Do all your undercarriage work before undercoating absolutely
LC/LX Undercoating Rust Proof (4 Viewers)
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I have a new to me 2021 200.
I just had it dry ice cleaned and it looks amazing.
Now, living in MN, it’s time for undercoating.
I want great protection. And don’t mind reapplying.
I won’t do it myself as I don’t want the mess.
So the place I’m going to offers Waxoyl for a more permanent option.
Fluid film and Woolwax are offered as well.
I was leaning towards Waxoyl but it seems like the other options are less intrusive and won’t age as they eventually come off and need reapplication.
I’m worried about Waxoyl and working on the vehicle and that being a mess long term with it attracting debris and dirt.
Advice is much appreciated.
I just had it dry ice cleaned and it looks amazing.
Now, living in MN, it’s time for undercoating.
I want great protection. And don’t mind reapplying.
I won’t do it myself as I don’t want the mess.
So the place I’m going to offers Waxoyl for a more permanent option.
Fluid film and Woolwax are offered as well.
I was leaning towards Waxoyl but it seems like the other options are less intrusive and won’t age as they eventually come off and need reapplication.
I’m worried about Waxoyl and working on the vehicle and that being a mess long term with it attracting debris and dirt.
Advice is much appreciated.
If you're worried about attracting debris and dirt then you will not be happy with Waxoyl, FluidFilm or Woolwax. Look for a place that does cosmoline products such as RP-342 or Amsoil HD Metal Protectant. Those products will cure to a dry wax and will attract minimal dust compared to the other products you've mentioned. There is a place in North Branch called Carson Undercoating that uses RP-342, give them a shot. Specify is you want the clear amber colored RP-342 or the one with the black dye in it.
Damn dry ice blasting is legit. That thing must be pristine.
Could also see if someone would apply LPS3 for you which is a corrosion preventative frequently used for aviation applications. Cures into a waxy film that is much less messy than lanolin.
Will be expensive as s*** though.
For what it’s worth, I like that Fluid Film attracts dirt and dust because that just adds another protective layer to the undercarriage. Build that stuff up baby.
Then again I’m in Florida so I’m not dealing with the salt monster and the snow.
Could also see if someone would apply LPS3 for you which is a corrosion preventative frequently used for aviation applications. Cures into a waxy film that is much less messy than lanolin.
Will be expensive as s*** though.
For what it’s worth, I like that Fluid Film attracts dirt and dust because that just adds another protective layer to the undercarriage. Build that stuff up baby.
Then again I’m in Florida so I’m not dealing with the salt monster and the snow.
I guess Dinitrol is another one. I’m in analysis paralysis mode. It looks decent now but in MN, they dump a ton of salt every 100 yards. So I need to do something.
Few pics of it after dry ice. Not too bad.
Few pics of it after dry ice. Not too bad.
Looks awesome. My exhaust has some crust that I can’t really have scraped and painted and it bugs the s*** out of me. I should have done the dry ice as well but I didn’t really know it was an option at the time and now the undercarriage is dripping in fluid film lol.
I am pretty obsessive about rust on cars but it’s gonna happen man. It’s a losing war but we still fight it.
Anything you do is going to be miles ahead of the 90% of the drivers that do exactly nothing. Pick something and rest easy.
I am pretty obsessive about rust on cars but it’s gonna happen man. It’s a losing war but we still fight it.
Anything you do is going to be miles ahead of the 90% of the drivers that do exactly nothing. Pick something and rest easy.
Woolwax/Fluid Film is IMO not that messy. Once it gets some dirt on it, it forms a nice semi-solid crust. If you use Woolwax Black, hitting it up with the pressure washer will remove the outermost dirt layer and leave you with a nice black dirt/Woolwax coating that looks like undercoating. Yes, you will get some of it on you if you wrench on the rig, but it also wipes right off your skin and feels/acts just like a lotion anyway.
I spent several days under my rig last month - swapping the front and rear diffs - and the Woolwax coating caused me exactly zero issues when wrenching on it. Sure, it got on my clothes, but they are wrenching clothes anyway, and also got covered in plenty of gear oil and CV grease.
I spent several days under my rig last month - swapping the front and rear diffs - and the Woolwax coating caused me exactly zero issues when wrenching on it. Sure, it got on my clothes, but they are wrenching clothes anyway, and also got covered in plenty of gear oil and CV grease.
I use Fluid Film or WoolWax, which ever i can find a better deal on. I use it on all my vehicles. Everything underneath, inside the frame, inside every fender, door, rocker panel, tailgate, under the hood, everywhere. I apply it every summer so it has a chance to spread everywhere and get a nice coating of dust and road debris to lock it in. Never any rust, including on my 2004 K2500 Suburban I leave at my family’s cabin on Leech Lake / Longville, MN where I grew up. That Suburban pulls a snow machine all over the upper midwest in the winter as well as snow plowing duty. It only gets washed when it rains and is pretty much salt covered 6 months of the year. Absolutely zero rust. Find a Minnesota truck like that and I’ll show you some who uses a lanolin product to protect it.
One of my buddies has a 1992 Ford Explorer that has been his daily driver from rural Rogers, MN to downtown since new in 1992. He always uses fluid film as well and it still looks like new at almost 500k miles of winter salt. On a Ford. I swear he was lucky enough to get the only good one.
One of my buddies has a 1992 Ford Explorer that has been his daily driver from rural Rogers, MN to downtown since new in 1992. He always uses fluid film as well and it still looks like new at almost 500k miles of winter salt. On a Ford. I swear he was lucky enough to get the only good one.
Dinitrol is an excellent product also, we spray that too on certain vehicles and upon request
If you're planning on doing the suspension lift soon, then lift first, then undercoat. The coatings will make the job messier.
