Hi all, I bought a key on EBAY and had it key cut, then programmed using techstream (I used techstream to program the immoblilizer, then did the described manual hokey pokey sequence to program the fob remote). Key starts the car and I was able to program the fob for locking/unlocking, but the key will not manually unlock any door. WTF? The key appears to be cut correctly and the key will start the car. Am I missing something?
Key programming (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ayc3
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Mauser
Supporting Vendor
Was the new key cut using an old worn key as a pattern. Since these trucks have a remote to lock and unlock them the door locks don't get used and don't wear like the ignition.
My thought is that the key has worn with the ignition so it will work there, but since the door locks aren't worn the key won't work. May be best to have a key cut from the vin or by code. There are outfits on ebay that can get the key code from a picture of your key.
Got my key remote to let the truck start. but can't lock or unlock with remote. how can I get it programmed? locksmith was unable to do when they programmed the remote.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
was reading it but to long. any short cuts to how to do it?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I linked to the exact post you should try and follow.
Thanks, this worked! I had to first follow the FAQ instructions to 1. delete all keys except the master, then 2. program a new master.
I tried programing the new master without deleting the old keys in the ECU and that didn't work. Once I deleted the old keys, programing the new master accd. to the FAQ worked on the first try. Once I did that, this process worked to program the transponder to lock/unlock the doors. It took me a few tries to get the sequence right, but it worked! Oh, my new master was purchased through RemotesRemotes.com - Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Free Programming Instructions for $25. A local locksmith cut the key for $25. So, $50 in total! Glad it worked out.
Just did it and worked. Thanks. Now I can remote entry. no more key in slot.
Hey all, want to pull the trigger FINALLY on getting a FOB programmed to my 2000 LC. I've read the instructions here: Key Programming and determined that my non-fob key is the "master key".
I never got the car with a fob key and have no idea about how many keys might be programmed to it from the PO's. Am I understanding correctly that I need to first purchase a $25 fob from somewhere like Amazon, part number: 89070-60090, have it cut by a keysmith and follow the attached instructions for programming ie; door, locks, ignition switch dance?
Is there any further programming required beyond the steps above or is the dealership required to program something as well?
I never got the car with a fob key and have no idea about how many keys might be programmed to it from the PO's. Am I understanding correctly that I need to first purchase a $25 fob from somewhere like Amazon, part number: 89070-60090, have it cut by a keysmith and follow the attached instructions for programming ie; door, locks, ignition switch dance?
Is there any further programming required beyond the steps above or is the dealership required to program something as well?
I got one of the eBay remote keys and the remote programming worked fine, but following TLC’s instructions for transponder programming is not working. I got the 4C chip and a ‘98 LC. Not sure where I’m going wrong with this. I ensured I had the master key, and followed the times listed in the steps. Anyone else have isauea with just the immobilizer programming like I’m having?
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Mauser
Supporting Vendor
Could be that you don't have a master key or all of your key slots are filled. Do you happen to have access to Techstream?
I don’t have a techstream, and all my laptops are linux so I haven’t found an adapter yet to work. As soon as I insert my original key, my immobilizer light goes out and stays out. Doesn’t that mean I have the master?
However, the key deletion sequence doesn’t work for me either, so I’m wondering if the master key verification by looking at the immob light is accurate for a 1998.
The only thing that’s worked so far is the fob programming.
Have you tried erasing the keys like mentioned above?
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
If the light goes out when you insert the key you do have a master. I have a 1998 LX. I have tried the key erasing dance over and over without any luck. The only way I have found to delete keys on a 98 is using Techstream.
Its strange because the color of my key that the system is saying is master is gray. I did read in mitchell one that any key can be programmed as a master. I’m not sure how to figure that out, but I have an autel maxi, so I’m going to the shop this weekend to see if I can use that to program a key. If not, I guess I’ll look at borrowing a windows machine and using techstream. This whole thing’s really blowing my mind- TLC should be right about the procedures; it makes me feel like I’m doing something wrong, even though I’m probably not.
Bought two new keys off Amazon for $50 and got them cut for free at Home Depot.
Programmed both for my 2000 Land Cruiser in less than 10min...gotta love the older models with manual programming
Programmed both for my 2000 Land Cruiser in less than 10min...gotta love the older models with manual programming
Yeah, surprised how trouble free, easy and cheap it was to get working key fobs. Don’t know why I waited over a year lmao.
I bought a new key from 1010keys on eBay. Came with programming device. Got the key to start up the engine on the first try. I’ve run into an issue with the remote programming. I’ve been able to get the remote buttons on the new key to program correctly but now my original key remote buttons don’t work. I’ve tried everything to get it to reprogram and keep getting two lock cycles indicating failure. Can anyone explain what’s going on. Both keys I have will start the engine and unlock/lock the doors manually. I just can’t get the remote on the original key to program.
