Knuckle Service DIY (1 Viewer)

[Riad]

One of these days when the rain stops, I'm gonna hack into that front end and replace the stuff with the stuff that comes with the kit. I would like to hear the advice of the ones who did it themselves. I am getting the kit with the wheel bearings.

Thanks

 

[tarbe]

Have your FSM, Jim Reiss' DVD, your torque wrench, seal puller, snap ring pliars, pre-load gauge (fish scale), brass drifts and brass hammer, 54mm hub socket, 6 large cans of brake cleaner, 6-8 rolls of paper towels, moly fortified grease for birfs, non-moly for bearings and of course your parts - all in hand.

Then enjoy the trip and don't rush trying to set a new record...you'll forget something!

 

[TX_TLC]

I didn't have the DVD...but everything else is a must. Well I did only use less than one roll of paper towels, thanks to my new parts washers. It isn't a must but it was a very much "nice to have".

Even taking my time I did both sides in one day. Good luck...patience is a must...especially on those races.

 

[cruiserman]

One roll of towels should be sufficient. Use newspaper for cleaning out the knuckle cavity to save on the expensive towels. Pack the new bearings with a bearing packer (available at Sears & get 2 to keep the greases separate), or put the grease and bearings in a ziplock bag and pack them by hand.

Latex gloves are very handy. Costco sells 2-packs for a reasonable price. T style seal puller is helpful (Sears again). If you feel shop towels are essential, Costco sells a 12 pack.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

Have your FSM, Jim Reiss' DVD, your torque wrench, seal puller, snap ring pliars, pre-load gauge (fish scale), brass drifts and brass hammer, 54mm hub socket, 6 large cans of brake cleaner, 6-8 rolls of paper towels, moly fortified grease for birfs, non-moly for bearings and of course your parts - all in hand.

Then enjoy the trip and don't rush trying to set a new record...you'll forget something!

Whats the Jim Reiss DVD ??

 

[brent]

Slee has the 54mm socket I think, I bought mine from Sears not knowing and was probably twice the price for something you are going to use 10x in your life??????? Also got some diapers for clean-up and worked very well, first time using them but could be a reason to start the family, probably also want some sort of cleaning agent, to clean all your parts, I normally use what every I have on hand, think it was diesel and mineral spirits last time................also might want to have some paint to touch up the knuckles etc. or else you are just cleaning them up to rust which is worse then being covered in grease IMO

 

[rgsiii]

Whats the Jim Reiss DVD ??

Here is a link to the thread. I bought it and it seems well done. I have not finished it yet.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=42722

 

[Riad]

Yeah got the FSM and studying it for couple months now. Did you guys have to use the SST 09606-60020 tool to take out both the knuckle arms and bearings? Is there any other tools that can be used? Or, do you really have to take out the knuckle completely off the axle to replace the oil seal set? Yeah a video would be great. But I think I can do it using the FSM. Not to mention I have been reading on the tech forum links on this for quite a while now and cross referencing them with the FSM. If I think I will get absolutely stuck some where, the maybe I will PM Jim Reiss (elmariachi) for the DVD, thank you very much for posting the link. I am definitely getting both knuckle service tools.

Thanks guys..

 

[Rookie2]

Yeah got the FSM and studying it for couple months now. Did you guys have to use the SST 09606-60020 tool to take out both the knuckle arms and bearings? Is there any other tools that can be used? Or, do you really have to take out the knuckle completely off the axle to replace the oil seal set?

You'll need to take the knuckle housing off in order to repack or replace the trunion bearings and racings. You don't have to have an SST to remove the trunion bearing racings. Most use a brass drift to bang out the races, I had to use steel because they were stuck in there pretty good, and it was making bits out of my brass drift. It's not necessary to remove the knuckle housing in order to remove/replace the inner axle seal. But I think most would recommend replacing the trunion bearings since you're already in that far, so in that case you would remove the knuckle housing.


Rookie2

 

[elmariachi]

It's not necessary to remove the knuckle housing in order to remove/replace the inner axle seal. But I think most would recommend replacing the trunion bearings since you're already in that far, so in that case you would remove the knuckle housing.

The other main reason to go ahead and remove the knuckle is to change out the large felt wiper/oil seal assembly on the back of the knuckle, which typically is leaking/seeping after 75-100K miles. Remember that those knuckle (trunion) bearings carry all the load and should be inspected and serviced. Its really not that much more work to do it, just messy.

Jim

 

[Riad]

Thanks every one, so I do have to remove the knuckle. And if I am not mistaken those bearing that come with the service kit are the knuckle (trunion) bearings. FSM calls for these outer bearings on the hub. Did you guys replace them as well?

Thanks

 

[elmariachi]

Thanks every one, so I do have to remove the knuckle. And if I am not mistaken those bearing that come with the service kit are the knuckle (trunion) bearings. FSM calls for these outer bearings on the hub. Did you guys replace them as well?
Thanks

Four bearings per side, two small trunion/knuckle bearings and two larger wheel hub bearings, inner and outer. Plus a few seals and gaskets.

 

[TX_TLC]

Pack the new bearings with a bearing packer (available at Sears & get 2 to keep the greases separate), or put the grease and bearings in a ziplock bag and pack them by hand.

What are you calling a bearing packer? The little gizmo that packs the wheel bearings for you? If so why would you need two? You only use one type of grease for all the bearings.

Or did you mean bearing packer as a grease gun? I prefer packing wheel bearings by hand so I got the tubs (not tubes) of wheel bearing grease and went that route.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Does anyone know the link to the home made knuckle centering toll SST?

I know its not needed as you would just put the original shims back in the same place, but I was curious to see the tool.

Rob

 

[cruiserman]

Bearing packer as in the 2 plastic plate gizmo with the grease zerk on top. I use 2 due to moly grease (knuckle bearing) and standard grease (wheel bearing).

 

[lahar50]

why do you 2 different greases

 

[tarbe]

why do you 2 different greases

The birfs require a lithium-based grease that is fortified with moly (MOS2).

Bearings generally do not like moly....it is a slippery solid and can actually cause a bearing to slide instead of roll. Evidently the balls in the birf are ok with this...maybe because of the other motions you get in the birf with the turning and all...

Best reason? Mr. Toyota says so....and he usually knows what he is talking about!

 

[TX_TLC]

Bearing packer as in the 2 plastic plate gizmo with the grease zerk on top. I use 2 due to moly grease (knuckle bearing) and standard grease (wheel bearing).

Now I am just curious...I packed both set of bearings with "standard" (mobile 1) wheel bearing grease. I filled the knuckle with moly...

Should the trunion bearings be packed with moly?


Don't want to confuse anyone...I am confused and I have done the job before.

 

[elmariachi]

Now I am just curious...I packed both set of bearings with "standard" (mobile 1) wheel bearing grease. I filled the knuckle with moly...
Should the trunion bearings be packed with moly?
Don't want to confuse anyone...I am confused and I have done the job before.

The good book says of the steering knuckle bearings: "Pack bearings with lithium base wheel bearing grease NLGI No. 2."