Land Cruiser Trivia! Which of these switches is the 4wd indicator?

[MYSHERPA]

Which one of these is the L4 indicator switch A or B? (Note: I am not looking for the 4WD Indicator switch, I already know where that is..sorry about the misleading title of this thread, just testing ya...). Also whichever one isn't the L4 indicator, what is it for?

Thanks in advance!

 

[MYSHERPA]

80 views and not a single person can help me yet? This pic is of the back of the transfer case BTW.

 

[rove_mcanus]

I should know, i've fiddled with those switches before. I think it's B. The other one will be the neutral position switch (that lights up the at/p light when the transfer is in neutral and transmission in park).

If you want to double check, get a multimeter and check for a continuity change on the switches. One will change when you put the transfer in L and one will change when you put it in N

 

[Dutchy]

Or disconnect one and see wichever light doesnt come on.

 

[MYSHERPA]

Yeah I should give that a try, i'm trying to figure out why my 4lo light wont come on (among other things), I think i might just have a burned out bulb...just another step in trying to get my lockers to work. I think it's my CDL actuator thats bad, but I wanted to check the 4Lo indicator in the process of elimination. I can't figure out why I can only get power to the actuator motor when i put it into 4Hi after being in 4lo like the actuator is getting power to disengage but not engage. 4lo just shows 0 voltage.. on top of that the 9V battery test to the actuator yields no actuator sound at all.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Bud_Dude]

It's been a while since anyone has posted on this, but just in case someone is still interested in this topic... Today while fighting the usual battle of the locking diffs, I determined that in fact switch "A" in the picture above is the Transfer case Neutral switch and switch "B" is the L4 switch... The L4 switch being bad in my case and much harder to remove than the neutral switch.

I also came upon a process for renewing these "bad" switches which has worked perfectly on two switches I've tested it on - see the following link: CDL Sensor/Switch Initially my bad switches had resistance readings of several megohms. I did not take to hitting the switch as described in the link; rather I tried to work in some 91% isopropyl alcohol around the plunger, I then connected the switches to 1 amp current limited power source (the 9V battery idea probably works just as well) and operated the switch 20-30 times. When done, I measured the resistance with a ohmmeter and amazingly both switches exhibited contact resistance of well under 1 ohm. Call me impressed...

 

[Redclayrob]

It's been a while since anyone has posted on this, but just in case someone is still interested in this topic... Today while fighting the usual battle of the locking diffs, I determined that in fact switch "A" in the picture above is the Transfer case Neutral switch and switch "B" is the L4 switch... The L4 switch being bad in my case and much harder to remove than the neutral switch.

I also came upon a process for renewing these "bad" switches which has worked perfectly on two switches I've tested it on - see the following link: CDL Sensor/Switch Initially my bad switches had resistance readings of several megohms. I did not take to hitting the switch as described in the link; rather I tried to work in some 91% isopropyl alcohol around the plunger, I then connected the switches to 1 amp current limited power source (the 9V battery idea probably works just as well) and operated the switch 20-30 times. When done, I measured the resistance with a ohmmeter and amazingly both switches exhibited contact resistance of well under 1 ohm. Call me impressed...

So can anyone list the sensor part numbers and locations? Pretty please??

 

[jonheld]

So can anyone list the sensor part numbers and locations? Pretty please??

 

[Bud_Dude]

I found that the Beck Arnley 201-1788 switch worked for all of these and for my front and rear e-lockers... Available on Amazon for about $16 each... Amazon product ASIN B001KSCYCI

 

[jonheld]

I found that the Beck Arnley 201-1788 switch worked for all of these and for my front and rear e-lockers... Available on Amazon for about $16 each... Amazon product ASIN B001KSCYCI

The neutral position switch is a different part number, but there's probably a Beck Arnley replacement for that one too.

 

[Damcowboy]

Thanks guys, thats great info.