LC 200 Gear oil

[gasman4u]

Just an anecdotal observation and I'm curious what others see. When I change fluids, the transfer case seems to be easiest on oils looking fresher than what comes out of the front and rear diff. Rear diff seems to work the hardest.

This mirrors my experience too. The "old" tcase fluid looks almost the same as the new. Rear looks like it's time. Front doesn't look bad - just a PIA to get to.

TBF, I haven't sent any of this off for analysis. I don't know what value that it'd provide. But I'm sInpUL.

 

[2021 LC200]

A couple months ago I changed the oils at 32k miles for the first time with a couple of observations:

- The front and rear differential oils had magnetic drain plugs with ferrous looking "paste". When touched and rubbed between your fingers no substance or roughness to it. When I looked on the internet there are many examples out there of same behavour. Looks like the ring gears etc with metal to metal contact do create very fine run in and or continuous wear material, however normal per my search. I am interested to see at 60 to 70k miles how this evolves. I also noted slightly discolored oil, probably temperature effect, or perhaps the very very fine ferrous material distributed as I drove the vehicle to warm up the oil, probably a combination of temp & this very fine wear material.

Rear diff debris on fill plug

Finally got around to change the rear axle fluid on my '17 3500 cab and chassis. I fully expect to see some fine deposits when dealing with new gears, but while the amount of fine particles didn't seem out of the ordinary to me, the 1/4-inch wide pieces didn't make me feel happy. On the...

www.cumminsforum.com

Front Diff fluid, strange color - https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/front-diff-fluid-strange-color.543961/

front differential, drain and fill plugs

Rear differential drain plug, already part at the top removed and rubbed between my fingers

- I recall the transfer case with no magnet on the drain plug and the oil looking better. Same as observed by TeCKis300. Looks like chain to gear interface or the forces involved and distributed are in a different place or the way the lubrication works between the faces. I am still happy I changed the oil as a) anything with a chain on your vehicle is worth taking care of in my opinion (like timing chains) and b) Toyota actually specifies a change interval at 30k miles under more heavy duty use conditions, whereas it does not for things like ATF. Now I am not saying the "lifetime" ATF fluid should not be changed and maybe Toyota marketing played a role saying we do not care anything beyond say 200k miles, yet it is interesting they actually specify Diffs and TC's at 30k miles. I do not know of course whether that recommendation is more focussed on the Diffs than the TC.

All in all my plan is to change at 60 to 70k miles and see the evolution of the ferrous wear material. I may thereafter go to 50k miles intervals as my wife and I used the vehicle mostly for regular paved road driving and do not have a hard handed right foot. We maybe tow 600 to a 1000 miles out of the 10000 each year. Also then I still control my right foot and am often happy going at 65 to 70 mph in 6th gear (8 speed) at 2200 to 2300 rpm.

I also realize there needs to be some balance between maintenance and planned use life and the vehicle otherwise starting to fall apart. Realistically at our 8 to 10k miles per year I would like to get to 250 to 300k miles over the next 30 years. It would be cool though having a perfect running 200 in 2054 which will likely have collector value at that point like the 80's do now. I also park it always inside at home in the garage like I do my 535d, so UV damage should not be taking over.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

Went with 75w90, with a roughly 20% mix of 75w140

 

[renyon99]

got a question just to confirm my assumption. I am about to do a F/R Diff and TC fluid service. Toyota is apparently on national backorder with the "unicorn" fluid 75W for the TC (and its creeping on $100 / qt). Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the following.....do the great minds here agree this is acceptable and will work without issue? Appreciate the teams feedback as always.

75W for the TC and 75W/85 for the diffs

 

[manofthewoods]

got a question just to confirm my assumption. I am about to do a F/R Diff and TC fluid service. Toyota is apparently on national backorder with the "unicorn" fluid 75W for the TC (and its creeping on $100 / qt). Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the following.....do the great minds here agree this is acceptable and will work without issue? Appreciate the teams feedback as always.

75W for the TC and 75W/85 for the diffs


View attachment 3859084

for front and rear diff's you can use any over the counter lube (in 75w-90). I'd use a synthetic, but get some on sale if you can. The job to change those fluids is easyalbeit a bit messy sometimes. Regarding the TORSEN center differential, you are correct, the Ravenol is the way to go. When I did mine the fluid that came out looked really good. Actually, so did the fluid from the F/R diffs. I know some of my fellow Mudders get persnickety about stuff like these fluids, but, practically speaking if they are changed with a conservative frequency there is nothing to worry about. Good to go!

Note: you may know this, but it doesn't hurt to remind/mention: Alway loosen the fill plug before draining

Happy trails

 

[renyon99]

for front and rear diff's you can use any over the counter lube (in 75w-90). I'd use a synthetic, but get some on sale if you can. The job to change those fluids is easyalbeit a bit messy sometimes. Regarding the TORSEN center differential, you are correct, the Ravenol is the way to go. When I did mine the fluid that came out looked really good. Actually, so did the fluid from the F/R diffs. I know some of my fellow Mudders get persnickety about stuff like these fluids, but, practically speaking if they are changed with a conservative frequency there is nothing to worry about. Good to go!

