Largest (power wise) battery that will fit in stock gasser? (1 Viewer)

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Hey, thought I had this covered when I left town for a week and ordered a NAPA commercial 1300 CCA battery that measured to barely fit. Came back in town and it's here but does not quite fit.

So. I'm looking for a recommendation on the most powerful battery someone out there has managed to fit into the stock US battery tray. I don't want to cut anything on the tray to fit. Just want the most power. I also don't want to spend the money on the Orbitals or other spend gel cells - I'm a traditional lead battery guy.

Informationally, the DieHard SUV battery in it lasted well for 6 years but recent testing by Consumer's Reports indicates DieHards are now mid pack at best. I've got an EverStart on hold until tomorrow unless something big comes up here. It's got 900 CCA and is a size 34 like the current one.

Will a Group 27 fit? Looks very close - anyone tried?

DougM
 
Doug,
Raven did some research and posted some good information on battery sizes and capacities for the 80. I will search and post links if you cannot find the threads.

Do you need one with the terminals reversed (i.e. NEGATIVE post next to the body) or will a standard configuration work for you?

-B-
 
Yes, reversed posts as it's the factory harness. I'll do some searching but if you know the links or feel like using your famous search karma...

DougM
 
Will a Group 27 fit? Looks very close - anyone tried?

DougM

The "correct" battery for a 93-97 80 is a 27F. The 91-92 uses a 27. The only difference is post orientation.

The "F" (or FORD) batteries have the positive post to your left when you view the battery with the posts on the far side of the battery. "Standard" batteries have the posts reversed.

If you want a big-ass battery you can buy a group 31 for an early Dodge-Cummins. The factory versions have well over 1,000 CCA........:eek:

You can weld with those bad boys.....;)
 
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Excellent info. Interesting that the one I have on hold (a group 34) has better specs than most larger group 27s. Bigger is usually better in my book however, so it will be a horse race tomorrow to find a 27F (thanks) with greater than 900 CCA. I'd think that would be better than a 34 since size/weight and quantity of lead are generally an indicator of strength and life.

DougM
 
The 34 is a really small case. Quite small when compared to a 27/27F.

They HAVE to be giving up something in the mix.
 
I think this is on the short list, but you'd need to modify your charging system:

LS2700.jpg


MCA @ 30 deg............1100 amps
F CCA @ 0 deg. F....... 800 amps
Reserve Capacity........175 minutes
Size Weight ...............6.9H" X 6.5"W X 13.0" L 53 Lbs.

Pretty solid amp specs for a deep cycle...

http://www.dualpro.com/LSFRAMESET.htm
 
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Optima D31 will fit. I have a D31M in the passenger side battery tray.

Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 F 900
Cranking Amps @ 32 F 1125
Reserve Capacity 155
Capacity (C/20 rate) 75
Internal Resistance (ohms) .0025

PHYSICAL SPECS
Length 12-13/16"
Width 6-1/2"
Height 9-3/8"
Minimum Weight (lb) 59.8
 
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Here is what I do:

Look in your yellow pages for a wholesale battery wherehouse. Call them and ask for a scratch & dent. Tell em' you want the most powerful they have.

I have bought many from Interstate warehouse that are 1000 CCA for $25 each. These are NEW batteries that they cant sell as new cause' they have some damage from warehouse.

Hey I am cheap...or should I say frugal...
 
I have the Concord Lifeline GPL-27T. It's a standard size Group 27 AGM battery . 100 Amp Hours, 186 minutes reserve capacity. 65lbs -- one heavy mofo. No F version available, so you'd have to tinker to get the OEM harness to work.

X2 on Spud's recommendation. Best prices I've found for batteries are at battery wholesale warehouses. Generally cool people who know their business, too.
 
I'm running yellow top Optima D31A batteries in both of my '96s. Two in my build truck, one in the wife's red truck. It is in the dual battery faq.

They've become -very- scarce lately though. I've seen a rumor that the military is buying them all up.

Note... Some have had problems getting their + cables to 'stretch' to the center post Optima D31A. It may not work for everyone.

YMMV
 
I'm running yellow top Optima D31A batteries in both of my '96s. Two in my build truck, one in the wife's red truck. It is in the dual battery faq.

They've become -very- scarce lately though. I've seen a rumor that the military is buying them all up.

Note... Some have had problems getting their + cables to 'stretch' to the center post Optima D31A. It may not work for everyone.

YMMV

Group 31 yellowtops are used in industrial and military application and are usually sold thru their commerical/military channels. For the regular consumer, the D31M deep cycle/starting marine battery can be purchased from most regular Optima dealers. My local Autozone ordered my D31M and was in their store in less than 3 days.

The D31M bluetop has terminals in a different location than the regular D31 yellowtop. The D31M have offset terminals that makes it easier to fit the short positive wire in the driver's side battery tray.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publ....0001.ColumnPar.0006.File.tmp/D31M_082104.pdf
 
I have the Concord Lifeline GPL-27T. It's a standard size Group 27 AGM battery . 100 Amp Hours, 186 minutes reserve capacity. 65lbs -- one heavy mofo.

