Knuckle Studs (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

lowenbrau said:
Yup but not 5 hours down the trail.


X2.


At the " non-event" :rolleyes: last year in the Black Hills there were two people that suffered the broken stud fate....SUX!
 
Eric Winkworth said:
Are we talking people with 35's? or bigger?


Typically it is a hysteer issue that goes hand in hand with the larger tire.... more leverage on the steering components...I have seen stock studs fail on non-hysteer applications however...


:beer:
 
Woody , suprised to see TG get props here. Nuff said.

Marlin has those.

Ultimate fix , get the 9/16 studs and cones for a 44

Drill and retap the knuckle , drill and re countersink the steering arms and no more breaky.
 
peesalot said:
Woody , suprised to see TG get props here. Nuff said.

Marlin has those.

Ultimate fix , get the 9/16 studs and cones for a 44

Drill and retap the knuckle , drill and re countersink the steering arms and no more breaky.
Wouldn't the Ultimate fix be the mythical six stud knuckle?
 
rusty_tlc said:
Wouldn't the Ultimate fix be the mythical six stud knuckle?


that has been going to be released "next month" for the last 24? ;)


someday, maybe it will be an option....

bk
 
66fj40x2 said:
Are Marlin's the Toyota studs or the upgraded ARP's like the front range studs?



They are the stock fastener......which is fine for stock applications.



:beer:
 
Well I have been thinking alot bout the 6 stud knuckle. It is really a long road to a short answer. The dana 60 king pin style axle uses 4 bolts/ studs also. IMO the dana 60 has more scrub force which means more force on the same 4 studs. At a 1/2 " stud they do well , with the 9/16 they do well. It would follow that the studs on Toyota need to be upsized. I realize it causes the arm to be redrilled and countersunk but thats is cheap.
 
Red locktite isn't that tough to remove.
Hit whatever you're taking apart with a propane torch for a couple of seconds, it doesn't take long, and it will come right apart.
 
Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,
 
how tight are you torquing them to?

I crank the living hell out of them..
 
Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,



I would suspect that the threads in the knuckle housing are distorted....
 
Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,

as you well know I had the same problem till I put in the APR studs .. BUt I havent wheeled with the hydro yet so time will tell if that gets me back to re torqin ..I still have it in the truck and do torq em every run now but none loose since :grinpimp:
 
ARP Torq numbers

"Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued."
 
I have found that the toyota studs with the torx heads on them aren't as strong as the old style factory ones . I've broken both , now I'm using ARP's and they seem to be holding up .
 
ARP Torq numbers

"Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued."

Thx. I'll run'em down and see what happens.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom