Just need to share my frustration with new rotor install. (1 Viewer)

[HGB]

Which

I recently replaced the rear rotors on my truck, along with pads. I used Centric rotors. On the first test-drive, the truck had some pretty horrible scratching and grinding noise.

At first I thought it was the parking brake. Applying the parking brake even changed the noise slightly. However, long story short, the noise was coming from the inside of the rotor rubbing on the dust shield. Specifically, it was outside lip of the rotor part where the parking brake shoes touch the rotor. The new rotors were a hair deeper than the rotors I took off.

I fixed it with a couple whacks with a hammer to bend the dust shield away from the rotor by a hair.

Which Centric rotors / Pads did you go with? Did you get them for a 200? I need new rotors and pads and am drawn to centric preferred due to price point (half of OEM) but I’m also leery because of the very same reason (half price) and this being such a heavy truck. I’m shopping Brakes for a 2013 LX.

 

[bloc]

OE rotors are surprisingly cheap from the discount sites. $55 per side for the fronts if I remember correctly. That is basically chump change for toyota quality and the size of these things.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Which


Which Centric rotors / Pads did you go with? Did you get them for a 200? I need new rotors and pads and am drawn to centric preferred due to price point (half of OEM) but I’m also leery because of the very same reason (half price) and this being such a heavy truck. I’m shopping Brakes for a 2013 LX.

Centric 120.44157 Premium rotors for the rears, and 120.44157 for the front. $50 each all around.

Now bear in mind, I had a small problem with these Centric rear rotors rubbing the dust shield. I think at least part of that is because the parking brake drum on this rotor is a tad deeper. But there has also been discussion on this forum about rust developing behind the dust shield, causing the dust shield to bow out a little. I have not specifically checked my truck to confirm whether said rust is present or not, or whether rust was a factor in the rubbing.

For pads, my choice is always Akebono.

 

[RT Cruiser]

Here's what I used:

Rotors and pads, front and rear - Power Stop Z36 Truck and Tow. Front and rear are drilled, slotted, vented. $360 on Amazon with Prime delivery:

Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Pad and Rotor Kits | PowerStop

Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit uses our carbon-fiber ceramic formula for superior braking power. Designed specifically for heavy loads and towing.

www.powerstop.com

Hand brake shoes, all 4 shoes - Advance Auto, $35:

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Toyota wants $65 per shoe! Insane.

Fasteners for the hand brake shoes - Advance Auto, $29:

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

This kit includes ALL the springs, clamps, and adjusters. And yes, they all fit perfectly.

If you ever need anything from Advance, signup for a web account. Most of the time I get better pricing and good discounts online.

I used CRC anti-seize on the caliper bolts, Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant on the metal parts that move, and 3M Silicone paste for the inside of the sliding pin housing.

Since I have properly bed-in the rotors and pads, AND replaced the hand brake shoes and fasteners, AND banged on the backing plate here and there, 98% of the noise has GONE!!!

@John E Davies stepped up to the plate and informed that without new hand brake shoes alongside new rear rotors, the old shoes will rub against the rotors. This happened to me.

 

[CruiserFan88]

@RT Cruiser - I'm going to have to do this within the next 6 months and was concerned about the parking brake shoes and bed-in procedure for both the brakes and parking brake. Overall, was the job about the same difficulty as any other truck and how happy are you with the end results thus far?

 

[RT Cruiser]

Front and rear rotors/pads were easy. The hand brake took longer than expected due to the top spring that holds both shoes together. Unless you can wiggle it like I did away from the linkage so there is no pressure on the spring, I suggest getting a spring removal tool. The other fasteners on the shoes not difficult but requires patience. You need to use a small socket (or similar) to help you remove the spring clamp, or get a special tool.

The bed-in procedure is easy. Follow the steps per the manufacturer but find a road with no traffic.

So far very happy with the results. The Power Stop Z36 are much better than what the prior owner had on the LC. Unlike before, if I hammer on the brakes, the LC will stop very quickly and everything in the cargo bed moves forward

Many here go for the TRD setup or brakes from Australia. Good stuff but above my price range.

