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- #61
A nut and bolt from cdn tire works in a pinch. Fully regreasable ,lol 
Lee777 1991 LJ 78 Prado Build
- Thread starter Lee777
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- #62
Adapters from Radd fitted:
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- #63
All back together now. I still have to paint the front panel black. Also have a new turbo that has to be installed. I plan in cleaning out the gunk in the inlet and am considering a catch can. Still not sure its worth the investment.
That there is CRAZY TALK!
I've said the same to myself many a time. Yet I keep 'investing'.....haha.
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- #65
That there is CRAZY TALK!
I've said the same to myself many a time. Yet I keep 'investing'.....haha.
Right????!!!
Often times its like Im investing in satisfying my OCD!!!
Not sure if this has been posted elsewhere. A non-toyota air filter equivalent from lordco is
PA4328 (Baldwin make) 32$!!
That reminds me. I am supposed to be making a list of all the cross reference parts for the 2LTE and I never did. I run the Baldwin air filter as well.
If you ever feel down, run through every one of the 24 pages of this build. Guy takes a super run down LJ78 and builds probably the best example of any LJ I've seen. Huge amounts of fabrication, restoration and modification: LJ78 Build Thread
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- #68
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- #69
I installed the CT20 turbo Turbo Charger For Toyota Hilux Hiace 4Runner 2.4L 2L-T 17201-54060 CT20 Tuning | eBay. It went well. I was lucky to get all the bolts off. The bolts holding the exhaust outlet (drop pipe side) were extremely rusty but I had soaked them with WD40 over night and that seemed to help. My drop pIpe has a flex segment right after the 90 where it exits the turbo which was extremely helpful as all I had to do was push the exhaust to the side to get the tubo seated in the manifold. The turbo didnt come with the threaded bolt pegs so I spent quite a bit of time pulling them off the old turbo. It did come with all new gaskets and block off plate. I thought I had everything bolted up when I first cranked it and oil began spewing up the oil drain. It went everywhere. Forgot to bolt on the oil and coolant drain. Oh well. I fixed that and and fired it up and this is how it sounds;
Dropbox - Video 2018-09-24, 11 21 33 AM.mov
The new turbo is a lot more vocal than the old one and the green turbo light comes on at 2-3 3psi vs 5 for the old.
I ordered a magnaflow 4” round muffler with a 3” intake/outlet. Im planning on reusing the existing exhaust flange at the turbo and going 3” from there, then straight along the frame rail the out just before the rear drivers side tire (right hand drive)
On a side note, i noticed a small amount of rad fluid leaking out the floor heating vent. I guess its a heater radiator leak. Its small enough that I can leave some paper towel stuffed in the vent to soak it up. At some point Ill have to pull the dash to get at the core. I believe thats a 5 bannana job
Lee
Dropbox - Video 2018-09-24, 11 21 33 AM.mov
The new turbo is a lot more vocal than the old one and the green turbo light comes on at 2-3 3psi vs 5 for the old.
I ordered a magnaflow 4” round muffler with a 3” intake/outlet. Im planning on reusing the existing exhaust flange at the turbo and going 3” from there, then straight along the frame rail the out just before the rear drivers side tire (right hand drive)
On a side note, i noticed a small amount of rad fluid leaking out the floor heating vent. I guess its a heater radiator leak. Its small enough that I can leave some paper towel stuffed in the vent to soak it up. At some point Ill have to pull the dash to get at the core. I believe thats a 5 bannana job
Lee
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- Thread starter
- #70
I just wanted to summarize this build this far:
Purchased with:
Boost, temp, and EGT gauges
Non functional hub locks
Engine with cracked head
Clogged rad
Improvements/maintenance
2.5” exhaust (2016)
Replaced with used engine from a surf (2010)
New rad, water pump, belts (2010)
Manual hub conversion using spacers (2018)
Exhaust front to back (2010, 2014)
Front axle service and brakes (2015,2018)
Rear brakes and seals (2014)
Rear diff housing removal, new gasket, and prop shaft seal (2014)
Steering flush (2016)
EGR delete (2016)
A/C delete (2016)
New air filter (2018)
New glow plugs (2016)
New turbo (2018)
Gasket on injection pump replaced in situ (2017)
Water/air intercooler (2017)
Gas turned up half a turn(2017)
Rear quater panel body work and paint + bumper delete (2018)
Remanned upper rear door hinges (2018)
3” exhaust with 3” custom downpipe, magnaflow muffler, with side pipe (2018)
Tridon high flow thermostat (2018)
Rad flush (2018)
Next up
1) 3” inch exhaust with straight pipe and magnaflow
2) rad fan upgrade to fan from 1992 pickup v6
3) rad flush
4) high flow through thermostat
5) turn up gas a quarter more (and trick to computer to allow boost >14psi by installing little bleed valve between the intake manifold and the boost sensor to bleed off some of the boost????..advice from gtssportcoupe)
I think thats it for now. Much thanks to ih8mud and all of you on the board for teaching me how to do this stuff. Its really the best hobbie/obsession I have!
