- Thread starter
- #41
The floor jack was very unstable and uneven so I made a little table for the motor to sit on so it would be flat under the frame.
Builds Kids Rock Crawler - Project Peanut (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter AggiePE
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That body is awesome!
- Thread starter
- #43
I got the motor mounts tacked in and the transfer cas slid under and in the original place I had planned it to go. I’ve run into a few snags....
1. The carbuerator is about 1” from the firewall when installed on the motor....
2. If he transfer cas is to go in the center of the frame where I originally planned it, the driveshaft between the 2 with only be 10” long. This is an issue because the shorted it can be is 12-1/2” long.
1. The carbuerator is about 1” from the firewall when installed on the motor....
2. If he transfer cas is to go in the center of the frame where I originally planned it, the driveshaft between the 2 with only be 10” long. This is an issue because the shorted it can be is 12-1/2” long.
- Thread starter
- #44
More. And something I should have noted before this. The body is not square, and thus have proved to make things difficult when trying to line up body lines with frame and with engine to get it all square....
- Thread starter
- #45
Since I got the motor in position I have started fabricating the transfer case mounts. I had some old spring hangers from ruff stuff laying around from a previous project that should work for these.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #46
I got the drives side transfer case mount completed. I’ll attach it to the frame with tabs. The pssenger side mount was tacked into place as well. After the brackets were tacked I cut down the driveshaft to make it the correct length - 12-1/4” flange to flange.
- Thread starter
- #47
So thoughts from the crowd requested. In a previous post I put that there was a clearance issue with the carburetor being very close to the firewall. I don’t really want to cut into the firewall or take up the space under the dash where the steering box will go. I did some digging and came up with a 1-1/4” copper elbow that is 1.5” OD on the upsets on each end. This is the same OD as the carb so the existing clamp will work on the engine side. Anyone see any concerns or issues with turning the carb 90 deg?
The only concern I have would center around support for the carb, and I'm sure you have a plan for that. Vibrations from vehicular travel would require some sort of support for the carb since it is not directly coupled to the carb, and at 90* to it's normal location.
Don
Ooopps, meant to say "not directly coupled to the motor".
Don
Ooopps, meant to say "not directly coupled to the motor".
Last edited:
I second the support but I don't see any other issues.
- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks for the feedback guys. I’ll have to come up with a clever way to use the bolts that are on the back of the jug that are no longer being used.
- Thread starter
- #51
It’s been a while, but I got the transfer case mounts fully welded in and the motor mounts welded completely. Installed the driveshaft and tacked it together (photo was before I tacked it. Had a friend buy a new Kawasaki mule and he didn’t need after he lifted it and hanged the tires. I’ll re-paint the wheels but I got the tires mounted today. 28x10x15 moto mtc on the factory samurai wheels.
Any updates on this?
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
what an awesome project! I've thought about this for a few years for my son and daughter!
- Thread starter
- #54
Update: Been very slow the past few months, we had a baby girl about 4 months ago and this project got pushed aside for more important things! Hopefully I can start back making progress on it.
Update since last post:
Found an orbital steering valve at the local scrap yard from a good looking Hitachi forklift with a blown motor for $8 - its an 80cc/rev.
Purchased an electric power steering pump from an 05' Volvo S40 for $45 at the local pick-n-pull - still working on what ram to use.
Mounted the oil cooler and made the ends to hook up adapters and 6AN fittings. - see photos
Hooked up all electrical and have started mounting the ATV electronics to the body in various places.
Update since last post:
Found an orbital steering valve at the local scrap yard from a good looking Hitachi forklift with a blown motor for $8 - its an 80cc/rev.
Purchased an electric power steering pump from an 05' Volvo S40 for $45 at the local pick-n-pull - still working on what ram to use.
Mounted the oil cooler and made the ends to hook up adapters and 6AN fittings. - see photos
Hooked up all electrical and have started mounting the ATV electronics to the body in various places.
- Thread starter
- #55
Got the M16 x 1.5 to 6AN adapter for the electric power steering pump in. Now to build a bracket to mount it under the hood!
This is a cool project. Any updates?
- Thread starter
- #58
No major updates to report. We have been in the process of moving and remodeling a house so progress has been slow to none. I have thought about the cooling air to the engine and considered mounting a 10”? fan under the hood and making some sort of hood scoop to allow the air to be sucked through the hood. I plan to remove the front inner fender skirts so this should help air flow as well.
subscribed! Sweet project!
- Thread starter
- #60
Been a long while since the last update. We moved houses and I finally got a nice work space for all my stuff! My wife bought me a tubing notcher for Christmas and I built a holder for that as well as my tubing bender for my work table.
Last edited:
