Kansas - Magadan (3 Viewers)

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I started to collect a list of the tools and spares needed . Here is the list:


Spare (what shall be taken):

- Radiator/Fuel tank repair putty
- Head sealant compound
- Double sided tape
- Line clamp
- Sockets (will have mainly 1/2 both deep and shallow, also 3/8 only shallow)
10mm
12mm
13mm
14mm
17mm
19mm
22mm
24mm
32mm
54mm
- 5/8 spark plug
- wobbles


Extensions:

3/8 assortment
½ assortment
10 mm Allen wrench for drain plugs
Set of mm Allen
Fuses assortment - I will have to take a look what fuses do I have on my 80
Needle nose pliers
Linesman pliers
Wire brush
Assortment of screwdrivers long and short
Metric ratcheting box wrenches are handy
Led headlight or handheld with spare batteries
Wire...12,16 comes in hand
Pliers to strip wire
Multimeter
Zip ties
Grease gun
BFH
Rubber Mallet
RTV high temp silicone
brass drifts
Snap ring pliers
magnetic tool
brass hammer
Big and small vice grips
Blue towels
Duct tape
Electrical tape
3m blue tape...handy if you need to label lots
Electrical cleaner
Wd40
C-clamp for compressing brake pistons
Breaker bars
Punches are handy
Ratchet straps



Assortment of metric bolts and lock nuts in grade 8+


Spares

Fusible links
Oil/filter/wrench
Spark plugs
Belts
ATF
Brake fluid
FSM
5/8 heater hose
½ heater hose
3/8 heater hose
1/8 vauum hose

Fuses:
15A EFI fuse
7.5A Ignition
15A ECU fuse

Critical Relays

EFI main relay
Starter cut relay
Fuel pump relay

Tire related:
rubber cement
36 strings / plugs
tire reamer
plug applicator
valve cores
valve repair tool
spare valve cores
spare valves
valve puller tool


Nuts and bolts:
M6 x 1.0
M8 x 1.25
M10 x 1.25
M12 x 1.25
M14 x 1.5
 
Ok this list looks good in general, just maybe a few remarks:

- grease gun: I left it at home, since you can do this at any workshop on the way, it is just planned maintenance (of course you can bring a pack of grease for repairs, but the grease gun is huge)

- bring wheel bolts? maybe not so necessary for an 80, but with our 40 series we broke some. This was on the really bad roads in India, where some roads consist of potholes only. (at some point I just started to drive next to the road)
If you decide to bring wheel bolts, then of course bring a set of 6 so that you could fix it on the road side even if a wheel has completely broken of.

Other things: did you already replace simple things just out of precaution like thermostat?

I also noticed that me and other travellers had issues with the lower clutch cilinder, the small one on the gearbox. If you have one with you (it is really small) you can repair it on the road as it is quite easy to fix (clutch fluid=brake fluid as you probably know)
Or just already replace it at home.

Perhaps some spare oil seals for the axles?

A cross joint for the driveshaft?

How much spare wheels will you carry? Just one should be enough since you're bringing al the tire repair stuff.

Oh, and a fuel filter should be on the list, because you might see some bad fuel.
Perhaps also an air filter that you could replace halfway through your trip?
 
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Ok this list looks good in general, just maybe a few remarks:

- grease gun: I left it at home, since you can do this at any workshop on the way, it is just planned maintenance (of course you can bring a pack of grease for repairs, but the grease gun is huge)

- bring wheel bolts? maybe not so necessary for an 80, but with our 40 series we broke some. This was on the really bad roads in India, where some roads consist of potholes only. (at some point I just started to drive next to the road)
If you decide to bring wheel bolts, then of course bring a set of 6 so that you could fix it on the road side even if a wheel has completely broken of.

Other things: did you already replace simple things just out of precaution like thermostat?

I also noticed that me and other travellers had issues with the lower clutch cilinder, the small one on the gearbox. If you have one with you (it is really small) you can repair it on the road as it is quite easy to fix (clutch fluid=brake fluid as you probably know)
Or just already replace it at home.

Perhaps some spare oil seals for the axles?

A cross joint for the driveshaft?

How much spare wheels will you carry? Just one should be enough since you're bringing al the tire repair stuff.

Oh, and a fuel filter should be on the list, because you might see some bad fuel.
Perhaps also an air filter that you could replace halfway through your trip?
- grease gun : I am still not decided. Probably I will leave it at home also but would like to take the grease with me. Not good idea of mixing the grease on knuckles I would say.

- wheel bolts : That's one item I forgot. Not sure but I think that you meant studs which can brake. Good to mention that I don't over tighten the lug nuts.

- other things : I did extensive maintenance on the car. Changed head gasket and all cooling system is fresh new.

- seals for axle : Nobody mentions that but I think that it is good idea. It is not that heavy and not that expensive to carry seals with me. Not sure if I should carry wheel bearings.

- cross join : They will be fresh new so not sure if I would like to bring some spare with me.

- spare wheel : Will be bringing just one

Jorge
 
One more thing, you could also bring such a 1 litre can/bottle of cooling liquid that you need to mix. So you can still create cooling liquid by just mixing it with your water supply.

I would also carry something like a gallon or 2x2 litre packs (square takes less space) of packaged drinking water for emergencies. So if you ever get stuck and you also cant trust the watertank (or it's empty) you can rely on that drinking water.

- grease gun : I am still not decided. Probably I will leave it at home also but would like to take the grease with me. Not good idea of mixing the grease on knuckles I would say.

What do you mean by mixing? If you need it for the front cv joints, then you can just put it on there right?
If you just bring a small pack, it just be enough for the road side repairs.

