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- #21
LC 200 Gear oil
- Thread starter weaponoffreedom
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It’s your rig. I’d trust what others before you had used. Some are totally fine with regular gear oil. Others (I don’t know when exactly the change happened) need special 75W stuff. Check the other thread and prior posts for confirmation if you don’t have your owner’s manual.
Finally, I’d trust any rando on mud more than some contracted email guy from “Mobil” given some of the advice I’ve received from even some of the higher end oil retailers.
Finally, I’d trust any rando on mud more than some contracted email guy from “Mobil” given some of the advice I’ve received from even some of the higher end oil retailers.
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- #23
I do have the manual.
As many here may know, I am new to LCs. there are certain "inside pieces" of info, with in any community, that is not easily seen, or spoke about outside of said community.......which is why i join with you fellas.
My manual states 75w90 GL5 in the transfer case.
I did read, many notes on several forums that there was a fluid change in 2010, but I cannot verify easily. If you ask the dealer, they just tell you, "we use toyota fluid" and none these day can tell you what it is......I suppose to hold the mystic of the LC.
I am not going to pay $60 buck a can for something that is printed with Toyota on it. Water pumps yes, coils yes, hard parts yes, but anything other than AHC fluid will be aftermarket......which works very well on mine I will add.
I agree on the Mobil idiot from India, as they a ****tards. But I figured an official inquiry might be nice to publish here.
Amsoil and HPL state that their GL5 is yellow metal safe, due to the composition of the oil. Really this is not a everyday service, and Amsoil for instance should be fine for 60k.......and it will take me a long time to get there for sure.
bloc
SILVER Star
I started the $80/liter thread (now $117), and one of my primary questions that IIRC was never answered was why the unicorn tears seemed so unique from all other gear oil, between the dark color and the distinct odor difference. It just didn’t seem like “regular” 75w gear oil repackaged and price jacked up. Why those unique traits, aligning with the change in transfer case part number, etc.
But none of this should matter for an 09 anyway.
I will say, I personally wouldn’t go 60k on transfer fluid in an AWD 200. Every inch your vehicle moves has power to the front driveline transmitted through a chain in the xfer case. Sticking with the severe recommendation of 30k, even for one with an easy life, seems more appropriate, especially when you consider how little the cost per mile.
But none of this should matter for an 09 anyway.
I will say, I personally wouldn’t go 60k on transfer fluid in an AWD 200. Every inch your vehicle moves has power to the front driveline transmitted through a chain in the xfer case. Sticking with the severe recommendation of 30k, even for one with an easy life, seems more appropriate, especially when you consider how little the cost per mile.
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- #25
Very good argument.
Do you think Amsoil or HPL (for instance) would not be up to the task of 60K with no aversae effects? Or......is your opinion based on the hardware itself?
Typical "synthetic" GL5 oils, just like Toyota gear oil, are less shear stable than the two I mentioned above. In short, they last longer.
You will not get an arguement out of me about intervals, as frequent and regular changes are key. Of course, their intervals are based on their fluids.
I, for one think, that using the severe interval, whilst not driving in severe conditions, will not double the service life of a unit. Nor will intervals under severe service, yield a service life of a "normally used" unit.
Dont get me wrong. I will probably choose a cheaper M1 or Valvoline oil, and change it every two years or something like that......it also allows removal or debris from the housing.
I did notice that the book only specs a 75w90, GL5, and states nothing about "synthetic fluid".....food for thought.
You are correct.
Differentials on our 200’s are not limited slip (thankfully), so the modifier is NOT required.
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- #27
So....Delvac would be ok. I did notice they did not call out any specific friction modifiers or additives either in the book.
bloc
SILVER Star
If our case used a gear setup like the 80-series and I think 100, I'd be less nervous about things, but with this chain setup and the chain simply stretching potentially rendering a case useless, as well as the very small volume of fluid in there, it seems manageable to err on the side of caution.
For the record I do use the Ravenol substitute for LF. It is reasonably priced and easily sourced.
Also, we don't know whether toyota changed the spec because they saw something they didn't like about how the cases were aging in the long term.
The center diff is technically limited slip, but not in the traditional format.
good point re: Torsen being a limited slip. However, in the sense of friction modifiers typically necessary for the common limited slip (usually rear) differential that features a clutch that needs some adhesion to function as designed, a Torsen has no need for friction modifiers for its effective functioning.
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
I generally use Supertech synthetic 75-90 from Walmart. 