Note: you may know this, but it doesn't hurt to remind/mention: Alway loosen the fill plug before draining

Happy trails

Thank you for the quick reply. One followup; my user manual says 75W-85 for the diffs, so I should be good on the Ravenol 75W-85 I ordered, correct? asking only cause you mentioned 75W-90. Thank you again!

 

[manofthewoods]

Thank you for the quick reply. One followup; my user manual says 75W-85 for the diffs, so I should be good on the Ravenol 75W-85 I ordered, correct? asking only cause you mentioned 75W-90. Thank you again!

View attachment 3859100

Well, if you already ordered the Ravenol, then, you'll be fine. But, your local autoparts store will stock 75w-90 which will work fine and dandy (and may be cheaper). Either way your diffs will be happy splish splashing in their new lubricant.

 

[bloc]

What he said. Those will work great.

 

[2021 LC200]

I used that Ravenol combination for Diffs and TC. Only the future will tell but Made in Germany and claiming to be compatible with Toyota works for me. Germans are no clowns. Be worried about a Made in China in this case.

They also come in convenient bottles with a little hose out of the cap making filling easy, even squeezing “uphill” for the front diff was easy. No pump needed and additional handling of the oil with potential for debris. Way to go IMO.

 

[skrypj]

Thank you for the quick reply. One followup; my user manual says 75W-85 for the diffs, so I should be good on the Ravenol 75W-85 I ordered, correct? asking only cause you mentioned 75W-90. Thank you again!

View attachment 3859100

He only mentioned 75W-90 because thats what every normal oil brand makes. Toyota are savages and specify a weight that isn't commonly available off the shelf.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

got a question just to confirm my assumption. I am about to do a F/R Diff and TC fluid service. Toyota is apparently on national backorder with the "unicorn" fluid 75W for the TC (and its creeping on $100 / qt). Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the following.....do the great minds here agree this is acceptable and will work without issue? Appreciate the teams feedback as always.

75W for the TC and 75W/85 for the diffs


View attachment 3859084

Hows the price as compared to Amsoil? 75w85?

 

[Blackford Oakes]

got a question just to confirm my assumption. I am about to do a F/R Diff and TC fluid service. Toyota is apparently on national backorder with the "unicorn" fluid 75W for the TC (and its creeping on $100 / qt). Therefore, I went ahead and ordered the following.....do the great minds here agree this is acceptable and will work without issue? Appreciate the teams feedback as always.

75W for the TC and 75W/85 for the diffs


View attachment 3859084

After a ton of research and getting opinions from a few Mudders that I highly respect, I went with Ravenol. TC on my 2013 uses a different weight oil (straight 75W, I believe) than my 2016. If anything, the bottles with the spout are worth going with Ravenol. Front diff work space is tight and near impossible to get above the fill hole without rigging up a funnel/tube.

 

[hoot504]

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-85-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svl/

I'm surprised this hasn't been brought up. Anyone running it?

 

[bloc]

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-85-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svl/

I'm surprised this hasn't been brought up. Anyone running it?

GL-5, which suggests it probably shouldn’t be used with transfer cases that have yellow-metal synchros. (That includes us.)

I’m sure it would do extremely well in the diffs though.

 

[hoot504]

GL-5, which suggests it probably shouldn’t be used with transfer cases that have yellow-metal synchros. (That includes us.)

I’m sure it would do extremely well in the diffs though.

I have some on order and that’s where I plan on running it.

 

[LCH21]

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-85-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svl/

I'm surprised this hasn't been brought up. Anyone running it?

That's what I run in my LC's diffs. Coming up on the next change in 600 miles. I use the Toyota Unicorn blood in the T-case however.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

has been validated to haul 15k+ GCWR

really?

and you tow a 15k trailer with your LC?

 

[TeCKis300]

really?

and you tow a 15k trailer with your LC?

GCWR as in Gross Combined Weight Rating which includes the two vehicle.

 

[weaponoffreedom]

GCWR as in Gross Combined Weight Rating which includes the two vehicle.

has been validated to haul 15k+ GCWR.

Yeah I am reading 15K+, meaning more than 15k. The LC weighs 6k dry, so you are saying that the LC is "validated" to tow more than the Tundra or equal?

 

[TeCKis300]

Yeah I am reading 15K+, meaning more than 15k. The LC weighs 6k dry, so you are saying that the LC is "validated" to tow more than the Tundra or equal?

View attachment 3877997

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) is typically = GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of tow vehicle + Maximum Towing Capacity

For the LC200

• GVWR: 7,385 lbs
• Curb Weight: 5,815 lbs
• Maximum Payload: 1,320 lbs
• Maximum Towing Capacity: 8,100 lbs

7385 lbs + 8100 lbs = 15,485 lbs GCWR

Interestingly, most configurations of the Tundra were below the LC200 GCWR, unless they had a Tow Package with the highest configs up to 16k GCWR.