LC randomly goes dead (no power to car) even with full main battery, also power window issue (1 Viewer)

[brasskey]

There seems to have been enough cases of these issues related to the Slee battery terminal extension that I would ditch them. There's a fundamental compatibility issues between the metal that it's composed of.

I'd switch them out and move on as this will continue to rear its head.

Not the prettiest as I used some old ring terminals floating around the garage, but here's an idea for simple extensions for the military type terminals.
View attachment 2394634

I agree. I need to come up with a better solution. If those extensions were made from brass or copper, I don't think there'd be the same problems. I think it's the aluminum and lead that don't like each other. These copper terminals seem perfect, but that site doesn't look legit and I haven't been able to find them elsewhere.

 

[sleeoffroad]

You need to visually inspect the lead terminals closely where they touch the aluminum extensions. The lead seems to be eaten up more than the aluminum on the Slee extensions. Make sure there’s no pitting like on the picture in my previous post because that still might be the issue.

We have looked at a number of these and we also run them on our vehicles. We have not had these issues in house, or trucks we have done. However when we talk to customers about this, 99% of the time it has been traced to the bolt holding the terminal to the terminal extension being loose and this causes arcing that causes the pitting. For some reason (maybe different expansion rates) the bolts loosen up and causes the issue. We are not sure that it is the dissimilar metals causing the issue.

At the shop we do apply dielectric grease to the interface and ensure that the bolt is tight.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Followup: Picked up 200 this am from Dealer after a week in shop of trying to find the Ghost in the Machine. No error codes, computer checked out ok, no chewed up wires, no electrical component recalls, multi-meter hunt negative, grounding wires all checked and were intact and tight, battery/alternator good, battery terminals with Slee Extensions taken apart and were fine. They started it and turned it off multiple times with no issue.... So sort of good news but still don't have a diagnosis.

If anyone suspects the terminals are causing issues, it is a very simple test to connect a jumper cable (or short jumper wire) from the cinch bolt on the terminal to the vehicle wiring where it attaches to the terminal extension. That will bypass the terminal to extension interface temporarily or you could attach a jump wire permanently.

 

[RET2]

I agree. I need to come up with a better solution. If those extensions were made from brass or copper, I don't think there'd be the same problems. I think it's the aluminum and lead that don't like each other. These copper terminals seem perfect, but that site doesn't look legit and I haven't been able to find them elsewhere.

Are these brass? Odd color for copper.

 

[brasskey]

Are these brass? Odd color for copper.

I agree, but the website says, "THE BOLT AND LOCKNUT ARE NOT COPPER, BUT THE TERMINAL BODY AND LOCKING LEVER ARE".

But, again, website does not look trustworthy.

 

[RET2]

I agree, but they website says, "THE BOLT AND LOCKNUT ARE NOT COPPER, BUT THE TERMINAL BODY AND LOCKING LEVER ARE".

But, again, website does not look trustworthy.

Hencho en Chineee?

 

[bemerritt]

Chiming in to say this was a problem with mine as well. I took off the parts in question and sanded them and put them back on to deal with more permanently at a later date.

 

[Mogwai]

Chiming in to say this was a problem with mine as well. I took off the parts in question and sanded them and put them back on to deal with more permanently at a later date.

Ditto. And my bolt was not loose. Anecdotal feedback, I went to a marine supplier who sells marine grade electrical and solar components when I was installing my dual battery setup (they sell cable by the foot, individual connectors, and had a large bench crimper for me to use). Anyway the guy took one look at the extensions and asked me why they were made out of aluminum. Said it was a bad recipe. I , finished the install, paid the man and left. I now think about him every time I'm cleaning off the extensions, or my truck won't start

 

[bemerritt]

Obviously, in cases like this you only hear from the people who experienced the failure and not all of the ones that don't. But sure seems like a frequently occurring problem. One would hope for a material/design change.

 

[RET2]

Obviously, in cases like this you only hear from the people who experienced the failure and not all of the ones that don't. But sure seems like a frequently occurring problem. One would hope for a material/design change.

Or one could just replace cables with the correct length. LOL

 

[Mogwai]

Or one could just replace cables with the correct length. LOL

Its not just cable length, having a couple extra places to connect other components keeps things clean and allows for disconnect of a single item as needed.

 

[RET2]

Its not just cable length, having a couple extra places to connect other components keeps things clean and allows for disconnect of a single item as needed.

You mean you don't like my extendo-matic concept? I wasn't advocating not using Military style but rather this would allow for their use.

