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Knocking...oops

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by atoyot, Feb 8, 2004.

  1. atoyot

    atoyot

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    Last night I adjusted the valves on my 73' "F". I timed the engine by ear (first mistake). I was dri ving a long today and started to get a bad knocking on my way to the trail head. No matter which way I adjusted the distributer the knocking persisted. I re cheched the valves and they where good. I ended up towing it home in fear of blowing a rod. Did I really mess it up? What do you think the knocking is? What should I look for if I take the engine apart?
     
  2. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

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    Get it timed and see how she runs. If you can get it to run right, I wouldn't take anything apart.

    I am assuming it was running OK (No Knocking) before you made the adjustments> Maybe what you were trying to fix was something else.
     
  3. talkinggoat

    talkinggoat

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    recheck those valves with a gauge. if they are in, and the knocking continues, take a hose and place it on each rocker arm pushrod everything you can think of until you find where the noise is coming form. i think that you may just have a valve that isn't opening. on the other hand, you may have put a valve into one of the pistons, or, on the third hand, the problem may be totally unrelated.
     
  4. toddslater

    toddslater

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    What is your oil pressure ? Does it sound like a light knock coming form the top of the motor or does it sound like like a 5lb. sledge hittiing your your block down low ? Could be related or not...just a couple of the basic ?s.
     
  5. dd113

    dd113

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    Re check the valves and set the timing back to stock specs. I cant see how anything you do to the top end could cause a rod to knock. It might be that you could not hear the knock due to the loud valces
     
  6. talkinggoat

    talkinggoat

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    after checking the valves, check your spark plugs. you would have had to seriously preignite a cylinder to throw a rod. if the plugs are white and blistered, that may be a possibility, but i don't think you threw a rod. these engines are VERRY tough. i think the problem lies in those valves. if your exhaust valve is not opening, but your intake is, it will cause a similar knock and the cylinder will get extremely hot. in any case, you need to reset your timing with a light, reset your valves with a feeler gauge, and check your compression. a cylinder with a thrown rod should not hold high compression. if you eliminate all the possibilities, what ever remains, no matter how illogical, must be the answer.
     
  7. atoyot

    atoyot

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    The manual says to adjust the valves first at the timing mark. Turn the shaft 360 degrees then adjust the rest. The tech section say's to adjus the valves not at the timing mark but at the line before the timing mark. I don't see line? Which method do I use?
     
  8. Jesse

    Jesse

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    Easy way to check for rod knock is to pull one spark plug wire at a time(dont get shocked). If you do have a bad/loose rod than the noise will get quieter when you remove that perticular wire.
    Jesse
     
  9. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    valves are set at the line NOT the BB which is 7deg. the line is to the left of the BB. The BB is used to set the timing.

    Line=adjust valves
    BB=timing mark

    If you did it wrong and it sounds like you did......redo them.

    [quote author=atoyot link=board=1;threadid=11195;start=msg102404#msg102404 date=1076390354]
    The manual says to adjust the valves first at the timing mark. Turn the shaft 360 degrees then adjust the rest. The tech section say's to adjus the valves not at the timing mark but at the line before the timing mark. I don't see line? Which method do I use?
    [/quote]
     
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