J Springs with 295/76/16's

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J Springs with BFG AT 295/75/16's

Well I've had my 850 J and 863 J springs on for about a week, so I decided to post pics and impressions. I like the amount of lift that this combo gives so far. It's exactly what I wanted. I believe it lifted the front and rear from between 4 to 5 inches. I didn't take any pre-measurements but before the lift I had about an inch clearance between the tires and the fender, not I have about 5-6 inches of clearance.

One thing that surprised me a little was I expected the shocks to have a little firmer valving. I think they are ok for now. It's hard to tell exactly since my caster is screwed up.

Speaking of caster, I'm somewhat surprised by the way the truck drives. It actually drives better than I thought it would. This of course is in comparison to my Grand Cherokee (ZJ). Now the ZJ used to tell you where it wanted to go and you just suggested where it should go. In contrast the 80 now suggests where it should go and you tell it where to go. Going straight isn't much of a problem, but turning can be interesting. On sharp turns the truck likes to overdo it and I find myself needed to correct the arc that the truck has chosen to avoid from hitting another car or the curb and people....

Caster correction is definitely in the future but I do find the vehicle drivable with the messed up caster... even on the freeway going 75 or so. I'd also like to point out that I don't have the correction bushings since I didn't see the point considering they aren't enough.

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Also I learned that one way to clear up the mess left from the roof rack is to drive the truck 60% of the way out of the garage and then forget to check if the remaining 40% will clear. This is especially bad if your garage has the remnants of a handle from when the garage did not have an automatic opener. So since the handle made some nice paint crunching grooves in the roof which required to headliner to be removed, I had the body shop weld the holes from the roof rack. Also the rear wing was pushed into the rear door so now that thing is gone as well as it's nutsert holes. :o

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And finally what my truck would look like with bedlinered fender flares...

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Look good, though the pictures make it look like the nose is higher. Get a bullbar. That'll fix it. Then bedline your flares.
 
Yeah the nose looks higher since it's parked on an incline but in reality the back is slightly higher than the front. I need some better pics. Oh and yes a bullbar is in the plans... just need to sell the Tacoma first.
 
Truck looks good.

Few comments.

I hate white letters on tires, then again, that's just me.

Bedliner flares looks great but depends on the product used. I recently saw one that was pure crap, so make sure you don't try to skimp.

Castor makes a huge difference. I tend to cruise on the turnpike doing a good 80+ mph with the 295's on (street BFG AT/KOs) and the front arms I got from Christo allow me to handle curves like well practiced college kid on a date. Truck actually handles better than stock as it currently sits.

Funny thing though, I let the squaw drive it the other morning when it had the swampers on and she came back and told me I needed new tires. I agreed :D
 
I went with the white letters since the tires always come that way and the truck is white. If I had a different color truck the white would probably be on the inside, which kinda looks funny in its own right.

So Junk how much lift do you have in the front? I'm assuming you have some spacers since I was under the impression that Slee's arms would overcorrect my caster for how much lift I have. I'm still looking at my caster correction options.

I'm also still trying to decide on the flare thing... maybe I should wait till they look like hell... of course the rear right flare is starting to bug me...
 
Darwood-

So you welded shut and painted over the holes from your factory roof rack?
 
Byron, I didn't do the welding so much as the body shop did, but yes that's what happened. They also smoothed out the parts of the roof that were pulled up from the roof rack installation.
 
Ditto to what Darwood just did, I finished my J spring install, w/out Castor correction that inacoma helped me get shipped here to AK w/out breaking the bank... He also fab'd up some front/rear sway bar drops, bumpstop drops that I used.... (Thanks again inacoma...)

I'll get pics shortly too, but my impressions of the driving mirror Darwoods....

1st and formost, I'm absolutely AMAZED at the quality of ride with the J-springs.... I was really expecting something MUCH stiffer.... If it settles out and softens a bit that will be nice, but the "quality" of ride is 100x better than the original stock springs.... Not too mention the great look of the lift, the truck finally looks proportional on the meats....

2nd, the "touchyness" while driving, and the problems of the castor correction are noticable (particularly compared to the week I had pre-suspension and post-axle rebuild, I really noticed a smoothness in the steering w/new trunion bearings)... Noticable, but not as bad as I thought it might be... Certainly drivable for the near future, as I'd like to see what Mr. Slee comes up with his bolt on correction???

Its street drivable, but I need to lengthen the brake lines, breathers, and check for other points that might get stressed if using all that articulation....

:)
Cheers!
J.
 
3fj40 said:
What was your cost at the shop for this (roof rack fix)?

Well I decided to go with my insurance to repair the damage. My premium is coming up this month and I decided what the heck. Anyhow since they had to drop the headliner it was $$$. I paid a total of $750 which was $500 from the deductible and $250 to weld up the holes. Without using my insurance it would have been twice this.

3fj40 said:
By ALL means, no matter what put the white walls in You don't want to be advertising for something that you had to pay for.

So I take it you took all the Toyota emblems off of your cruiser? :flipoff2:
 
J,

Maybe we should collectively call Mr. Slee everyday to see when he's going to get his caster correction out. ;)

I'm pretty sure he's tired of me asking by now. :cool:
 
So I can see that the 295/75/16's fit with the J springs pretty well.

But does anyone know if they will fit with just the regular OME heavy duty lift? Or am I just relegated to running 285's.

Or...Start saving for the Slee 6" lift
 
blupaddler said:
So I can see that the 295/75/16's fit with the J springs pretty well.

But does anyone know if they will fit with just the regular OME heavy duty lift? Or am I just relegated to running 285's.

Or...Start saving for the Slee 6" lift

Im running Js with 315 /75/16s without problems with fitment and one day when the wife gets a new Photochop program I'll post the pixs since they are just a little too big a the moment (many MB size)
 
Koffer - email them over if you want and I'll downsize them for you dude. :princess:

Darwood - I'm running J spings and 20mm of OME packers on all 4 :popcorn:

$750 to weld that is :censor: , should have been way less.
 
Guessing at a shop rate of about 40 per hour thats 500 for the deductible and about 250 extra for damage repair, still sounds a little high unless they received no credit for the parts they left off.
Dave
 
I also run the Js. I never felt any steering problems until I rebuilt the front end. Now I'm finding this sensitivity that everyone warned me about. I guess I shouldn't have fixed everything in my front axle. It drove better when it wasn't right. I am running the caster bushings and always have been. So I too now will be interested in what Mr. Slee comes up with.
 
Apparently the expensive part was dropping the headliner. I was told that took over 6 hours. Also I do live in Northern California, everything is expensive here.

The winch will come... someday :doh:
 

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