Jae's '01 LX modification documentation thread (2 Viewers)

[jaewastooshort]

There was a lot of test fitting. I cut the sheet metal and bent the flanges using a thick metal straight edge and body hammer. Pic shows the cut out, before bending the flanges.

I used some 3m double sided body molding tape to adhere the metal to the back of the panel, then screwed it back onto the tailgate. With the door set in place, I drilled and installed the hinge. I still need to do some trimming on the screws I used so they're not a hazard.

Measured for hinge placement and offset from the lip, and drilled for the latch with a 2" hole saw. Filed a bit to smooth out the hole and installed the latch. Everything works well so far, just need to get the extension for the catch installed.

I think I probably spent about 4 hours figuring out what I actually wanted to do and then executing. With a better idea of exactly what I'm doing now, I'm hoping the other side will go a little quicker.

 

[jaewastooshort]

Finished up on the tailgate storage this weekend. Finished lining the tailgate with foam...

Then bonded the metal backing with the ABS face using double sided 3m tape and added some foam strips

Last thing I needed on each side was a spacer for the latch. Used the drops from when I cut the metal backing plates and made some tabs. Secured them with sheet metal screws and adjusted with some slip joint pliers...

 

[jaewastooshort]

Last thing was adding washers and doing minor fine tuning, like clearancing the lid for the sheet metal screws so the lids close properly.

 

[jaewastooshort]

In the last couple of weeks I've replaced the passenger door lock actuator and the plastic trim on the leading edge of the rear quarter windows (75642-60021, 75641-60021)...

A few more big items coming up soon as I finally ordered some Doug Thorley headers to fix the cracked stock manifold, and some minor bits to start tackling the AHC baseline (new Toyota AHC fluid, 08886-01805, data cable f/ tech stream) and setup (once I get my painted Coastal Offroad bumper back on, AHC shock spacers for lift), and a small 12V fridge that I'm going to fit in to a removable platform build. Hopefully I'll get to do some work and show some progress this weekend.

 

[jaewastooshort]

first reading with tech stream on AHS "N" setting: 9.5 and 7.1 MPa-g (no rear bumper on). Gives me a place to start tomorrow.

 

[Foehammer]

In the last couple of weeks I've replaced the passenger door lock actuator and the plastic trim on the leading edge of the rear quarter windows (75642-60021, 75641-60021)...

A few more big items coming up soon as I finally ordered some Doug Thorley headers to fix the cracked stock manifold, and some minor bits to start tackling the AHC baseline (new Toyota AHC fluid, 08886-01805, data cable f/ tech stream) and setup (once I get my painted Coastal Offroad bumper back on, AHC shock spacers for lift), and a small 12V fridge that I'm going to fit in to a removable platform build. Hopefully I'll get to do some work and show some progress this weekend.

Right on. You planning to install the headers yourself? Seems like a major pain on these trucks.

 

[jaewastooshort]

Right on. You planning to install the headers yourself? Seems like a major pain on these trucks.

Yeah, planning to. It's never easy, just really hoping I don't break any hardware off in the head.

 

[jaewastooshort]

~220,000 miles, finally getting around to changing AHC fluid...
10 gradient from high to low, but on high, fluid was also just below the first gradient line on reservoir (right at "low" fluid mark at "N" height)

About 3 cups of fluid total removed... About 2 cups from reservoir

And about another cup from the accumulator

 

[jaewastooshort]

October 20, replaced stock roof rack with a Prinsu rack.

I've been working on getting the trim piece that sits under the grille repaired (broken into 3 pieces), I'll try and get some pics of that tonight. Also finally got in the UCA76 color code paint for the bumpers (finally), so hopefully I'll be able to get those painted pretty soon.

 

[jaewastooshort]

Last week I got my center fill panel repainted after being broken in three pieces.

 

[jaewastooshort]

After making that part look good, I was disappointed with all the chipping on the side fill pieces, so decided I'd do some fresh paint, only to find quite a bit of cracking... Guess I'm redoing the whole thing. Got the cracks opened up and ready for fiberglass reinforcement.

 

[jaewastooshort]

Glad I went ahead and bought the extended rear sway bar links and have them on-hand...

 

[hondatech81]

Nice work!

 

[jaewastooshort]

Didn't end up getting any pictures after snapping the threads on the stock sway bar end links, but got the King KTRS-79 springs installed on the back, along with the SuperPro extended sway links and urethane panhard bushings. About ready to re-check AHC pressures and see what it would take to do a ~1" sensor lift (in terms of additional load compensation). The Slee diff drop and Japan 4x4 spacers are just begging to be installed.

 

[reduc]

Nice work on this! What did you use to repair the cracks in the center fill panel?

 

[jaewastooshort]

Nice work on this! What did you use to repair the cracks in the center fill panel?

I think what I used is Bondo brand, but it's just 2-part fiberglass epoxy and woven mat (much easier to get to lay down flat on the bonding surface than the chop mat stuff). Made sure to clean up the ends of the crack so there was enough space for epoxy to actually get in there, then used painters tape to hold the pieces together and kind of seal around the crack, and filled with epoxy on the visible side. Inside was roughed up and given a coat of epoxy and pieces of fiberglass fabric added with at least enough epoxy to ensure the fabric was saturated. Once the epoxy was cured and the crack was at least nearly filled, I went back over with a high strength body filler to fill the low spots, sanded again, then several rounds of high-build filler primer and wet sanding to get everything smooth before paint.

I guess we'll see how it holds up.

 

[jaewastooshort]

Just to document, over the past few weeks I've installed the subwoofer, replaced the dead Optima battery (223k miles), and installed the roof top tent.

10" powered sub assembly, behind middle row

 

[jaewastooshort]

Well, my whole power steering system literally took a dump in the parking lot at work after trying some of the AT-205 to fix some of the leaks in the rack and I'm now about two weekends into getting the whole thing replaced. New pump, reservoir, pressure lines, and OE steering rack... only I can't get the steering shaft coupler disconnected from the original rack. (Any tips here would be appreciated, I'd rather not pull the full column from inside.)

Now waiting for new tie rod ends as I realized I destroyed the threads and boot trying to get the driver's side disconnected from the knuckle. I will not let this beat me, but I really wish I'd just taken it to a shop to do the swap as my time would be fully worth the money it would cost to have someone else do it at this point. Oh well, live and learn. (I say right before I decide to tackle replacing the factory manifolds for DT headers...)

 

[jaewastooshort]

Holy crap this thing gave me so many problems trying to get the splined joint apart (input shaft on the rack), but finally got it with a flat head screwdriver to pry open the split in the u-joint, quite a bit of PB Blaster, and some heat from a small propane torch. Now to get it all back together...

 

[jaewastooshort]

just for the record, got it all back together and heater tee busted on the test drive. new (OEM) heater tees installed 4/19/25.