ no re-wiring. The factory amp does not have a crossover, as the factory tweeter has its own capacitor mounted on it, cutting off the mid/low frequencies. There are two sets of wires in the door - both running the same full range frequencies. I picked the set running to the woofer and ran it to the crossover instead. From there I ran to the tweeter and woofer. Worked perfectly.

Mine is a 1998. Pre Mark L.

I am not a car stereo expert. More of a hobby. But doing it for 25 years, so I get what "good" sound should be. The 6 1/2 worked great in front and back. They are also more efficient than stock. Plan on replacing the stock amp, head unit, and sub next.

So you are not running the Nakamichi head unit and amp? I will be interested in your next moves...
 

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