Lee
Purchased with:
Boost, temp, and EGT gauges
Non functional hub locks
Engine with cracked head
Clogged rad
Improvements/maintenance
2.5” exhaust (2016)
Replaced with used engine from a surf (2010)
New rad, water pump, belts (2010)
Manual hub conversion using spacers (2018)
Exhaust front to back (2010, 2014)
Front axle service and brakes (2015,2018)
Rear brakes and seals (2014)
Rear diff housing removal, new gasket, and prop shaft seal (2014)
Steering flush (2016)
EGR delete (2016)
A/C delete (2016)
New air filter (2018)
New glow plugs (2016)
New turbo (2018)
Gasket on injection pump replaced in situ (2017)
Water/air intercooler (2017)
Gas turned up half a turn(2017)
Rear quater panel body work and paint + bumper delete (2018)
Remanned upper rear door hinges (2018)
3” exhaust with 3” custom downpipe, magnaflow muffler, with side pipe (2018)
Tridon high flow thermostat (2018)
Rad flush (2018)
Next up
1) 3” inch exhaust with straight pipe and magnaflow
2) rad fan upgrade to fan from 1992 pickup v6
3) rad flush
4) high flow through thermostat
5) turn up gas a quarter more (and trick to computer to allow boost >14psi by installing little bleed valve between the intake manifold and the boost sensor to bleed off some of the boost????..advice from gtssportcoupe)
I think thats it for now. Much thanks to ih8mud and all of you on the board for teaching me how to do this stuff. Its really the best hobbie/obsession I have!
Lee
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- Thread starter
- #71
New turbo is making a huge difference in power. Turbo kicks in earlier and boosts higher on average. Before it felt overworked at 80-90 km/hr but now cruises along easily at 90-100. Much better acceleration. I noticed water temp running a bit higher on hills but im hoping tridon high flow t-sat and improved fan will manage that.
This forum is an amazing source of information and its much appreciated! Really this is a whole new truck!
Lee
This forum is an amazing source of information and its much appreciated! Really this is a whole new truck!
Lee
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- #72
Time to build a 3” exhaust straight from the turbo. I have to give my brother much thanks for the help on this one. He fabricated the down pipe.
Here is the original pipe.
Here is the original pipe.
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That is next on my list of projects I am avoiding. Let us know how it works for you when you get it done.
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- #74
New flange;
3” down pipe
3” down pipe
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- #75
Going with the magnaflow muffler. Exhaust will run Straight back and out the front of the drivers side rear tire (right hand drive). This truck is going to breathe!
Just fits!
Just fits!
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Wow, nice work! I had a hard enough time with 2.5"; can only imagine 3"! That motor will breath. I found the exhaust work I did dropped EGT's by about 150F. Although my EGT probe at that time was post turbo.
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- #77
Hey Nick,
Ya, Im running my probe post turbo as well and current it maxes at 800 usually. It may crawl up to 900 if I push too hard but at that point I get engine light so I avoid doing that. If all goes well I will be tacking the rest of tge exhaust tonight, outside, in the dark, with a headlamp. Lol,
Ya, Im running my probe post turbo as well and current it maxes at 800 usually. It may crawl up to 900 if I push too hard but at that point I get engine light so I avoid doing that. If all goes well I will be tacking the rest of tge exhaust tonight, outside, in the dark, with a headlamp. Lol,
It’s hard for me to hit 800 po
Post turbo with all the changes. You’re getting there. Keep at it!
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- #80
I got off work and had to drive to castlegar to get the 3” straight pipe. I started a bit late but got some work done. The down pipe was rubbing a bit against the engine bay just up and right of where the steering wheel shaft comes out. I had to trim the heat sheilding a bit and there was one bolt end I had to cut off. I bolted up the down pipe fired it up. There was no vibration of the down pipe against the engine bay which was perfect.
My brother had fabbed up some flanges that could be attached to the end of the down pipe. In this way the down pipe could be removed from the rest of the exhaust. He tacked the two flange ends together to keep them in line while fitting. The nice thing about the flanges is that it gives wiggle room to work the angles.
Im trying my best to keep the above Turn as tight as possible. It gets pretty tight in the wheel well with the 3” pipe and I would like to leave room for 33” tires down the road.
I think I need to crank up tge heat on those welds. Im just so used to blowing welds through sheet, lol.
Im definitely a newb welder. Im just taking it slow and easy. Triple checking measurements and making my cuts as good as possible. That piece took me about 2 hours to do with all the setup and clean up. Like Jimmy said, just keep working at it!
This next pic shows a mock up using the straight pipe. The magnaflow will be in line half way down. I did this to get the angle of the pipe exiting the turn in the wheel well
This last picture show how well my brother nailed the bottom corner of the down pipe. Its right against tge bell housing exhaust mount!
My brother had fabbed up some flanges that could be attached to the end of the down pipe. In this way the down pipe could be removed from the rest of the exhaust. He tacked the two flange ends together to keep them in line while fitting. The nice thing about the flanges is that it gives wiggle room to work the angles.
Im trying my best to keep the above Turn as tight as possible. It gets pretty tight in the wheel well with the 3” pipe and I would like to leave room for 33” tires down the road.
I think I need to crank up tge heat on those welds. Im just so used to blowing welds through sheet, lol.
Im definitely a newb welder. Im just taking it slow and easy. Triple checking measurements and making my cuts as good as possible. That piece took me about 2 hours to do with all the setup and clean up. Like Jimmy said, just keep working at it!
This next pic shows a mock up using the straight pipe. The magnaflow will be in line half way down. I did this to get the angle of the pipe exiting the turn in the wheel well
This last picture show how well my brother nailed the bottom corner of the down pipe. Its right against tge bell housing exhaust mount!
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