It's time for a new start. A push button start!

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For a simple install, which is what I'm doing, here is all you need:

+12V Battery
Accessory signal
Ignition signal
Crank signal
Ground
Brake switch (+12V when brake is depressed, 0V or float otherwise) This is optional as well, but I'm installing it. The green-white stripe wire on the brake pedal switch operates the same way. Easy to splice into.

All of the signals, except brake switch signal, can be tapped directly from the current FJ60 ignition switch wiring connector. It's very easy to access on the steering column.

It should be an hour or two to install, depending on the amount of beer you'd like to drink during the event.
 
Here's the picture of the ignition switch. I've labeled all of the wires except for the two marked 'W' in the picture.

Black-Red Stripe: +12V Battery
Black-Yellow Stripe: Ignition signal
Black-White Stripe: Start (Crank) signal
Blue-Red: Accessory signal
Green-White: Key Buzzer
Green-White:

If you ever wanted to know how easy it is to hot wire an FJ60, you just take a screwdriver and touch it to the +12V battery and Start Signal solder pads and voila...just another reason I want to move to a slightly more secure system.
FJ60_ignition_switch.webp
 
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Since I have an older wiring schematic, it doesn't show what the green-white wires are. They have a stamp of 'W' next to them in the picture above. Does anyone know where they go? I think one of them goes to the key buzzer switch. Any ideas?
 
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I took the ignition switch off of the steering column and checked the pinout of the connector. For my setup, I wanted to set it up so that I could give myself the option of putting things back to stock (if I decided I hated the push-button) and also be able to start the truck should there be an electronics failure in the push-button system. The final configuration provides both of those options. I'll be carrying a spare FJ60 ignition switch in my emergency tools kit.
 
Here's a shot of the ignition switch connector wires.

I cut this connector off of my broken ignition switch and reused all of the wires except for the green/white stripe ones. (I don't need the key buzzer if I don't need a key...)
ignition_switch_connector.webp
 
To set up the push-start controller for this truck, I opened the case (4 screws) and moved the jumpers to the optional settings. If the jumper is touching the top two pins, that is the default setup.

Default setup looks like this:
JP1 - Tach Ignition
JP2 - Smart Key Enable
JP3 - Remote Start Enable
JP4 - N/A

My setup looks like this:
JP1 - Optional Tachless Ignition
JP2 - Optional Ground Enable
JP3 - Optional Remote Start Disable
JP4 - Unchanged
 
The 8-pin main harness has 8 wires coming out of it.

I removed two wires from the harness:
Purple - Negative Start
Blue - Ignition 2 (ON 2)

You can leave the two wires in the harness if you don't mind having extra unused wires hanging around. I don't like the extra mess, so I took mine out.

I then hooked up the remaining wires to the ignition switch connector like this:

PUSH START WIRE<----------------------------->FJ60 WIRE
________________________________________________________
WHITE (POSITIVE START)----------------------BLACK/WHITE STRIPE
RED (+12V BATTERY)---------------------------BLACK/RED STRIPE
RED (+12V BATTERY)---------------------------BLACK/RED STRIPE
GREEN (IGNITION 1)----------------------------BLACK/YELLOW STRIPE
YELLOW (ACCESSORY)-------------------------BLUE/RED STRIPE

BLACK (GROUND)-------------------------------GROUND TO A BOLT ON THE BODY
wire_conn.webp
 
The finished connector looked like this:
If you notice there is a red wire that attached. It's an extra +12V Battery wire. I decided that I would wire my truck to the clutch pedal instead of the brake pedal. I realized that I never push the brake pedal when starting my truck, so why would I start now? So, if you're going the route that I lay out here, you don't need the extra red wire. Just follow the setup I have provided.

The white connector goes to the push start controller and the black connector goes to the FJ60. Plug and play.
connector_done.webp
 
So, now for the push-start controller accessory harness. There are 10 wires coming out of this harness. You only need two of them.

These are the necessary ones:
Purple - push start enable
Brown - Brake switch

I removed all of the unneeded wires using a thin metal tip.

Here's the easy part. Wire up the purple (push start enable) wire to ground somewhere on the body of the truck. Wire up the brown (brake switch) signal to one of the two wires coming out of the brake switch. One side is +12V and the other side is floating. Attach the brown wire to the floating side. To test, the floating side should read +12V when brake is pressed.
 
Here's a video on how it works now.

You can cycle through the system: Ready -> ACC -> Ignition On -> Ready -> etc...
When you press the brake (or on my setup, the clutch), you can hold the button down to crank the engine.

To turn off the engine, hold the button down for about two seconds. system goes back to Ready mode.

Here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdQROyKUKI8


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/qdQROyKUKI8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Pretty cool!!

I do have a start button too, installed by the PO. But mine just act like the key...
 
really really cool .. have a question tho .. if you wanna start it fast I mean can be done just pushing it once ..? ( long push ? )
 
really really cool .. have a question tho .. if you wanna start it fast I mean can be done just pushing it once ..? ( long push ? )

Yes!

You don't have to cycle the button to ACC or IGNITION before starting it. I only showed that feature during the video. Typically, I just hop in and long push the button to start!
 
Nice. I've wanted one of these for a while and am definately putting one in when I do the body restore. Thanks for such detailed directions and pictures.
 
The only real concern, if it really is a concern depending on your geographic location is ..would this make it easier to steel the truck? If the button did not have markings on it, it would be really difficult to steel since the thief would not know what to do.
 
CycloSteve, I've had no problems with the system at all since I've had it. I like not having to do anything but put my hand in my pocket and unlock the doors with the keyfob and get in to drive. I don't even have to take the keys out. So, for me, it's great. I don't have to worry about keys getting worn, or replacing key cylinders, etc...

There could be some other features put into the AdvancedKeys system to make it draw less power and for easier wiring, and there may be something in the future, but for now, the basic system is OK. I actually had to wire up some other relays so that the stupid LED wouldn't drain my battery, since it stays on all the time that the system is active.

I've got the system hooked up to an alarm system with door locking actuators and an excellent starter kill setup.

So to answer Rustybucket's question about security...it's one step above the regular security of the truck. Thieves won't be able to stick a screwdriver (or other FJ60 key) into the ignition and turn it to start up.

My truck has additional wiring so that it won't be able to start up with "hotwiring" from the steering column. I felt like adding that extra safety feature for the high school kids that learn the trick from the interweb and want to test it on old cars.
 
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