LED’s with warmer glow for dash (1 Viewer)

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So very dim hard to see instrument panel on my ‘76. So I want more light but do like a warmer glow kind of like incandescent but brighter. Does anyone know of any bulbs that may fit the bill. Brighter but not the harshness of the bluish wite of most LED’s. I have also reached out to @ToyotaMatt regarding this. Thanks!
 
I ordered some LEDs from superbrightLEDs. They are too much of the bluish white that you're talking about. I'll probably order some new ones that are warmer. There are two different sizes necessary for the cluster and one of those is available in a warm white, while the other is not. Otherwise, it's a quick and easy swap and they definitely put out more light.

 
I installed some lights from superbrightleds.com and I like to look. Seems warm and not to bright . I did the turn signals and brights indicator as well.
D5C34DA7-0E94-480B-8A8E-64C645FB2B86.jpeg
 
I used these from SuperbrightLEDs, and while they aren't quite as warm as incandescents, they're closer than any other LEDs I've tried:

 
So very dim hard to see instrument panel on my ‘76. So I want more light but do like a warmer glow kind of like incandescent but brighter. Does anyone know of any bulbs that may fit the bill. Brighter but not the harshness of the bluish wite of most LED’s. I have also reached out to @ToyotaMatt regarding this. Thanks!


hello

the first real question i always ask is What actual COLOR do you wish or want to end up with ?

Yellow

Amber

Green

Blue

RED

or some various variety of WHITE or Natural ?

i Have Indeed experimented with every Major Pastel Primary color in the human spectrum above including the Newest LED color technology on the market today Actual CANARY JDM YELLOW

i always use single individual bulbs , in the OEM sockets NEVER any type of silly strip or rope lighting etc .............



here is Natural or WHITE


20200506_210158.jpg




Here is BLUE , and my favorite primary color for many valid technical reasons i will elaborate on below ......
also MY personal 1983-FJ43L-KC and gauge POD in my 2005 SUPER HILUX



37DC871D-6430-4132-B951-1921EE54EA17.jpeg


1584156658558.png
1584156658558.png


Here is GREEN and My LEAST Favorite primary color for a host of resonons as well , mainly because TOYOTAS install small Rubber green caps on ALL trucks and Land CRUISERS starting in approx 8/80-Later , not 100% on fj60, ? but all my vaious 1980';s TOYs growinmg up and there were dozens , had this after many years and before LED bulbs became DULL and BORING ? to say the least ....
 
IMG_9675.JPG



IMG_96751.jpg


MY Available OEM GREEN Fcatory correct color TONE Heater LEVER LED UPDATE UPGRADE BULBS I OFFER In our Store ...............


june20heaterlight.jpg
 
hello

the first real question i always ask is What actual COLOR do you wish or want to end up with ?

Yellow

Amber

Green

Blue

RED

or some various variety of WHITE or Natural ?

i Have Indeed experimented with every Major Pastel Primary color in the human spectrum above including the Newest LED color technology on the market today Actual CANARY JDM YELLOW

i always use single individual bulbs , in the OEM sockets NEVER any type of silly strip or rope lighting etc .............



here is Natural or WHITE


View attachment 2595816




Here is BLUE , and my favorite primary color for many valid technical reasons i will elaborate on below ......
also MY personal 1983-FJ43L-KC and gauge POD in my 2005 SUPER HILUX



View attachment 2595818

View attachment 2595819View attachment 2595819

Here is GREEN and My LEAST Favorite primary color for a host of resonons as well , mainly because TOYOTAS install small Rubber green caps on ALL trucks and Land CRUISERS starting in approx 8/80-Later , not 100% on fj60, ? but all my vaious 1980';s TOYs growinmg up and there were dozens , had this after many years and before LED bulbs became DULL and BORING ? to say the least ....
Looking for an incandescent look but from an LED bulb.
 
The easiest option is getting different Leds and experiment with them until you find one you like. I took it several steps and took the instrument cluster apart and painted the needles fluorescent orange, painted the backside white to help deflect more light. I drilled the top side "light blocker thingie", some have removed them entirely to get more light on the panel. You do get more light but l don't like that the passenger can see the actual LED so instead I drilled a tiny hole on the top side. But it's really not necessary if you find the right LED.

And for others that want to keep using incandescent lamps you can try is cleaning the ground terminal end on the frame. You may possibly have to reseat or clean other terminal lugs in the circuit. It will get a tad brighter than it is already is. I went this route before LEDs were available. Hope this helps
 
The easiest option is getting different Leds and experiment with them until you find one you like. I took it several steps and took the instrument cluster apart and painted the needles fluorescent orange, painted the backside white to help deflect more light. I drilled the top side "light blocker thingie", some have removed them entirely to get more light on the panel. You do get more light but l don't like that the passenger can see the actual LED so instead I drilled a tiny hole on the top side. But it's really not necessary if you find the right LED.

And for others that want to keep using incandescent lamps you can try is cleaning the ground terminal end on the frame. You may possibly have to reseat or clean other terminal lugs in the circuit. It will get a tad brighter than it is already is. I went this route before LEDs were available. Hope this helps
Thanks for this, excellent info. Frame ground, I never even thought of that one👍👍👍
 
I too wanted brighter dash lights while maintaining the period correct incandescent 'warm white' candle light glow. For this, LEDs with a color temperature in the 2000 - 3000K range work well. I just installed these on my '66 (without modifying anything in the cluster) and the gauges are now readably bright, but with the same look as the dim incandescents:

3000K BA9 Base LED Bulbs

Now if only the gauges actually worked.
 
