KZJ78 Shut down issues and rear crank seal leak

[Slowcruiser]

Hi all, I have a KZJ78, manual transmission, with the 1kz-te engine. I recently had some work done on it, dobinsons suspension and steering stabilizer, top radiator hose, air filter, fuel filter, motor oil and filter change, diff and transmission oils, valve cover gasket, rear crank seal, new power steering pump, new drive belts. My mechanic also said he gave the venturi a little clean and replaced the gasket when he took the intake pipe off to change the valve cover gasket. Additionally, he found one of the negative battery terminals (I have 2 batteries run in parallel) was cracked and loose, I fixed that when I got it back from them.

Couple of issues since I got it back just a few days ago.

The first is that it now shuts down weird. No issues before taking it to them. It seems to take maybe half a second to shut down after I turn the ignition off, kind of feels like they engine just cuts out, and there is a kind of rattle and a small shake of the vehicle. Hard to describe, seemed to just shut down smoothly before all this work, I took a couple of videos, however I can't seem to upload them here. Everything else seems to be running really well, start up is fine, not noticing any electrical issues, batteries are charged up fine after that loose terminal connection. Could it be something to do with the venturi, or the fuel filter, or drive belts? Could that loose connection fried the ECU?

The second issue is that now I have a larger motor oil leak, seems to be from the same spot around the tranfer case where I had a small leak before all this work, it was few drops every few days, my mechanic told me it was the rear crank seal, I had one from a gasket kit I had, mechanic changed it, now 5 days after getting it back I have a large leak, looks like it is coming from the same spot as the first leak. Any thoughts? Could they just have done a bad job changing that rear crank seal? They showed me the old crank seal and it looked in bad shape, the new part I gave them looked identical.

On a good note, the suspension is great, I did a 1.5 lift (maybe gave me a little more since it seems like the old suspension had sagged), handles much better, better ride, steering is better, my 50-60km steering wobble is gone, haven't tried it off road yet, but so far it is great!

Thanks!
Matt

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Was that a genuine Toyota rear oil seal (i.e. do you have a genuine gaket kit that it came from?) You mention the leak comes from near the transfer - how does engine oil get there? Or do you mean between the engine and transmission (i.e. clutch housing)?

About the shut down, check the venturi is connected and shutting correctly. If the butterfly shaft is worn and there is a gap between the butterfly and the housing, that might be causeing shutdown issues. It might have been selaed with crud before the mechanic cleaned it.

 

[Slowcruiser]

Thanks for the reply. Yes you're right, I meant the leak is coming from between the engine and transmission, rear crank seal.

You know, I am not sure if it was a genuine toyota seal, maybe not, it was the correct part number, I've sourced a genuine toyota part that I will order if needed, mechanic is looking at it tomorrow.

That makes sense with the venturi, I'll take a look in there, if that's the problem I guess the solution is a whole new part? I also noticed today that my boost gauge is giving me really low readings, like 2-3 psi max, but the truck is running fine. Maybe thats also a result of the venturi not sealing properly?

Thanks again

 

[Slowcruiser]

Regarding my rear crank seal issue above, old one was leaking, new one (from a gasket kit I had) went in, then started leaking more heavily after about 30 miles of driving. We've finally opened it up, looks like the new seal has moved forward after install, per the attached photos. I guess I don't know if this was a genuine Toyota part, the mechanic felt that it went in easier than the old one came out. Any thoughts on why it would move forward? Could the seal be just slightly smaller? Could it be due to a larger issue?

I have bought a new rear crank seal from cruiser outfitters, they confirmed that it is the correct and genuine Toyota part for the engine. The mechanic plans to put this in next week, unless you all think there is any reason not to? They also recommending gluing it in place with some diesel seal glue used in VW diesels, not RTV, something else I guess.

Thanks for the help!

Matt