Lexus dealer adamant not to change AHC fluid

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M

mbusa1

10 Year
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Hey guys. Just bought a 2000 LX470, a couple posters recommended replacing the AHC fluid and the transfluid. I just wanted to get an estimate on how much it would be seeing how the fluid itself would be around 100 dollars. They said that the trans fluid would be 200 dollars.

But the head technician at this high volume dealership said not to replace the AHC fluid, he said that unless there was a problem with the truck it's not worth risking it. He said that the bolts are seized in the actuators and when they take them out they might break. And then I would have to buy a whole new actuator.

Is this true?
 
Your owner's manual advises changing the fluid, iirc, every 60K for normal driving or 30K for hard (lots of low speed, trailer pulling , etc.) mileage.

The only "bolts" that are affected are the 5 bleeder bolts for the AHC system, and they're only loosened a half a turn or so.

Were it my LX, I'd change the fluid religiously...and my bad if I don't.

You'll need 2 cans, and you'll have some left over. ;)

Steve
 
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I can understand the dealers aversion to changing out your AHC fluid if the bleed nipples (x5) are indeed seized and corroded. A simple, straight forward job could incur a big time penalty if they busted one or more bleeders and had to extract it. Having to replace a damper assembly or the height accumulator due to a stripped or sheared bleeder is probably a bit extreme though. I'd squirt penetrating oil on each fitted bleeder for a few days then, with a good quality 10mm ring spanner, gently attempt to crack them open. How much force? enough not to shear the bolt. If they are really frozen in place or corroded to the point you can't get any purchase on the bleeder then the next step likely involves heat, perseverance and extractor tools.
 
I got a similar response from my Lexus dealer as well so I just did it myself. I followed the instructions posted in the FAQ section and they were spot on. As many say it does take two cans and you'll have a little bit left over. I used a turkey baster to extract as much as I could from the reservoir and then bled the rest out of the system. I did make two robust low profile ramps out of 2 by 12's to make it easier to get under the car, used both ramps on the same side and moved them around as I worked around the car. It took me about 1.5 hours but I was taking my time and it was also my first time doing it. My other advice is to make sure the tubing is a little warm so it slides over the nipple completely, otherwise you will have a mess on your hands - wear eye protection.
 
So are they also willing to warranty the system if it fails early due to improper maintenance? Sounds like the technician got burned once before and wants to shift the risk back to you. A competent tech should be able to tell pretty quickly if they're seized and make a judgment call at that time. To carte blanche reject the maintenance request is silly.

Ever since brands have included started including 'free' maintenance for the first X years they appear to be drilling into the techs the value of 'lifetime' fluids. Unfortunately the 'lifetime' is of the warranty, not the vehicle. I'm old-school when it comes to these items. No fluid lasts forever.
 
I understand the shop's mentality. I used to dread customers with rust buckets (not that yours is that rusty), because it was always "here we go" with them. Anytime a bolt seized or a caliper stuck, it was somehow the dealer or brand's fault. Sounds like they were looking out for you a bit. If you are okay with potentially stripping or shearing the valves, then definitely get the fluid changed.

Shops that say don't change fluids if there is not a failure are either confused, don't want to work/make money, or both.
 
TXLX100 said:
I understand the shop's mentality. I used to dread customers with rust buckets (not that yours is that rusty), because it was always "here we go" with them. Anytime a bolt seized or a caliper stuck, it was somehow the dealer or brand's fault. Sounds like they were looking out for you a bit. If you are okay with potentially stripping or shearing the valves, then definitely get the fluid changed.

Shops that say don't change fluids if there is not a failure are either confused, don't want to work/make money, or both.
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Spot on. There was an similar thread 6 or 7 months ago, difference here is the OP states up front the dealer didn't want to risk owning a busted bleed plug. New bleeder plugs run at $1.66 each, worth the effort to free them up with penetrating oil and then replace.
 
OregonLC said:
So are they also willing to warranty the system if it fails early due to improper maintenance? Sounds like the technician got burned once before and wants to shift the risk back to you. A competent tech should be able to tell pretty quickly if they're seized and make a judgment call at that time. To carte blanche reject the maintenance request is silly.

Ever since brands have included started including 'free' maintenance for the first X years they appear to be drilling into the techs the value of 'lifetime' fluids. Unfortunately the 'lifetime' is of the warranty, not the vehicle. I'm old-school when it comes to these items. No fluid lasts forever.
Click to expand...

I had a BMW X5 4.4i that had a "lifetime" fluid for the transmission. I requested multiple times it be changed when I brought it in for service and they refused. On a very good X5 forum I learned that most X5 4.4i transmissions were needing to be replaced or rebuilt between 100-140k. Guess lifetime fluid means it's good for about 100-140k :D I had it from 20k to 98k before I traded it in. The first 60k miles were relatively painless, the last 18k were absolutely a disaster due in part to "lifetime" fluids (no I fortunately didn't have any transmission problems probably because of when I got rid of it).
 
I'm typically not a conspiracy theorist, but this almost seems like a deliberate intent to create a demand for new vehicles. When I was a kid, 100k miles was considered end of life, a no-man's land for used car buyers. Now Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans and others fetch a solid price at 150k. Makes me wonder if modern quality control has produced potential vehicle longevity much longer than desirable for the manufacturer. Solution? Extend the maintenance intervals to 'save' the owner's costs and have them trade in on a new one before parts start failing.

That, or I'm trying to justify my over-maintenance tendencies. :steer:
 
Make sure to use a nice 6 point wrench or socket instead of a cheaper 12 point combo wrench. Replace the bleeders too as mentioned...
 
PADDO said:
Spot on. There was an similar thread 6 or 7 months ago, difference here is the OP states up front the dealer didn't want to risk owning a busted bleed plug. New bleeder plugs run at $1.66 each, worth the effort to free them up with penetrating oil and then replace.
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From what I understood and what they told me. They said that if the bolts do get stripped, that means that eventually you would need to replace an actuator.
 
OregonLC said:
I'm typically not a conspiracy theorist, but this almost seems like a deliberate intent to create a demand for new vehicles. When I was a kid, 100k miles was considered end of life, a no-man's land for used car buyers. Now Toyotas, Hondas, Nissans and others fetch a solid price at 150k. Makes me wonder if modern quality control has produced potential vehicle longevity much longer than desirable for the manufacturer. Solution? Extend the maintenance intervals to 'save' the owner's costs and have them trade in on a new one before parts start failing.

That, or I'm trying to justify my over-maintenance tendencies. :steer:
Click to expand...

I think some of the extended maintenance intervals comes from brands trying to compete with one another. When one does it, the others follow suit. That and some of the fluids are a bit better. I say from experience, it's bad for dealer service departments. I started making less and less money from customer pay maintenance and more from Lexus recalls/service campaigns (overall less money). It got to the point where I was basically trying to sell details, tint, extended warranties, alignments and tires because selling oil changes every 10k for $150 wasn't a grand proposition.

Fluids are cheap insurance.
 
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