Key Door Lock

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Joined
Jul 2, 2008
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74
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156
Location
Charlotte, NC
just got a new LC and the only key that I got will only unlock/lock the drivers door.. It will not even turn the lock on the passenger door or the rear lift gate. Any ideas why?
 
Just guessing here but the other doors have probably only felt the love of a key maybe a dozen times in 20 years, your gonna have to play with them a bit first and may even need a shot of lube to get things going.
 
Possibly a worn out key. My keys stopped working well until I had one cut from the VIN.
 
just got a new LC and the only key that I got will only unlock/lock the drivers door.. It will not even turn the lock on the passenger door or the rear lift gate. Any ideas why?

Most likely it's two things. Your key is probably completely worn out and all smoothed out. Get a new one from a dealership with your VIN number. Then the other two locks probably need lubed. You'll get several hundred opinions on what to lube it with, but after a lot of different tries and making the locks work worse (graphite powder, graphite liquid lube, etc...), I finally talked to a locksmith and he said use WD40. They work great with a brand new key and a liberal dosage of WD40.
 
I would use a graphite based lock lubricant. WD40 works really well, but it also has a tendency to collect dust/dirt and that can help to further damage the lock. A locksmith friend told me it makes a big difference.

Its also possible that the driver door lock and column lock have been changed and no longer match the other locks. If you can't get the key to work in the other doors, call a locksmith ans ask if they can re-key the door locks to match.
 
The key works in all doors, but the graphite made it worse. The powder had almost no effect. The liquid carrier graphite that says 'lock lube' on it, gummed it up so bad they wouldn't work at all on cold mornings. Fine on a warm day. Like I said, a hundred different opinions on that topic!
 
Mine was stolen at one point in its life and the keys I got only worked in driver door and ignition. Glovebox, pass door, hatch were all no-go. I took the pass lock cylinder out of the handle and filed it down so this mystery key works there now too. Had some nice Toyota keys cut at a locksmith from blanks I purchased based on the crap hardware store key I got from PO.

Maybe yours are mismatched too?
 
You have the Valet key. It is intended to only operate the driver door and ignition. A VIN cut key will solve the problem, it did for me.
How much is a VIN cut key?
 
You have the Valet key. It is intended to only operate the driver door and ignition. A VIN cut key will solve the problem, it did for me.

Not quite correct.

A valet key operates the ignition and front door locks but not the glovebox lock (if equipped) or trunk lock.
 
I paid $8.95 ea. for the blanks. The Toyota dealer needed the registration for proof of ownership and the VIN. There was no charge for cutting the key. The parts guy said there was a possibility of not being able to cross my VIN with the cutting code for a 1993 FZJ80. I lucked out and they were able to cut new keys that work in all the locks.
 
Hmm, I have the same problem with my LX. Key Only Works in the ignition and drivers door. Haven't really thought about it until now but now I wanna get it fixed.
 
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Vehicles with keyless entry are predisposed to have door lock cylinder function issues because the keys are rarely, if ever, used to lock and unlock the doors.
 

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