I'm all about geeking out, but pragmatically, this is easy. Mobil 1 75W-90 Gear Lube LS simply covers all applications that require SAE 75W-90 and API GL-5.
What's the difference between an LS and non-LS gearset? 98% the same except in an LS, the diff carrier has active friction based clutch or gear type features, versus an open diff that is just simple gears. LS fluids still have to serve all of the other guts, gears, and bearings to the same standard no less. LS just means smoother frictional qualities that minimize the difference between static and sliding friction states, to reduce potential chatter.
To wit, Mobil 1 does not offer a separate non-LS 75W-90 fluid. In a venn diagram of all types of diffs and gears that call for SAE 75W-90 and API GL-5, it covers everything.
Easy to source and can be found dirt cheap for a high quality fluid.
What's the difference between an LS and non-LS gearset? 98% the same except in an LS, the diff carrier has active friction based clutch or gear type features, versus an open diff that is just simple gears. LS fluids still have to serve all of the other guts, gears, and bearings to the same standard no less. LS just means smoother frictional qualities that minimize the difference between static and sliding friction states, to reduce potential chatter.
To wit, Mobil 1 does not offer a separate non-LS 75W-90 fluid. In a venn diagram of all types of diffs and gears that call for SAE 75W-90 and API GL-5, it covers everything.
Easy to source and can be found dirt cheap for a high quality fluid.
I'm just going to add a little on the subject of more frequent oil changes. The cleaner the oil the longer the life of the mechanical bits inside. I can't speak too much on chains, but for gears and rolling bearings the cleanliness of the oil can make a pretty major difference in the calculated life of the system. Going deeper, it's the smallest particles in the oil that make the most difference in life too, not the large ones. All those small particles will be generated by the gears in the system through normal use, and you can't stop it. So by frequently changing your oil in all these gearboxes you are extending the calculated life of the system. Toyota's recommendations are based on a life target set by the engineering team early in the design phase, but you can do better by being more diligent.
Now taking a step back, in all likelihood something is going to fail because of some outside event/condition that has nothing to do with oil changes, so don't think about it too much lol.
Now taking a step back, in all likelihood something is going to fail because of some outside event/condition that has nothing to do with oil changes, so don't think about it too much lol.
it’s easy to get wrapped around the axle with analysis paralysis for this stuff.
Your thought about more frequent changes with fluid that meets spec will likely yield better longevity vs boutique oil use with longer drain intervals. I say this while using HPL in my 200. I have a case of valvoline diff oil I bought because it was cheap recently. I’ll use that in other applications, but it says GL-5 on the label - so zero hesitation in using it.
I can’t remember who said it on the forum, but ultimately the tcase and differentials do generate particulate that you don’t want bouncing around in there creating a positive feedback situation. It sounds like there’s plenty of good advice above and that you’re on the right track of figuring out an interval that works for you.
Your thought about more frequent changes with fluid that meets spec will likely yield better longevity vs boutique oil use with longer drain intervals. I say this while using HPL in my 200. I have a case of valvoline diff oil I bought because it was cheap recently. I’ll use that in other applications, but it says GL-5 on the label - so zero hesitation in using it.
I can’t remember who said it on the forum, but ultimately the tcase and differentials do generate particulate that you don’t want bouncing around in there creating a positive feedback situation. It sounds like there’s plenty of good advice above and that you’re on the right track of figuring out an interval that works for you.
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- #34
You would be right at home at www.bobistheoilguy.com
I agree. Frequent changes with a "lesser" fluid is better than using a high dollar boutique oil.
No real reason to IMO.
The 200-series and diffs with 75w85 has been validated to haul 15k+ GCWR. Unless you're towing at that threshold and over, the recommended weights will last the lifetime of the vehicle. More viscosity will just waste gas.
I do tow at 15k+ lbs and I will run 75W-90 with shorter change intervals.
Agree the chain in the transfer case has to do front driveline duty all the time and some tender love and care will likely make a difference in the long haul.
Just an anecdotal observation and I'm curious what others see. When I change fluids, the transfer case seems to be easiest on oils looking fresher than what comes out of the front and rear diff. Rear diff seems to work the hardest.
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- #40
yeah no much happens in there unless you are in 4 lo
I n the past in changing it in other vehicles, of note a vehicle that is used in 4wd and towing heavy, I have never seen anyhting other than a little discoloration.
I n the past in changing it in other vehicles, of note a vehicle that is used in 4wd and towing heavy, I have never seen anyhting other than a little discoloration.
