LC 200 Build - Must Haves and Would love

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I love the look of your rig! I'm stocking the 200 forum as I currently have a 100. One day I would love to make the jump to a 200 and want your exact tire/wheel set-up. Question for you do you still have the stock gearing 3:90? are you considering re-gear to 4:30? I'm curious to get your take.

I have a tundra with 4:30 and slightly larger tires and it works great also considering I have a pop-up camper that I tow. I would imagine a LC all loaded up towing even a pop-up would feel bogged down with stock gearing.

thanks


Per your request to see how the ICON suspension sits on my LC. In your photo, it looks a bit more level and they probably adjusted for that. I prefer not to have my front end sitting level with the rear because I occasionally tow a trailer and don’t want my front end pointing to the sky. When the trailer is hooked up, I don’t look like my rear end is squatting and it sits pretty dang level. When I put a front bumper on at some point, I will have the front suspension adjusted to bring back to previous height. Now looking at the pic, I need to match my front window tints. Lol

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Correction "stalking"



I love the look of your rig! I'm stocking the 200 forum as I currently have a 100. One day I would love to make the jump to a 200 and want your exact tire/wheel set-up. Question for you do you still have the stock gearing 3:90? are you considering re-gear to 4:30? I'm curious to get your take.

I have a tundra with 4:30 and slightly larger tires and it works great also considering I have a pop-up camper that I tow. I would imagine a LC all loaded up towing even a pop-up would feel bogged down with stock gearing.

thanks
 
Correction "stalking"

I do have stock gears and if I were to stay with my 35”s, i would most definitely re-gear to 4:30, especially for towing.
 
I love the look of your rig! I'm stocking the 200 forum as I currently have a 100. One day I would love to make the jump to a 200 and want your exact tire/wheel set-up. Question for you do you still have the stock gearing 3:90? are you considering re-gear to 4:30? I'm curious to get your take.

I have a tundra with 4:30 and slightly larger tires and it works great also considering I have a pop-up camper that I tow. I would imagine a LC all loaded up towing even a pop-up would feel bogged down with stock gearing.

thanks
Your regearing choice might also depend on what year 200 you get. There is a lot more top end on the 6 speed than the 8 speed. I"m going to 4:88 with my 6 speed.
 
I would suggest you check out the adjustable Tough Dog lift that Trail Tailor sells. You can adjust them to be softer than stock or super firm. I wanted to maintain a comfy ride while getting extra lift for more clearance when off roading. These have been great! The kings and bp-51's just seemed like overkill for my primarily daily driver with occassional off road use. Make sure you get adjustable upper control arms if you get a lift, must have to maintain properly alignment specs. The LC is very capable in stock form, but the 2" lift has helped me clear some larger obstacles and do more challenging trails that I would not have cleared on stock ride height without damaging my bumpers and steps.

33" AT or MT tires on stock suspension are a must. If you get a lift, you can clear 34's. I plan to switch to 34's once my 33's wear out.

I would also recommend sliders. The stock steps are pretty weak and can easily get bent off roading. I bent mine on a trip to Windrock Offroad park in TN and have ordered some budbuilt rock sliders with a kickout. The kickout should give the kids a better step to climb up on the car.

Instead of onboard air I would suggest a viair or similar compressor. Works well, is portable and much cheaper.

A cheaper option than a freezer is just a good cooler. I found a 45qt Pelican cooler for $100 on craigslist. We left it in the LC and it kept our food and drinks cold even when leaving the LC parked in the hot sun for days. Ice lasted nearly a week with lots of opening and closing. If you pack it right, your food wont get wet.

Not a must have, but I plan on getting a winch either in an aftermarket bumper or trail tailor hidden winch mount. I primarily want it for peace of mind to keep me from worrying about getting stuck.
 
I do have stock gears and if I were to stay with my 35”s, i would most definitely re-gear to 4:30, especially for towing.
Love your 200. As an aside, is your avatar pic in the Silver Oak winery in Napa?
 
