LC PZJ75 alternator

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johan peeters

johan peeters

10 Year
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May 1, 2012
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belgium
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www.nooitnooit.com
Hi guys, i have a quick question about my 24V alternator. The original alternator puts out 30amps at 24V, i am installing a dual battery system in the back also 24V that will be converted to 12V and 22OV.My question is, is it better to instal a more powerful alternator that gives more amps or does it make no difference,thanks:confused:
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The amount of output that you need really depends on the kinds of loads you're going to be placing on your charging system.

30A @ 24V roughly translates to 60A @ 12V (there is a slight performance advantage with 24V).

What you need to do is calculate your loads and then see how much current you're going to need. A larger output always comes at some cost, but can be really useful if you're planning on using a lot of accessories.

One way to be efficient with your electrical loads is to go with things that run natively on 24V, since converting to 12V or 220V will come at an efficiency cost that will effectively make your alternator's output seem lower.

I'd suggest that you take a serious look at what you want to run and try to do as much as possible with 24v accessories. Winches, lights, compressors, refrigerators etc. are all available in 24V and run more efficiently on 24V than 12V.

~John
 
thanks,that makes things more clear, winch,fridge and interieur lighting is al 24V ,i am using a victron multiplus system(charger & 24V/800W/16Aconverter)(charges the batteries in the back when plugged in) and led lighting,so the alternator will charge the two batteries in the back with no problems is that correct?
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there was a 60A version of your alt on the toyota coaster bus, the versions with the 1hz and 1hdt fitted. both engines have the same block as the 1pz, the 1pz having 1 less cylinder.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-CO...CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item2c6906f5d2

i think that one is overpriced, but, they are hard to find, i looked for a while. thats been on there for two years, id nearly send him an email and make him an offer. hard to find and hard to sell.

i seem to recall there was an 80A version too, a bit of digging around the coaster pages on the epc would bring it up.
if it fits the 1hz/1hd-t it will fit the 1pz.
 
Thanks, so if i take out my 30 amp alt and replace it with this 60 amp alt, what exactly are the benefits, and do i have to replace anything else if you upgrade your alternator to more amps?
 
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johan peeters said:
Thanks, so if i take out my 30 amp alt and replace it with this 60 amp alt, what exactly are the benefits, and do i have to replace anything else if you upgrade your alternator to more amps?
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No ,it should be plug and play. Try some of the aussies sellers.They tell me they can source the 24volt alternator from the same suppliers as the 12v. They may even go bigger thn 60amp.

Is yours a single belt ? The Coasters are single belt from memory but its may be just a matter of swapping pulleys if yours is dual belt.

Im in agreement with Radd,its much simpler to keep everything 24v. Those convertors over complicate things and the last thing you want is to be fault finding one.
 
i have a double belt (the one that REDD suggests has a double pulley,no?) ,and yes it's better with all 24V but some things need 12V or 220V,like charging cameras,laptops,phones but these things don't take a lot of power,it's not that i will run microwaves and power tools, but i converted a 12V winch to 24V winch with a 24V BOW motor and i think it would be a good thing to have a bigger alternator, does a 60AMP alt charge your batteries quicker?
 
phones are voltage independent 6-36V
GPS as well
a small convertor for the laptop would probably be all you need.
i run a 3 gang plug adapter off a simple 24V/12V invertor for all my small electrical needs.
looks to me like you are going overkill for no real reason.
 
Johan,

You can try Neil at RooDogs in Australia. He is very helpful and may be able to source you a 60A alternator in 24V. There is a limit to the output of these alternators given the small size, but the two belt pulley is a good idea as the output goes up. These smaller case alternators will max out about 80 - 100A (@12V) due to diode sizing and cooling limitations.

Running things like LED driving/off-road lights instead of halogen (1/3 the current load for the same raw lumens), all other lighting for camp use or interior can be switched to LED as well.

As others have stated, try to keep your weight down (there's no real need for more than one extra battery - and it doesn't need to be that big), and try to run as much native 24V stuff and you should be good. 60A @ 24V is a good lot of current, considering that these diesels don't have any real draw when running (except for a few mA for the fuel shut off solenoid). Lots of people make the mistake of thinking in terms of what a petrol powered vehicle needs - computers, ignition systems, sensors etc. that all use a fair bit of current. The PZJ has virtually none of that stuff, so what the alternator puts out is not going to need to be high as what one would need when you run that thin, stinky, highly flammable fuel alternative.


~John
 
<i never realized that John was a straight to the heart diesel bigot>
Radd Cruisers said:
The PZJ has virtually none of that stuff, so what the alternator puts out is not going to need to be high as what one would need when you run that thin, stinky, highly flammable fuel alternative.


~John
Click to expand...
 
crushers said:
<i never realized that John was a straight to the heart diesel bigot>
Click to expand...

Jeezuz Wayne, I thought you would have realized that by now.

~John

(price of petrol here: $1.099 / Litre, Diesel: $1.209 / L)
 
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