This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yeah I don't know man it's so bizarre, everything here is 1kz swapped. Hyundai's, Kia's... If i could just find a manual r151I have a little problem with the logic in the above statement.
If they disagree with it being the ecu, why are they commonly removing the ecu and changing over to manual injection?
At least you have very cheap labor there!
Actually to add to that, there are a lot of 3.0 hilux's around here... If i did find an r151 could i just use a 1kz ECU from something else like a hiace or Hilux?
If you can get your hands on one, especially if it is from a manual transmission one, I think it would be worth a try, you really have nothing to lose by plugging one in and seeing if it makes a difference. The only thing that we would not be able to answer is the one you try - is it good?
Yeah I don't have a 1KZ, or an automatic, so I don't know if the automatic ones have a separate ecu for the transmission. I am with you, I would have to think it would be the same one, so you need to source one from a manual truck. Maybe someone more familiar with the 1KZ prados can chime in on that one
An ECU from a 1kz equiped Surf with automatic is the only plug n play ECU that I know of you can use unmodified, and even then you will lose overdrive and all your shift points will be higher, much higher.
So this guy has hiace ecu's and builds harnesses to test engines for engine importers while they're still out the truck. The hiace ECU doesn't include provisions for at operation? The part number on these is 89661-21680 but it does sat 1kzte. A/T and same plug count... Also for the shift points of a surf ECU, could i just bring those down ? What this guy did but opposite?
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks for letting us know, and glad you found the issue! At least you had cheap labor to dig for the issue. Hopefully the rest of your trip is troublefree!
Was this pretty easy to do? I'm currently looking at doing the same.
I found this same info on the other thread but it lacks photos. Are pins 4 and 13 the TE1 and E1 pins in this photo? Not sure how they’re numbered based on the diagram.I found this on a prado site in AU:
Despite the 1kz-te being an old school technology engine its engine management is relatively sophisticated (It can be thought of as single point electronic fuel injection)
The codes stored in the ECU can be easily extracted at home and are displayed via the engine check light on the instrument cluster.
The codes can be read by shorting out pin 4 and 13 on the (16 pin) DLC3 connector located under the fuse box on the driver’s side of the dash.
A short piece of wire can be used to short the pins (tin the ends with solder and keep it in your tool kit)
Steps:
1) Make sure the ignition is OFF, throttle closed, Aircon OFF and if it’s automatic have it in P.
2) Turn the ignition ON but don’t crank or start the engine.
3) Put the jumper wire across the connector pins. (pin 4 and pin 13)
4) Read codes displayed via the engine check light.
5) Disconnect the wire when finished extracting codes and turn the ignition off.
Reading Codes:
Codes are read by the flashing of the “Check Engine” light on the instrument cluster.
If there are no codes held in the ECU then the light will have a continuous flash, on for ¼ second, off for ¼ second.
All the codes are two digit numbers. The first flash is 4.5 seconds from when you short the pins. It stays on for ½ a second then off for ½ a second. Then the first digit of the code will flash, followed by a 1.5 second pause then the second digit will flash.
Example:
4x flashes…. 1.5 second pause…2x flashes. Would be code 42.
If there is only one code the there will be a 4.5 second pause before the code will be repeated.
If more codes are present the codes the pause between codes will be 2.5 seconds.
To clear the codes from the memory of the ECU remove the fuse labeled “ECD” from the fuse box in the engine bay. Leave it out for 60 seconds.
(Don’t clear the memory by removing the battery or you will have to reset the clock, radio and windows)
Codes and what sensor/circuit it relates too:
1KZ-TE diagnostic codes:
12 = No RPM signal during cranking.
13 = No RPM signal after cranking and engine reaches 680rpm+
14 = Timing control signal (crankshaft angle 7 deg or more out from target)
15 = Throttle control motor (no signal)
16 = Auto trans control signal
18 = Spill control valve (no signal)
19 = Accel pedal position sensor (no signal)
22 = Coolant temp sensor
24 = Intake air temp sensor.
32 = Correction resistor signal.
33 = Intake constrictor control signal.
35 = Boost pressure sensor.
39 = Fuel temp sensor.
41 = Throttle position sensor.
42 = Vehicle speed sensor.
43 = Starter signal to ECU.
51 = Switch control system
96 = EGR valve lift sensor.
99 = Engine immobilizer.
The fault code 32 is a correction resistor short on the fuel pump. There are 2 of these resistors easily accessible on the side of the injection pump. I suspect one of them that perhaps looks after the fuel supply at higher RPM's is faulty in the harness or connector.
Now look into the KZ-TE manual above that @GTSSportCoupe so lovingly provided (page DI-32) and I suspect you will find the culprit. I hope you do not have to do all this from a cell phone screen. Sounds like it will be a quick fix as they refer to checking the plugs, harness, connections, etc. Good luck!