I want the build to be comfortable such that the kids wife or myself have our comforts and don’t hate the whole overland or camping experience because they miss their modern day comforts...
Good but divergent advice so far, prob based on folks assumptions or how they ride.
My 2 cents
Your request about need vs wants implies this is not a 'cost not a factor' build. (If budget is unlimited, just drop it off at Slee and ask for one of everything. But post pictures).
"Overland" is sufficiently vague as to explain the diverging POVs.
  • How are you getting there? If it is taking Forest Service or other dirt roads, minimal changes "needed." Stock suspension, tires, etc should be fine. Winch probably not necessary (until you start desiring to tackle tougher offeoading trails). If you "want to do some wheeling" and traverse tougher trails, rocks, etc, then start thinking about sliders and skids. Then suspension lift. lf you're planning a Pan-America trip, you probably aren't asking for our opinions and you know what you want!
  • Where are you overlanding? Your profile says MA, so your use case in New England to the Mid-Atlantic is likely different from someone out west who may cover serious miles between gas stations, grocery stores, etc. My 2008 thinks it can go about 255 miles on a tank. Less off-road, but are you likely to cover say 150+ miles off-road after topping off? If not, you can defer an aux fuel tank. That said , I have contemplated the smaller one just for daily suburban driving since fillups are so frequent! Also "where" related, from pics of folks out in CO, UT, etc. it looks like the "campsites" can be really Rocky, so I can see why a RTT is a big benefit. IME in VA to MA, I haven't had a problem finding a decent spot to put down a ground tent.
  • How long are you going to be away from Civilization? At your life stage (i.e., little ones), I would hazard a guess that you're going to be doing long weekends, maybe a week trip ? Perhaps more based on a "drive to a place, set up camp for a few days" model? Or maybe 2 stops? In which case the quick set up/tear down of RTT is not as important as in-camp convenience. Not 'gatekeeping', I just can't imagine any younglings would be too happy being seatbelted into a truck over rough roads for 8 hours a day for a week or more! I'm sure someone does it and their kids love it. But again, if that is you, you probably already know what you need.
So, assuming I heard you right and guessed the rest correctly, here are my thoughts.
  1. Minimal build to start. Stick with stock suspension. No steel bumpers or winch.
  2. With children, you WILL want side steps of some kind. I guess you could try it with stock side steps (especially if you plan on sticking to dirt roads and not off-road park obstacle trails). But they don't provide any real protection, and might end up damaging other panels. I'd consider steel step sliders. But usable for a step up into the truck, not an extremely high clearance version.
  3. Airing down to 15 or 20psi can make a big difference in traction and ride quality, so an air compressor is a must. I chose a Superflow MV-90 (IIRC) since I don't use it that often and it isn't adding weight to my daily. Also a LOT cheaper than OBA. But not as convenient, or as cool as a twin ARB. Get a tire patch kit while we are on the topic.
  4. Start with cooler if you are dipping toes in, for low $ and easy in/out. But I have yet to hear of anyone who thought buying a 12V fridge was a bad call. They can be taken out for DD. I don't have one, so grains of salt, but I concur with earlier comment about getting a standalone 12v battery pack. LiFePO4 chemistry. Unless you are doing this a LOT and for long durations, I'm not sure the hassle, cost, and weight of a 2nd battery system is worth it. Again, if I guessed wrong and you will get out a lot, it might be a good "nice to have".
  5. Get an REI Kingdom 6 tent. Prob the 'garage' add on. At their annual membership sales, can pick one up for $300. Get either the big REI full (queen?) Air mattress and bedding set for lux, or their 3" self inflating sleeping pads. RTT is cool but big $, big lbs up high, and little ones going up/down all night will get old.
  6. Scenario-appropriate recovery gear. MaxTrax, shovel probably are a good start. Plus the tire kit and air comp. Some comms, whether VHF/UHF amateur radio or sat phone up to you and how far in the boonies you'll get. And first aid kit.
  7. Recovery points. Less critical if you are on dirt roads and stay away from mud bogging. There is some debate about whether the stock ones are "legit" recovery points, vs shipping tie down points. Trail tailor, ARB, etc offer beefier ones for not too much$. You could probably get away with a hitch receiver recover point, like Factor55 or similar. Maybe this is a nice to have and not a must depending on your use case. (Obligatory "never ever recover via a tow ball or you will die" warning)
  8. Have a place for the kids to put their own trash in the back seat. Check out Blue Ridge Overland for that and some good products for organizing the kid's essentials.
Nice to have:
  1. Slightly larger, A/T tires without needing lift. Someone earlier had the range. Stock is 31.5" diam, 32.7" supposed to fit w/lift. Dunno how much above that works w stock. Warning if your kids are little, taller tires make it harder for them to get in and out. Maybe not much from stock to 32.5, but hitting 34 does, since it also means adding 2-3" suspension lift.
  2. Skid plates, depending on the roads/trails. Just for some insurance.
  3. Maybe a better roof rack depending on how much you store up top. (May be a must if you go RTT).
The rest is just buy what you need to enjoy the camping. Camp stove, table. Comfy chairs. Lanterns Awning probably less necessarsy in heavily-forested NE, esp if you have a tent the size and layout similar to REI Kingdom 6. Or bring one of the cheapish 10x10 freestanding ones. Can leave it set up at camp and not have to pack it up every time you want to drive.