I was annoyed by the size of the grease gun. Since we travelled through cheap countries it was a good choice to leave it at home. I got all 14 grease points (on the 40 series) greased for a dollar or sometimes 2 dollar :D

- wheel bolts : That's one item I forgot. Not sure but I think that you meant studs which can brake. Good to mention that I don't over tighten the lug nuts.

Yeah I meant the wheel studs, it's not my native language :p
We ruined some by overtightening, and afterwards on the really bad roads. But they are quite easy to replace, at least on a 40. (you will be carrying a hammer right? to knock them out)

- cross join : They will be fresh new so not sure if I would like to bring some spare with me.

Sounds good. Just remember if there is something wrong with the driveshaft, you can simply remove it and continu in front wheel drive (if rear driveshaft is the problem) and enable 4x4 of course. I used this trick when I lost some bolts on the driveshaft, I made the old Landcruiser into a front wheel drive car :p and drove to the next village.

You have permanent 4wd right on the 80? Then it means you have to lock central and you can remove any of the two driveshaft. Same goes for if one of your CV joints isn't doing anything anymore (damaged/worn) and all the power goes to that useless driveshaft.
 
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Oh and your lower clutch cilinder?

I guess you have an automatic, so it does not apply?
Yes I have automagic so it doesn't apply. By mixing - the knuckles should be greased , if you mix the grease I would suspect that the result would not be very good.
 
Another update:

Thanks to @half k cruiser to make amazing water tank mount and shield. We worked many hours on that and it wasn't easy. Here are some pictures.

The mount itself:
Water tank with welded inlet:
Water pumps in the box:
All together with the shield:
 
Idea for water system is not mine, I got it from here:
On Board Hot Water Shower System - Page 3 - Expedition Portal

Still need to mount the helton somewhere, I tried to put it on the washer relocation bracket but the helton is too high and can't go lower due to the shock mount. I will have another welding session with @half k cruiser so I hope we can tackle this one also. Received the ARB compressor and I am little surprised by the wiring harness - so many wires just for the compressor.


Jorge
 
...Received the ARB compressor and I am little surprised by the wiring harness - so many wires just for the compressor.

It's also designed to work for the air lockers so you've got twice as many (or more) wires as needed for compressor function only. Easy to prune in a clean way.
 
The Helton plugs into your factory heater lines x2, then runs two lines of its own primary/return to your shower system.

Ok, so it is directly heated using engine heat, so you have to have to engine running? It has some advantages as you don't have to save a large amount of heated water.

I will be using a stainless steel boiler (20 litres) which has an internal heat exchanger to run the coolant water through while driving. It also takes of the coolant using T connectors on the lines to the heater, in my case the rear interior heater)
When done with driving you have 20 liters of very hot water which is also mixed with a thermostatic mix valve with the cold (normal) water tank. It is an Isotemp system (now Webasto).
It is maybe more convenient, but it takes up much more space and weight then the Helton system.
 
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Mounted the water tank. Now only thing missing is the helton heater and inlet / outlet.

Some pictures:
 
Question about the ARB compressor. It is written that the isolation switch RED-YEL should go to ignition powered wire and BLU-WHT to dash illumination. What is the common source of ignition power on 80 ? I have read people putting it to cig lighter. Not sure about the illumination.

Jorge
 
Got the national luna dual battery monitor mounted. I made mistake to not route the cables correctly so had to mount it on the left side of the panel. Doesn't bother me thou.

 
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The Speski barrier is mounted. It was pain to do that but looks fine. I did very bad job painting it .


I got the Prinsu rack put together , now looking back I would say it would be better to not mount all the bars to make it lighter to lift it to the roof and then put the bars while the rack is mounted.

I didn't succeeded mounting the ARB compressor , there is not too much space left in the engine compartment and I have only couple of options how to proceed:
  1. buy @landtank bracket to relocate the charcoal canister and make some room for compressor
  2. looking for doing a smaller washer bottle mod. Lot of people went with Toyota corolla bottle which seems pretty easy. I could get some more space by using that
  3. mount compressor somewhere else then under the hood. I got rid of the rear heater so there is a space under passenger seat.

To me it seems the option 2 is the best, I already have the washer relocation bracket as I have dual batteries so it should not be a big problem to modify bracket to suit the corolla bottle.

Jorge
 
Water inlet done. Unfortunately I have now hole in Kaymar which will not be used (it was too low). I had to make another entry next to the gas cap:


This is how it looks from inside (will be hidden under the ARB drawers sides) , not nice but I didn't see any other way how to do that. Finally tested the system and it seems working fine. The only issue is with temperature sensor which I don't know how to route it to the water tank. Now it is bent in the entry of the water tank and it is leaking a bit.

Went today to pick n pull to find corolla's washer tank but all were either broken or missing.
 
There is a vent on the water tank which I plugged in. Do you guys suggest the venting and if yes , what is the proper way to do it ?
Also I didn't put the teflon tape on the threads do you guys recommend me to take it all of and put the tape on threads ? I did screw the fittings hand tight.

Jorge
 
Tested the water system today. All was good , decided to vent the water tank and route the temperature sensor thew the vent itself. Still missing is the water outlet and helton bracket.
 
Venting is not necessary for filling (although it is definitely better). However, for usage/draining, it needs to suck in air to.

I'm not sure about the connections you have, but you can just connect a small hose to a very high point so water doesn't come out when your on an angle.
However, overfilling can also lead to water coming out of the vent hole.

On my old landcruiser the vent hole (with small air filter inside) was also done through the body at a high location.
Now I didn't make a new hole for it, I just have hose to a high point, but if water is coming out it will be able to run away through the door opening. Not ideal, but better then inside the car.

If you just use an open hose, you could still run temperature sensor wires through there maybe?
 

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