How long have you had this battery, and is it your primary?

I've worried that having an AGM as a primary battery with an automotive charging system would cook the battery, since AGM's typically prefer smart temperature compensating chargers.

Did you add any regulation?
 
How long have you had this battery, and is it your primary?

I've worried that having an AGM as a primary battery with an automotive charging system would cook the battery, since AGM's typically prefer smart temperature compensating chargers.

Did you add any regulation?

Aren't Optimas AGM? I have 2 that were scratch and dents are are doing just fine...
 
I run an Odyssey PC1500DT but I currently don't have a winch. If/when I cross that bridge I'll run at least a Odyssey 1700 as the second battery.


Here is some info on AGM batteries.



[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]AGM Battery Technology[/FONT]


[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=+1]AGM (Absorption Glass Mat) sealed battery technology was originally developed in 1985 for military aircraft where power, weight, safety, and reliability were paramount considerations. [/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]

AGM battery technology has continued to develop and offer improvements over other sealed battery technologies. AGM technology has become the next step in the evolution of both starting and deep cycle sealed batteries for marine, RV, and aviation applications. This "next generation" technology delivers increased safety, performance, and service life over all other existing sealed battery types, including gel technology.
[/FONT]
[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]
In AGM sealed batteries, the acid is absorbed between the plates and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat. No silica gel is necessary. This glass mat absorbs and immobilizes the acid while still keeping the acid available to the plates. This allows a fast reaction between acid and plate material.

[/FONT] [FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]The AGM battery has an extremely low internal electrical resistance. This, combined with faster acid migration, allows the AGM batteries to deliver and absorb higher rates of amperage than other sealed batteries during discharging and charging. In addition, AGM technology batteries can be charged at normal lead-acid regulated charging voltages, therefore, it is not necessary to recalibrate charging systems or purchase special chargers.

[/FONT] [FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]DC Battery Specialists is currently distributing LIFELINE and OPTIMA AGM technology batteries. We have replaced our gel lines by upgrading to AGM technology batteries.

[/FONT] [FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]OPTIMA batteries are specifically used for high performance starting. [/FONT]
[FONT=Geneva, Arial, Helvetica]LIFELINE batteries are used in starting and in deep cycle applications. [/FONT]​
 
How long have you had this battery, and is it your primary?

I've worried that having an AGM as a primary battery with an automotive charging system would cook the battery, since AGM's typically prefer smart temperature compensating chargers.

Did you add any regulation?

I've "had" two for 6 months -- accumulating parts for dual-battery & winch installation. Just installed one as the primary tonight. :eek:

As indicated above, it took a little shifting of the wire harness to get the + and - moved around. I also replaced the fusible link, as I had a "spare", and the orginal has somewhat cracked insulation. :)

Gel cells are very picky for charging, and die quickly if you get the voltage outside a narrow range. AGM are not very sensitive. They have very low internal resistance, essentially won't/can't boil (unless your charge voltage is > 14.4 volts), and have very high charge acceptance. Here's a quote from Lifeline's write-up on charging:

Charging Procedures for Lifeline AGM Batteries

There are a lot of different opinions about battery charging and we hope this will help clear up any confusion that our customers have. AGM batteries are still technically a lead acid battery and they charge very similar to a wet cell. Regardless of what some rumors portray, AGM batteries are not as sensitive as once believed. They often get confused with Gel Batteries, which are very sensitive to voltage and they need a special charger.

I did a *bunch* of research on battery technologies, manufacturers, charging systems, etc. before I purchased these. They're spendy on a per-battery basis, but reasonable on a per-AH or per-RC basis.
 
Aren't Optimas AGM? I have 2 that were scratch and dents are are doing just fine...

My understanding is that they're a "spiral-cell" -- similar to AGM, but not exactly the same.

When I did my research, they don't have the same AH or RC per unit volume, and come in somewhat non-standard sizes.

That said, I have a Red-top in my non-LC-SUV. :)
 
I did a *bunch* of research on battery technologies, manufacturers, charging systems, etc. before I purchased these. They're spendy on a per-battery basis, but reasonable on a per-AH or per-RC basis.

I went through the same obsessive research drill, and ended up buying a DualPro AGM as my secondary. I keep it isolated and avoid over charging. I've been holding off getting an AGM for the primary because of concern with over charging.

It's amazing at how much contradictory information there is out there on the charging sensitivity of AGM and Gel, or even Optimas for that matter. I'm very interested in seeing how your new primary works out for you.

Although Dualpro told me the AGM is fine as an automotive primary, the best sources still seem to say the automative systems will tend to overcharge them, and that a three stage temperature sensitive smart charger is preferred. They also need to be equalized periodically if you're doing a lot of full discharges.

What I really liked about the AGM is the high amperage combined with the ability to totally discharge 400 times with minimal loss of efficiency... according to the brochures of that is.
 
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Idahodoug, what battery did you end up with? or are you still searching?
 

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