Lift and suspension can be nice / luxury, but not a must, and arguably could negatively impact DD and overland ability (handling, ingress/egress, mileage?)
Anyhow, that's my thoughts based on some assumptions and deduction. Didn't intend to be this long, but writing this in my phone browser is a PITA so I'm not spending any more time trying to edit it! Esp because I could have guessed totally wrong .

Edit: I was assuming stock 18" wheels. If you are on 20" rims, you have less sidewall to play width for impact/ride, and I think less range to air down. In which case you might look into a set of 17" or 18" rims and A/T tires. And maybe keep stock rims and all season/highway tires for DD economy
 
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  1. Slightly larger, A/T tires without needing lift. Someone earlier had the range. Stock is 31.5" diam, 32.7" supposed to fit w/lift. Dunno how much above that works w stock. Warning if your kids are little, taller tires make it harder for them to get in and out. Maybe not much from stock to 32.5, but hitting 34 does, since it also means adding 2-3" suspension lift.

Generally agree with your thoughts. Would like to clarify a misconception however.

On an IFS suspension truck, lift is almost an independent consideration from tire clearance. Lifting IFS, doesn't really create more clearance. Unlike solid front axles, a lifted IFS suspension will travel exactly the same stroke from compressed to full droop. It just changes where the suspension is at rest. As we off-road, the tire still has to clear throughout the suspension stroke.
 
Love your 200. As an aside, is your avatar pic in the Silver Oak winery in Napa?
Thanks! Yes, during one of our annual wine trips.
 
Thanks! Yes, during one of our annual wine trips.
While their wine is not my favorite (too oakey), that was the best tour we took when we were out there. Need to go again!
 