Last edited:
I too wanted brighter dash lights while maintaining the period correct incandescent 'warm white' candle light glow. For this, LEDs with a color temperature in the 2000 - 3000K range work well. I just installed these on my '66 (without modifying anything in the cluster) and the gauges are now readably bright, but with the same look as the dim incandescents:

3000K BA9 Base LED Bulbs

Now if only the gauges actually worked.
Have any pics of these bulbs and what they look like?
 
Unfortunately not, but the quality of the light is very close to that from the incandescent bulbs they replaced, only brighter. Nothing like the colored LEDs shown above. Again the key thing is the colour temperature - most LEDs are in the 4000 - 6000K range which is the slightly hollow almost blue color that works in a modern car, but not in a classic car. The LEDs you want in the 2000 - 3000K range are often described as 'warm white'.
 
hello

the first real question i always ask is What actual COLOR do you wish or want to end up with ?

Yellow

Amber

Green

Blue

RED

or some various variety of WHITE or Natural ?

i Have Indeed experimented with every Major Pastel Primary color in the human spectrum above including the Newest LED color technology on the market today Actual CANARY JDM YELLOW

i always use single individual bulbs , in the OEM sockets NEVER any type of silly strip or rope lighting etc .............



here is Natural or WHITE


View attachment 2595816



Here is BLUE , and my favorite primary color for many valid technical reasons i will elaborate on below ......
also MY personal 1983-FJ43L-KC and gauge POD in my 2005 SUPER HILUX



View attachment 2595818

View attachment 2595819View attachment 2595819

Here is GREEN and My LEAST Favorite primary color for a host of resonons as well , mainly because TOYOTAS install small Rubber green caps on ALL trucks and Land CRUISERS starting in approx 8/80-Later , not 100% on fj60, ? but all my vaious 1980';s TOYs growinmg up and there were dozens , had this after many years and before LED bulbs became DULL and BORING ? to say the least ....

View attachment 2595820


View attachment 2595822

MY Available OEM GREEN Fcatory correct color TONE Heater LEVER LED UPDATE UPGRADE BULBS I OFFER In our Store ...............


View attachment 2595823

Question I have do the LEDs work with the dimmer on the 78+ light switch in the US market. For a while I ran a 78 light switch in my 68 and dimmer worked on that but that was with stock lamps. My plan is to keep my 76 as stock as when it left Japan would think Tom the OP might benefit from a dimmer. I know on my ceiling fans unless you have a dimmer designed for LEDs and LEDs designed for a dimmer they either don't work all or just basically either on or off. Ideally a LED that would work with the 78+ US market light switch could solve the brightness issue to some degree.
 
Question I have do the LEDs work with the dimmer on the 78+ light switch in the US market. For a while I ran a 78 light switch in my 68 and dimmer worked on that but that was with stock lamps. My plan is to keep my 76 as stock as when it left Japan would think Tom the OP might benefit from a dimmer. I know on my ceiling fans unless you have a dimmer designed for LEDs and LEDs designed for a dimmer they either don't work all or just basically either on or off. Ideally a LED that would work with the 78+ US market light switch could solve the brightness issue to some degree.


The Unique USA-SPEC. 10/73 - 10/83 " VARIABLE🦨 RHEOSTAT " Equipped Head Lamp Switch exclusive to the North American

Destination Market and Later Also In the JDM Japanese Domestic Markets for example the BJ46 LX Model

came equipped with a Illuminated Poly Carbonate Knob lit with a crappy Single BA7 bulb

Other USA spec' TOYOTA Verticals came equipped with a NON-Illuminated " VARIABLE RHEOSTAT " Equipped Head Lamp

Switch exclusive to the North American Destination Market as well , that is Indeed PLUG and Play with a FJ40 , however

further details and exact TOYOTA Models and productions years on this topic remain strictly Classified SKUNK -WORKS ........🦨




Below are Diagrams of the JIS Logos in the EWD and FSM to stay alert for ...........


and to simply answer Uncle John's inquire , The Ability to Vary In LUMENS of a Cluster Meter T-10 Wedge Lock Bulb LED

depends MUCH on the quality level and price point ....


i pay well over $25+ for a 2 pack if ones capable of LUMEN Vary

sorry nothing at superbright can claim this fact 🤔


only SOUTH KOREA Domestic market produced bulbs LED can claim to VARY in Teq FLAME ...........





84112-60011 OEM FJ40 light switch (2).JPG


3.jpg




74FC93DD-4009-4CDD-83B4-B00F49F4A767.jpeg






1614282179232.png


 
The Unique USA-SPEC. 10/73 - 10/83 " VARIABLE🦨 RHEOSTAT " Equipped Head Lamp Switch exclusive to the North American


Interesting didn't realize the rheostat started 10/73. Thought it was the 78 model. Have a 10/75 but not here to check. Remember stripping switches and knobs from a 78 for my 68 many years ago. I was able to get most of a couple 78 wiring harnesses and one from a 80. Not sure how many switches Ingot with them but think my 10/76 is the only switch between 73 and 78 I have. Doesn't that create a problem for switching to LEDs with a rheostat? Huge number of 40 are post 73.
 
the 60011 and 60010 and 60012 and 60030 are NOT interchangeable or compatible ion any way

NO WAY JOSE

i will dive deep into the whys and tech later when i free up
 
the 60011 and 60010 and 60012 and 60030 are NOT interchangeable or compatible ion any way

NO WAY JOSE

i will dive deep into the whys and tech later when i free up

I agree that none of these part numbers show interchangeable. I also see you are correct theHaynes manual shows a rheostat from 74-77. Just curious what changed 9/77 that the later one isn't a sub. While these may not be interchangeable doesn't mean it can't be done. Wasn't that hard using the 78 switch in my 68. The rheostat working on the dash I personally pay for the LEDs that would work.
 
You’re looking for LEDs that are +/- 3000K

2500K are more amber
4000K Bright white
5000-6000K are harsher
 

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