Got mine installed. It seems to raise the right front side a little. I have not driven the car yet to see it it would level out but front right side is about 0.6" low. I noticed with the bolts fully torqued, there are some gaps in the spacer. Let me know if you guys are seeing the same.
KDSS Spacer from Treaty Oaks
- Thread starter Turbohardtop
- Start date
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I had a couple reports of this. I’ve got a hold back model, my prototypes, and some links at a 3rd party checking everything as we speak.
aesthetically, I don’t like it. I’m working with manufacturing to get it corrected. Shoot me a dm with your order # if you don’t mind and I’ll make sure you’re taken care of.
aesthetically, I don’t like it. I’m working with manufacturing to get it corrected. Shoot me a dm with your order # if you don’t mind and I’ll make sure you’re taken care of.
How would you rate the difficulty of installation? Did you put your GX on jack stands or can this be done wheels on the ground? I was planning on installing this weekend, but I’m waiting for Kyle to respond with the go ahead. PM’d him immediately after seeing this post.
- Thread starter
- #4
I installed it on the ground. The front one was a little tricky since I could not swing the solid mount at the angle i needed with the spacer. I had a jack under the sway bar when removing the bolts. The rear was easier since the piston and the solid mount was moveable. Overall, it was about 1 hr job. I took the car out and now somehow the car is leaning more on the passenger side.
Crack the shutter valves 2-2,5 turns and rock it. Will settle out and the shut them
- Thread starter
- #6
I will open the valve and see if they would settle a little better before closing it.
Whats the results or purpose of these? Thanks for the info, just curious.
Lifted from the Treaty Oak Offroad website.
If you’re lifted, and have wheeled, you have undoubtedly encountered some kdss lean. In the 4 years of working with my 2005 GX470 sport with kdss, I have run into this issue multiple times and only Treaty Oak Offroad has the fix.
WHY DOES THIS HAPPEN?!
KDSS is a complete system front and rear, that works in tandem. The driver side has an articulating cylinder and the passenger side has a rigid link, connected to the LCA (or axle in rear) via a large sway bar. They work together via hydraulic lines and accumulators that open and close to allow fluid to flow, or not flow, depending on speed. On a stock vehicle this allows for extended wheel travel vs a standard sway bar setup AND sports car type handling at speed.
What we developed, will equalize the pressure in the system via a set of spacers (1 in front, 2 in rear) that are utilized within the KDSS system itself and return the angle of the sway bar back to OEM angles after a lift has been installed. In turn, this will dramatically reduce or eliminate your lean.
These are 6061 aluminum, type III hard coat anodized in black, and supplied with new hardware..
*while we have had fantastic results reducing and eliminating lean, due to the nature of the KDSS system it is still possible to experience some lean. A proper kdss balance and the use of our spacers are the best option for maximizing wheel travel, while minimizing lean.
About to order this. I think shutter valves is a must to open and close. Does the vehicle need to be lifted with a car lift to open the shutter valves and close them when vehicle is lowered on the ground. I only ask because of what IronMan recommends you do when working on suspension.
Reason I want this is because my rear panhard bar touches the sway at full extension. Also I want the Swaybar back at the OEM position for better on road handling.
Reason I want this is because my rear panhard bar touches the sway at full extension. Also I want the Swaybar back at the OEM position for better on road handling.
Hey @RussianGx I still haven't gotten around to doing mine. Here are the full instructions from Kyle Fogle to give you an idea of what it entails.
1) start with the vehicle on level ground
2) remove front skid plate
3) loosen kdss shutter valves 2 turns
FRONT:
3) place a floor jack under the sway bar, just to the driver side of the link. Jack up and put a little pressure on the sway bar
4) carefully loosen and remove bolts on passenger side fixed link
5) lower jack slowly, lower until there is room for the spacer to be installed on the link side
6) jack the sway bar back up to get the sway bar/bushing to sit in the spacer
7) install the collar on the bottom of the say bar, and start both bolts by hand
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
8) tighten bolts (alternate back and forth) and torque to 30 lbf
9) remove floor jack
REAR:
10) move the floor jack to rear sway bar just to the left of the fixed link
11) jack up and put pressure on sway bar, loosen bolts and remove
12) lower sway bar and install passenger side spacer
13) jack sway bar back up, install collar and alternate tightening new bolts to 52 lbf
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
14) move to driver side, jack up sway bar just to the right of the cylinder, remove bolts
15) lower jack/sway bar and install spacer between link and sway bar
16) jack up and position sway bar inside spacer
17) install collar and alternate tightening new bolts to 52 lbf
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
18) rock vehicle side to side and allow to settle
19) tighten shutter valves
20) go wheeling!
1) start with the vehicle on level ground
2) remove front skid plate
3) loosen kdss shutter valves 2 turns
FRONT:
3) place a floor jack under the sway bar, just to the driver side of the link. Jack up and put a little pressure on the sway bar
4) carefully loosen and remove bolts on passenger side fixed link
5) lower jack slowly, lower until there is room for the spacer to be installed on the link side
6) jack the sway bar back up to get the sway bar/bushing to sit in the spacer
7) install the collar on the bottom of the say bar, and start both bolts by hand
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
8) tighten bolts (alternate back and forth) and torque to 30 lbf
9) remove floor jack
REAR:
10) move the floor jack to rear sway bar just to the left of the fixed link
11) jack up and put pressure on sway bar, loosen bolts and remove
12) lower sway bar and install passenger side spacer
13) jack sway bar back up, install collar and alternate tightening new bolts to 52 lbf
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
14) move to driver side, jack up sway bar just to the right of the cylinder, remove bolts
15) lower jack/sway bar and install spacer between link and sway bar
16) jack up and position sway bar inside spacer
17) install collar and alternate tightening new bolts to 52 lbf
*do not use an impact on these, install with a socket.*
18) rock vehicle side to side and allow to settle
19) tighten shutter valves
20) go wheeling!
interesting here is IronMan4x4 instructions (see attached PDF) for KDSS reset
That route works too, there are a handful of methods. Some park on blocks of wood, etc.
You'll need to cut your skid plate if you're still using the OEM one, just a heads up.
so for the front spacer to fit you will for sure need to cut OEM skid ?
- Thread starter
- #15
I am still on factory plate and it does touch. I do need to get aftermarket ones soon.
This is cool to see, I'm going to have to go back to resd this whole thread. Would this be the appropriate fix for IM foam cell pro (affords 2.5-3" lift, adjustable front coilovers)? I suspect that the added ride height would reduce the kdss arms' travel. And if this lowers things back into stock position then you would maintain/retain kdss for articulation, correct?..
Interesting that the front spacer and rear spacer are different lengths, but that probably has to do with different suspension geometry and articulation...
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Interesting.
does this come with bolts
Yes
