LC Pulling to Right

[TexAZ]

I visited the dealership JBs truck is at to get tpms programmed. the service advisor took me on a test drive to show what the truck is doing. There is definate torque steer pushing the truck to the right. After they finished with my truck, I took the same loop around the block and hammered the throttle a couple times to try to replicate the conditions. If I let go of the wheel, upon acceleration the wheel would turn right a little and then snap back to the center. Did this 3 or four times in a row within the couple mile loop. Visually comparing my truck to JBs, I have the longer tundra arms, so the angle isn't as steep and the CV shafts aren't as angled. Mostly I suspect it is an alignment issue. Having a Tundra before, and there are exponentially more lifted tundras out there, I used the generally accepted Tundra alignment specs.

quoted from TundraTalk.net

STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)

LIFTED TRUCKS:
Same As Above ... BUT if you have wheels that have more negative offset than factory wheels, increase the camber to +.2 degrees. (or even +.3 degrees if they just can't get there with the amount of adjustment allowed by the eccentrics)

Check your alignment numbers and see if they match up. Hopefully it is a simple fix.

 

[JBHorne]

What I find interesting here is that NO ONE else on these forums are running adjustable pan hard rods -- and there are plenty of lifted 200's. I will look into that bar from AU. I'd do the TC kit, but not for $1700 -- especially when I already have the ICON lower control arms.

 

[JBHorne]

I visited the dealership JBs truck is at to get tpms programmed. the service advisor took me on a test drive to show what the truck is doing. There is definate torque steer pushing the truck to the right. After they finished with my truck, I took the same loop around the block and hammered the throttle a couple times to try to replicate the conditions. If I let go of the wheel, upon acceleration the wheel would turn right a little and then snap back to the center. Did this 3 or four times in a row within the couple mile loop. Visually comparing my truck to JBs, I have the longer tundra arms, so the angle isn't as steep and the CV shafts aren't as angled. Mostly I suspect it is an alignment issue. Having a Tundra before, and there are exponentially more lifted tundras out there, I used the generally accepted Tundra alignment specs.

quoted from TundraTalk.net

STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)

LIFTED TRUCKS:
Same As Above ... BUT if you have wheels that have more negative offset than factory wheels, increase the camber to +.2 degrees. (or even +.3 degrees if they just can't get there with the amount of adjustment allowed by the eccentrics)

Check your alignment numbers and see if they match up. Hopefully it is a simple fix.

Quite frankly, it's MUCH worse now after they "fixed" it. In fact, when making left turns the rear notably kicks outward. It's going back sometime this week. Thanks for posting the specs!

 

[9780LC]

What I find interesting here is that NO ONE else on these forums are running adjustable pan hard rods -- and there are plenty of lifted 200's. I will look into that bar from AU. I'd do the TC kit, but not for $1700 -- especially when I already have the ICON lower control arms.

I just bought one from Marks4wd. My alignment guy said not having this adjustable pan hard rod is my problem. I'll be getting it installed the week of FEB 22. I am in the same situation as you. I too have the icon lower links. I also have some pulling to the right from time to time.

 

[9780LC]

What I find interesting here is that NO ONE else on these forums are running adjustable pan hard rods -- and there are plenty of lifted 200's. I will look into that bar from AU. I'd do the TC kit, but not for $1700 -- especially when I already have the ICON lower control arms.

I think a lot of people are probably living with the pulling to the right under acceleration issue. I definitely know some people with 100's that are living with the same thing.

 

[TLD]

Hello Guys, i am running pan hard rod from Jaos. check out your rear end after lift, if it stick out to the left then you need to install pan hard rod. if the rear end stick out to the left it will change your thrust line and push your front end to the right. well its my personal opinion, experts please correct me! sorry for my poor english!

 

[nuclearn8]

If anyone is near PHX area you can go to Sonoran Steel and talk to Steve.
He may be able to help you. They sell some awesome products for the 4Runner/ FJ/ Tacoma crowd...

typically for those applications a lift, the amount of adjustabaility isn't more than 3/16" for a 3" lift to get the rear axle back centered...

 

[JBHorne]

So we found the culprit -- a damaged steering rack. Also may explain why I'm on my 3rd power steering pump. Back in the shop today and they are replacing the rack and installing a new power steering pump. Wish me luck!

 

[arich]

how did they isolate it to the steering rack?