you can really smell the fuel in the oil if it needs to be change... this is not a "slight head of premium over 30w" smell, it's "this thing smells like it's filled with gas".
Small amounts of gas gets into the oil, it's normal and it's removed through normal PCV operation once the engine has been warmed up*. After all, the way they make gas is by heating crude up to vaporize the gas, then recondense the gas back into a liquid. What's left (depending on the layer in the stack after the crude has been cracked) is either diesel (lighter, top) motor oil (mid level), and bunker fuel (crap on the bottom).... or think of this the other way, you need a certain viscosity to lubricate the bearings - gas does not have this viscosity, but we routinely run 0w-10 in my race cars... so engines can survive for remarkably long times without a huge amount of viscosity.
*a couple other, unrelated points - oil that isn't milky white will, after the engine warms fully up, vaporize then evacuate the water leaving good oil behind... trick here is not to load the motor while the oil isn't up to its full viscosity (minus water). Also, if you're stuck after submerging a vehicle and fill the motor with water.... you can get the water out by either 1) letting it sit - oil rises to the top, pull the drain plug, and put it back in once oil starts coming out; or 2) if you don't want to wait a day or two for that to happen.. drain the mixture, heat it over a fire to evaporate the water and you're back on the trail (this also works with fluids in axles and manual transmissions.... atf, just run it - the water will come out).
and second - the worse thing you can do for a motor is start it, and shut it down repeatedly without fully warming it up... occasionally is fine, but starting a car simply to move it across the garage then shutting it down, then repeating that start/stop a few times will kill a motor faster than you might know.