Also, you'll need to adjust the hand brake shoes AT THE rear rotor FIRST before adjusting at the hand lever. I followed several online tutorials (including Project 200) but none of them worked for me. I found my own way to do it and it works.

Give yourself extra time for installing and adjusting the hand brake shoes.

 

[CruiserFan88]

Luckily I have a brake shoe tool kit, which does help move those fasteners along. The CJ has drum brakes all the way around, such a PIA come brake time. I believe the FSM references a parking brake bed-in, do you think that is necessary? I'm familiar with the brake in process on the brakes, but due to the car being so heavy and prone to rotor vibrations, i'd hate to screw them up from the get-go, you know? Anyway, glad to hear it was a success. I was getting mixed feelings from reading threads on brake jobs, I felt it was a 50/50 split of success vs complaints/trailing issues and if i had to guess, Toyota probably wants close to $1,000 for a brake job on these vehicles.

I've been following you baseline your Cruiser, keep it up! So far I think i'm keeping pace w/ you. Gives you more confidence attacking projects.

 

[OregonLC]

OE rotors are surprisingly cheap from the discount sites. $55 per side for the fronts if I remember correctly. That is basically chump change for toyota quality and the size of these things.

^^This. I did rears a few months ago and in total, it took maybe an hour to do both sides. New Toyota pads, shims, and rotors. Zero probs on the job and brake function is great. Really hard to beat Toyota quality.

 

[RT Cruiser]

Luckily I have a brake shoe tool kit, which does help move those fasteners along. The CJ has drum brakes all the way around, such a PIA come brake time. I believe the FSM references a parking brake bed-in, do you think that is necessary? I'm familiar with the brake in process on the brakes, but due to the car being so heavy and prone to rotor vibrations, i'd hate to screw them up from the get-go, you know? Anyway, glad to hear it was a success. I was getting mixed feelings from reading threads on brake jobs, I felt it was a 50/50 split of success vs complaints/trailing issues and if i had to guess, Toyota probably wants close to $1,000 for a brake job on these vehicles.

I've been following you baseline your Cruiser, keep it up! So far I think i'm keeping pace w/ you. Gives you more confidence attacking projects.

Hey buddy. I'm assuming you are referring to me. If not, then you can ignore this. I am no brake expert. But if you reading about a bed-in for the parking brake, then you do it. It might have something to do with a tensioner, or parking shoe alignment, or similar. It might have to do with testing the ability of the shoes to hold the vehicle's weight. But I hear you. I have entered many projects with the caution of not making a mistake. Wanna hear a good one? Read this one I encountered a few days ago on the transmission bolts:

Corner bolts on transmission pan need to be tapped. How critical is this?

Hey Everyone. Today, as I was in the process of dropping the transmission pan, two corner bolts snapped and need to be tapped out. A small amount of fluid came out of one corner when I did the refill, about 3 tablespoons. No fluid came from the other corner. After a short 8 mile drive, the LC...

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's what I've accomplished the past two weeks:

• new rotors and pads front and rear
• new hand brake shoes and fasteners
• brake fluid bleed
• stainless steel brake lines
• serpentine belt
• engine oil
• front and rear diff oil
• transfer case oil
• power steering fluid flush
• thermostat/hoses/coolant
• pcv valve
• engine air filter
• cabin air filter
• repairing the cabin filter cover
• dash cams all 4 sides
• transmission fluid and filter
• grease the driveshaft
• new Interstate battery
• wipers
• low and hi headlight bulbs
• spark plugs

If I can do it, I know you can. I'm not a mechanic. I do this because I love it (except when it's frustrating - see post about transmission bolts), it's cheaper if I do it, and for most jobs I know it's done correctly with the right parts

 

[CruiserFan88]

@ RT Cruiser - Awesome good to hear. Looking forward to learning about/discussing more projects as they come.