Good but divergent advice so far, prob based on folks assumptions or how they ride.
My 2 cents
Your request about need vs wants implies this is not a 'cost not a factor' build. (If budget is unlimited, just drop it off at Slee and ask for one of everything. But post pictures).
"Overland" is sufficiently vague as to explain the diverging POVs.
  • How are you getting there? If it is taking Forest Service or other dirt roads, minimal changes "needed." Stock suspension, tires, etc should be fine. Winch probably not necessary (until you start desiring to tackle tougher offeoading trails). If you "want to do some wheeling" and traverse tougher trails, rocks, etc, then start thinking about sliders and skids. Then suspension lift. lf you're planning a Pan-America trip, you probably aren't asking for our opinions and you know what you want!
  • Where are you overlanding? Your profile says MA, so your use case in New England to the Mid-Atlantic is likely different from someone out west who may cover serious miles between gas stations, grocery stores, etc. My 2008 thinks it can go about 255 miles on a tank. Less off-road, but are you likely to cover say 150+ miles off-road after topping off? If not, you can defer an aux fuel tank. That said , I have contemplated the smaller one just for daily suburban driving since fillups are so frequent! Also "where" related, from pics of folks out in CO, UT, etc. it looks like the "campsites" can be really Rocky, so I can see why a RTT is a big benefit. IME in VA to MA, I haven't had a problem finding a decent spot to put down a ground tent.
  • How long are you going to be away from Civilization? At your life stage (i.e., little ones), I would hazard a guess that you're going to be doing long weekends, maybe a week trip ? Perhaps more based on a "drive to a place, set up camp for a few days" model? Or maybe 2 stops? In which case the quick set up/tear down of RTT is not as important as in-camp convenience. Not 'gatekeeping', I just can't imagine any younglings would be too happy being seatbelted into a truck over rough roads for 8 hours a day for a week or more! I'm sure someone does it and their kids love it. But again, if that is you, you probably already know what you need.
So, assuming I heard you right and guessed the rest correctly, here are my thoughts.
  1. Minimal build to start. Stick with stock suspension. No steel bumpers or winch.
  2. With children, you WILL want side steps of some kind. I guess you could try it with stock side steps (especially if you plan on sticking to dirt roads and not off-road park obstacle trails). But they don't provide any real protection, and might end up damaging other panels. I'd consider steel step sliders. But usable for a step up into the truck, not an extremely high clearance version.
  3. Airing down to 15 or 20psi can make a big difference in traction and ride quality, so an air compressor is a must. I chose a Superflow MV-90 (IIRC) since I don't use it that often and it isn't adding weight to my daily. Also a LOT cheaper than OBA. But not as convenient, or as cool as a twin ARB. Get a tire patch kit while we are on the topic.
  4. Start with cooler if you are dipping toes in, for low $ and easy in/out. But I have yet to hear of anyone who thought buying a 12V fridge was a bad call. They can be taken out for DD. I don't have one, so grains of salt, but I concur with earlier comment about getting a standalone 12v battery pack. LiFePO4 chemistry. Unless you are doing this a LOT and for long durations, I'm not sure the hassle, cost, and weight of a 2nd battery system is worth it. Again, if I guessed wrong and you will get out a lot, it might be a good "nice to have".
  5. Get an REI Kingdom 6 tent. Prob the 'garage' add on. At their annual membership sales, can pick one up for $300. Get either the big REI full (queen?) Air mattress and bedding set for lux, or their 3" self inflating sleeping pads. RTT is cool but big $, big lbs up high, and little ones going up/down all night will get old.
  6. Scenario-appropriate recovery gear. MaxTrax, shovel probably are a good start. Plus the tire kit and air comp. Some comms, whether VHF/UHF amateur radio or sat phone up to you and how far in the boonies you'll get. And first aid kit.
  7. Recovery points. Less critical if you are on dirt roads and stay away from mud bogging. There is some debate about whether the stock ones are "legit" recovery points, vs shipping tie down points. Trail tailor, ARB, etc offer beefier ones for not too much$. You could probably get away with a hitch receiver recover point, like Factor55 or similar. Maybe this is a nice to have and not a must depending on your use case. (Obligatory "never ever recover via a tow ball or you will die" warning)
  8. Have a place for the kids to put their own trash in the back seat. Check out Blue Ridge Overland for that and some good products for organizing the kid's essentials.
Nice to have:
  1. Slightly larger, A/T tires without needing lift. Someone earlier had the range. Stock is 31.5" diam, 32.7" supposed to fit w/lift. Dunno how much above that works w stock. Warning if your kids are little, taller tires make it harder for them to get in and out. Maybe not much from stock to 32.5, but hitting 34 does, since it also means adding 2-3" suspension lift.
  2. Skid plates, depending on the roads/trails. Just for some insurance.
  3. Maybe a better roof rack depending on how much you store up top. (May be a must if you go RTT).
The rest is just buy what you need to enjoy the camping. Camp stove, table. Comfy chairs. Lanterns Awning probably less necessarsy in heavily-forested NE, esp if you have a tent the size and layout similar to REI Kingdom 6. Or bring one of the cheapish 10x10 freestanding ones. Can leave it set up at camp and not have to pack it up every time you want to drive.

Lift and suspension can be nice / luxury, but not a must, and arguably could negatively impact DD and overland ability (handling, ingress/egress, mileage?)
Anyhow, that's my thoughts based on some assumptions and deduction. Didn't intend to be this long, but writing this in my phone browser is a PITA so I'm not spending any more time trying to edit it! Esp because I could have guessed totally wrong .

Edit: I was assuming stock 18" wheels. If you are on 20" rims, you have less sidewall to play width for impact/ride, and I think less range to air down. In which case you might look into a set of 17" or 18" rims and A/T tires. And maybe keep stock rims and all season/highway tires for DD economy
This is a great post. These trucks are so amazingly capable in stock form that you don't really need to change anything if you don't want to for your stated purpose. I would focus on keeping things fun for the kids (lots of smores and activities) and keeping things easy on you, since you will likely be the one setting up and tearing down.
 
Not a must have, but I plan on getting a winch either in an aftermarket bumper or trail tailor hidden winch mount. I primarily want it for peace of mind to keep me from worrying about getting stuck.

Consider a set of MaxTrax instead. They're lighter, cheaper, vastly safer, and just more useful for the kind of occasional use you describe.

I've used my set twice in the last week to help people stuck in snow storms. One guy was stuck in front of my house, so all I had to do was put boots on, go out to the garage, and he was unstuck 20 seconds later. The other guy spun into a snow bank. Rather than block the entire street for 15 minutes while I lined up my vehicle and setup the winch etc etc, and rather than have to try and find and use inadequate recovery points on his vehicle, I just pulled over, hopped out, and he was on his way again in 20 seconds.