 

[Mogwai]

You mean you don't like my extendo-matic concept? I wasn't advocating not using Military style but rather this would allow for their use.

I'm already in line for them!

 

[hedd]

I have a similar issue with the military style Slee connectors. Randomly after several months I will go attempt to start the LC and nothing will happen. The dash lights briefly come on then off and then nothing at all.

Each time this happens, I twist the battery terminal just slightly and it comes back. This week it happened, I cleaned and tightened everything, working now but looks like I really need to replace those connections.

 

[bemerritt]

I have a similar issue with the military style Slee connectors. Randomly after several months I will go attempt to start the LC and nothing will happen. The dash lights briefly come on then off and then nothing at all.

Each time this happens, I twist the battery terminal just slightly and it comes back. This week it happened, I cleaned and tightened everything, working now but looks like I really need to replace those connections.

I need to do the same. Usually I take off the terminals, sand them down and put them back. Would love to hear if @sleeoffroad has a good solution for us.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I have a similar issue with the military style Slee connectors. Randomly after several months I will go attempt to start the LC and nothing will happen. The dash lights briefly come on then off and then nothing at all.

Each time this happens, I twist the battery terminal just slightly and it comes back. This week it happened, I cleaned and tightened everything, working now but looks like I really need to replace those connections.

If you are able to twist the connector on the post, then it is not tight. I would start by removing them from the post, clean everything really good and tighten it again. The post are tapered, so you need to make sure you "spread" the terminals a little and make sure they seat all the way down and then tighten down.

 

[bemerritt]

If you are able to twist the connector on the post, then it is not tight. I would start by removing them from the post, clean everything really good and tighten it again. The post are tapered, so you need to make sure you "spread" the terminals a little and make sure they seat all the way down and then tighten down.

What about for those of us that remove and have visible corrosion. No twisting or retightening will work. Have to remove the whole assembly and sand them down.

 

[hedd]

If you are able to twist the connector on the post, then it is not tight. I would start by removing them from the post, clean everything really good and tighten it again. The post are tapered, so you need to make sure you "spread" the terminals a little and make sure they seat all the way down and then tighten down.

I agree with this, I am not sure how the problem continues to happen. When I installed them I tightened them as much as possible. I have had those connectors and the Odyssey battery for 3 years and this has happened about six times. The terminals are not loose at all I have to put a ton of pressure to move the connector which seems to fix the connection and the truck will start. For instance, last week, I stopped to drop off my kids, turned off the truck came back to a dead car. Popped the hood cranked on the terminal (you can often hear it arc) and then it started right up. I made a few stops on the way home - no issues restarting. When I got home I took everything apart, cleaned it and then cranked it back down. No issues since.

I assume it will be back but I know what to look for.

 

[bemerritt]

I agree with this, I am not sure how the problem continues to happen. When I installed them I tightened them as much as possible. I have had those connectors and the Odyssey battery for 3 years and this has happened about six times. The terminals are not loose at all I have to put a ton of pressure to move the connector which seems to fix the connection and the truck will start. For instance, last week, I stopped to drop off my kids, turned off the truck came back to a dead car. Popped the hood cranked on the terminal (you can often hear it arc) and then it started right up. I made a few stops on the way home - no issues restarting. When I got home I took everything apart, cleaned it and then cranked it back down. No issues since.

I assume it will be back but I know what to look for.

In my experience it is probably from not the post connection but the extension. You are tweaking that, that is where the corrosion is happening.

 

[TeCKis300]

It's too bad this part is still causing grief this many years later for so many owners. Probably have left people in situations we've not heard the stories of as not all owners are on these forums.

Aluminum, while not a preferred conductor, can be used in various electrical paths and is generally used for cost savings. In the situation where it is near the battery, there's likely contributing reasons it is particularly bad in this application.

It is well known that aluminum will oxidize in air (oxygen), forming a non-conductive insulating oxide. That's an issue but shouldn't be as impactful for the clamped surfaces.

Galvanic corrosion is likely the biggest issue here. Dissimilar metals near the battery which provides a catalyst of electrolytes, is probably exacerbating this. Causing the aluminum to be a sacrificial anode, creating non-conductive galvanic corrosion on the mating surfaces of the dissimilar metals. Right where it's needed to pass power.

I know some suggestions have been to create a jumper wire over the extension.

Might just soon as get ride of the extension and crease a jumper/bridge in this fashion. Using 2 or 4-gauge terminals. Butted back to back turned 90-degrees. Crimp or solder (can be done with a propane torch), or both.