I also carry a snatch strap, shackles, and a rear hitch recovery point in all my vehicles all the time in case the Maxtrax aren't enough. Again, lighter and cheaper. It's unlikely that you'd get yourself more stuck than either of the above can handle if you're only tackling forest service roads and simple trails.

Of course, I'll have a Warn on all three of my trucks by the end of the month, so take this with a grain of salt.
 
While their wine is not my favorite (too oakey), that was the best tour we took when we were out there. Need to go again!
My favorites are the smaller private wineries. We travel all over wine touring. Happy Canyon, Grimm and Dragonette(warehouse) our amazing wineries/wines I highly recommend. In Napa Valley region...Rudd, A.Rafanelli, Edge Hill, Cliff Lede and Hundred Acre are some other favorites. 🍷🍷
 
I'd take my time, get a feel for what YOU want/need. This truck is VERY capable out of the box! You can always build it after you figure out what you need! It's unique to everyone.

Top of my list was looks related. I went with the BBS TRD Pro wheels (in Black --bronze doesn't work on a silver vehicle) and new tires for daily driving and looks, and Rock Warrior wheels and K02's for off road. Paint protection film and tinting the driver/front passenger windows. Some stuff for interior organization (interior storage and cubbies are lacking). I still want to get Bud Built sliders and I'll be done with my build. If I was truly going to overland I would grab an overloading trailer--I don't want to choke the interior with drawers and fridges.


And DEFINITELY, if you are going to add a winch, learn how to operate it safely. Lots of energy stored in steel or polymer cables pulling a stuck 6000#+ vehicle. And lots of videos on youtube showing how it can end tragically.

IMG_7522.jpeg


IMG_8421.jpeg
 
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Consider a set of MaxTrax instead. They're lighter, cheaper, vastly safer, and just more useful for the kind of occasional use you describe.

I've used my set twice in the last week to help people stuck in snow storms. One guy was stuck in front of my house, so all I had to do was put boots on, go out to the garage, and he was unstuck 20 seconds later. The other guy spun into a snow bank. Rather than block the entire street for 15 minutes while I lined up my vehicle and setup the winch etc etc, and rather than have to try and find and use inadequate recovery points on his vehicle, I just pulled over, hopped out, and he was on his way again in 20 seconds.

I also carry a snatch strap, shackles, and a rear hitch recovery point in all my vehicles all the time in case the Maxtrax aren't enough. Again, lighter and cheaper. It's unlikely that you'd get yourself more stuck than either of the above can handle if you're only tackling forest service roads and simple trails.

Of course, I'll have a Warn on all three of my trucks by the end of the month, so take this with a grain of salt.


I tend to do more than service roads and simple trails. I try to stay out of deep water and mud holes, but like crawling over various obstacles. Maxtrax would be something I add once I have a way to mount them outside the vehicle. Dont want to bring dirty bulky maxtrax into the vehicle.
 
I tend to do more than service roads and simple trails. I try to stay out of deep water and mud holes, but like crawling over various obstacles. Maxtrax would be something I add once I have a way to mount them outside the vehicle. Dont want to bring dirty bulky maxtrax into the vehicle.

I have this MaxTrax bag for mine: MAXTRAX Transport Bag

Keeps the dirt out of the interior.
 
Those are great, or you can just strap them to your roof. If you want to get fancy, the mounting pins lock, and you just need to drill four holes for them.

The biggest thing I dislike about having MaxTrax outside the vehicle is how much they stand out & attract attention. And experience shows that fumbling about with locks/hardware is no fun when you're stuck in knee-deep snow, freezing temps, and more snow coming down every second.

My ideal setup would be to have a pad-locking container on the roof (preferably under a roof rack) into which the MaxTrax can simply be slid (in/out). Similar to the under-rack table mounts FrontRunner offers.
 
The biggest thing I dislike about having MaxTrax outside the vehicle is how much they stand out & attract attention. And experience shows that fumbling about with locks/hardware is no fun when you're stuck in knee-deep snow, freezing temps, and more snow coming down every second.

My ideal setup would be to have a pad-locking container on the roof (preferably under a roof rack) into which the MaxTrax can simply be slid (in/out). Similar to the under-rack table mounts FrontRunner offers.
Come on eatSleepWoof, these don't stand out at all LOL
maxtrax.jpg
 

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